Hi,

Well guys, after researching, I still haven't found the answer I'm looking for exactly. I have a 96 RS with a b18b. Since this is my daily driver and yet I want more power, I've decided I'd like to go ls/vtec with it.

I intend to do this the "right" way. My motor has 170k miles on it now, but has had one owner before me, and has never been romped on. However, I'd still feel more comfortable rebuilding the bottom end.

So my question : If I were to rebuild my b18b for a ls/vtec, what kind of pistons and rods should I use? Just aftermarket b18b parts or go ahead and use aftermarket pistons/rods for a gsr? If I use the gsr pistons/rods, will it effect my bottom end power? Just curious, before I start spending money on this. Thanks in advance.

 

well, how high do you plan on revving? 8000rpm? your rods are not a problem. i've whitnessed LS rods holding 8500rpm, and i've heard of people still using stock rods at 9000rpm. get ARP rod bolts, though. very important to avoid spinning a rod bearing or three. also, better oil pump (GS-R or CRV one). also the usual rebuild stuff since you've got some miles on the clock. yeah, it gets expensive. then add on the price of the VTEC head, the computer mods for VTEC, and the machine work to make it fit. +$$$.

 

Well, I knew almost all of that. I just need to know. Ls pistons or GSR pistons for ls/vtec if I choose to rebuild? I'd assume ls right, or the aftermarket specs equivalent to ls's.

 

ctr pistons and forged rods should work fine for an ls vtec. and use all oem p72 water/oil pumps and oem honda main,thrust,and rod bearings for the build. and find a reputable machine shop to do this for you. Also invest in a shorter geared trans for your motor set up. either gsr or b16.

 

well, i wouldn't say CTR pistons. they yeild a VERY high compression ratio. for instance, if you used a B16a head, you'd be around 12:1, and a gs-r head would make that even higher. so no, i wouldn't use those unless it's just a race car (read: race gas) or if you don't mind buying 100 octane for driving to work. i'd use ITR pistons. US ones will get you around 10.9:1 and JDM ones would yeild about 11.4:1. the lower c/r would be easier to tune on premium gas, and the higher would be more difficult and probably require 93 octane minimum. even 10.9:1 would be hard on 91 octane. might go with US GS-R pistons for a hair over 10:1 c/r on 91 octane, just to make tuning a bit easier and run safer on it.

oh yeah, and i still say stock rods. shotpeen them if you really want to spend a little money, or get Econo rods. $300 ain't bad, and they'd be bulletproof for your intentions, and hold up under some more stress if you add it later. but stock will do fine if you have no further intentions. in fact, i know a guy with STOCK LS bottom, no mods at all, running 8500rpm ls/vtec PLUS an 85-shot of nitrous, all for the past 6 months. i would NOT recommend this, however. i'm counting days 'til that thing explodes.

 

if you want to make real power out of a frank motor the key is building the block, it is dyno proven. Im running crvtec w/ 11:8 arias w/ eagle rods and a b16a2 head, daily driven...it runs perfect. good prep work on the motor is the key to making these ls/crvtec motors last.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SCHIKANEdc2.0L &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want to make real power out of a frank motor the key is building the block, it is dyno proven. Im running crvtec w/ 11:8 arias w/ eagle rods and a b16a2 head, daily driven...it runs perfect. good prep work on the motor is the key to making these ls/crvtec motors last. </TD></TR></TABLE>
goes for any motor, for that matter. although you won't see a hp gain from rods. just peace of mind. but that's worth the $300 to some people. not me, though.

 

i'm almost done with my LS/Vtec project. here's a list of my parts:

1998 B18B1 Block (honed, hot tanked, and thoroughly inspected)
LS Crank (balanced {pulley to flywheel to withstand up to 11k rpm} and micropolished)
Modified ITR Main, Rod, and Thrust Bearings

LS Stock Rods (modified ARP lock bolts)
B18C5 P73 JDM ITR .25 Pistons
P73 Piston Rings

B16 Head reconditioned w/ a new valve job
ITR Oil and Water pumps
ITR Crank pulley
LS Oil pan, windage tray, and pickup

Hondata Intake Manifold gasket
All brand new OEM gaskets and seals for head and bottom end

The block cleaned with a fresh hone, decked, and bored out .25 for oversized pistons.

As for the ECU, i'm gonna go OBD1 p28 socketed Hondata s200, with a modified harness to get the clean OEM look.

setup cost me around $3200 and i'm installing the motor myself.. so that doesn't include labor for the engine swap.

good luck on what you decide to do.... don't take shortcuts and do it right the first time... you won't regret it!!!

 

How bout using pr3 pistons out of a 1 gen b16?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
goes for any motor, for that matter. although you won't see a hp gain from rods. just peace of mind. but that's worth the $300 to some people. not me, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

build it once, do it right... no half-steppin