The idle is bouncing from 750-1400. In the summer it was not that bad it only did it til it warmed up and then it was good . I thought I could live with it, but since its gotten cooler outside its none stop unless the car is sitting in one spot for a while. Xsi swap b16 obd1. I read all related threads and I have tried every thing. I thought it must be the fitv cus it only does it when its not 100% warmed up. So I screwed the plastic thing all the way in. no luck. So I bought a new one. No luck. I cleaned the iacv and checked it to make sure it worked. No luck. I adjusted the throttle position sensor. Check the coolant level and still no luck. HELP! I would think it has to be the fitv but what the hell man I could not have had two bad ones. Should I replace the iacv maybe the o2 sensor, I don’t want to randomly throw money at this but I have to fix it! How annoying is vrooooorooom, vrooorooom, vroooorooom, vooooroooom, vroooooroooom, vroooooroooom well you get the picture.

 

I got the same problem as you dude except I got the AEBS IM which dosent even use the FITV at all. I too have cleaned my IACV (am getting ready to try another one) and dosent throw any codes. I'dles like your describing all the time.

 

when it gets hot like just before the fans kick in do the bouncing stop?

 

I dont have any fans or anything hooked up at all. Usually it takes about 30 seconds from an initial cold start up for the bouncing to start and it wont stop after that.

 

just an off the wall idea that came to me while reading ur post, try replacing the coolant lines leading to and from your fitv

 

i'll give it a try. wth

 

unplug your TPS sensor and see if that fixes the problem. if so then you need a new one. if your sure thats not the problem then check for vac leaks. thats just the personal experience i have had with that damn vrooooom, vrooooooooooom, vrooooooooooom... i know how you feel man. every time i have fixed it on one of my cars or a friends it has been the tps sensor is bad. your symptoms are all the same. good luck

 

I have the same problem on my D16a6 with Skunk2 mani. It was doin it when i had stock manifold. So i got a new mani, and throttle body and iacv, and it still does it. Stops when I pull the iacv connector. I'm gonna try replacin the map sensor and maybe another ecu, but other than that I have no clue. Doesnt seem to be a vac leak either. With my car it does it from like 1100-1600 when its partially warm, and 800-2100 when its been on the expressway for a while. I'm lost.

 

Here's what I did to fix my car.


(1) Adjust the idle nut on the butterfly valve such that you get close to 750 rpms.
(2) Adjust the air idle screw. This should damping the system, ie no more bouncing tach.
(3) Check and or adjust TPS voltage.

 

If none of the sensors are the problem check for vacuum leaks. I think the best way to check for leaks is to take some carb cleaner and spray it around the intake mani while the engine is running. If there is a leak some of the carb cleaner will be sucked into the engine and it will rev slightly higher.

 

i put in a walbro 255 fuel pump when i did the swap cuz i have a nx wet kit on the car. i didn't replace the fuel pressure regulator cuz i thought the stock pressure should be fine. do you think that could have any thing to do with it?

 

its very hard to tell if you have a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner when the idle is already bouncing especially with a loud exhaust system. Can the IACV valve still be bad and the ECU NOT throw a code for it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its very hard to tell if you have a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner when the idle is already bouncing especially with a loud exhaust system. Can the IACV valve still be bad and the ECU NOT throw a code for it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what i wanna know, cus 90% of the cases where ppl have bad idles, theres no code, but the problem stops when the iacv is disconnected. I've tried swappin iacvs and it does the same thing, thats why i think its computer related, or maybe the map sensor or some other random sensor.

 

its not the ecu i already tryed that.

 

my iacv went bad and never threw a code on my b18

 

FITV is on the throttle body, depending on what TB you are using. They are on 92-95 OBD1 I beleive. The only way to really clean the IACV is take it off, spray carb cleaner through the valve itself, not the coolant spots, the screens, try to clean them out. If that dont work take it to a shop, they will figure it out,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CimorelliCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If that dont work take it to a shop, they will figure it out, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont ever speak such Blasphemy! I'll fgure this out eventually.
I'm usin a 92-93 integra throttle body btw so the fitv isnt on the throttle body.

 

i just had the same problem eith my swap. i had a vaccume hose that was large in diameter that went from the frount of my intake manifold to the top of the intake mani. it is larger than the hose that goes to your map sensor. pinck that hose off and see if your idle goes down like it should be. also if thats not it then unbolt your iacv. after you have unbolted it then cover the holes with your hands. make sure that you leave the hoses hooked up and the wires pluged in. if it still does it then you know that its not the iavc. also have you tried to mess with the idle mixture screw? it is brass and on the throttle body. it takes a flat head screw driver to turn it. if all these fail then get a can of compressed lighter fluid and spray all the way around every joint on the throttle body. if the idle raises when you spray in a certain area then you have found your leak. good luck. these problems are a bitch and i hope my information is usefull

 

have you adjusted the idle properly? thats all it sounds like is wrong if you cant find any vacuum leaks.


start the car up. unplug the iacv (the idle should raise slightly) then set the idle down to 750ish, then replug in the iacv. If the idle isnt quite where you want it just unplug the iacv again and set it to the right idle point. then turn the car off and reset the ecu. mine did the same exact thing when i first did my swap till i adjusted my idle this way

 

Usually when i pull that plug, it runs for a few seconds then dies before i have a chance to adjust it to where i want. Another reason I'm sure its not a vacuum leak because it would still be gettin the air it needs if it was.

 

I would suggest setting the base idle first as it has been the cause of 4 of the 5 bouncing idle problems i have encountered.


Warm the car up to operating temperature. Disconnect the IACV. Using the idle set screw (above and to the rear of the TB opening) adjust the base idle to 700-750 RPM. If the base idle has never been changed the recees when the screw is loacted will be filled with wax. Dig our the wax and adjust. Out = increase in idle spped. in = decease speed. After setting it reconnect the IACV. It should settle to 700-800 RPM.

 

dude i had the same issue as you, i cleaned the FITV with carb cleaner and tightened that thing inside of it and it went away, but you may have a slight leak in your manifold gaskets or something.

all these suggestions made are decent, but what you should really do is look at this guy bens idle troubleshooting guide, its very in depth, im looking for the link now.

 

one thing you didnt mention, have you tried fully flushing your collant system, and then fully bleeding it once you refill with fresh coolant?

heres that link i promised:

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php