CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP...
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CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP...
well after i swapped in my rebuilt D16z6 after some turbo fun @ 9psi and frying my rings, i now am the proud owner of a crap idle. it idled fine just a month ago before i took it out. it cranks up fine and idles up to around 2k rpm cuz its cold. it does go down after warm up, however when i try to back it up to get it outta the garage to let the smoke go outside, it starts revving up and down up and down between 1-2k rpm. ive bled the coolant twice now and let it run out with no bubbles then tightened it back down. as soon as i hit the gas, thats when the crap idle starts. a friend told me something about turning the heater on full blast after filling coolant. wat does this do?? help me out. this is my only problem and then im ready to roll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#3
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (boostin4drcivic)
try this:
1. start car
2. unplug throttle position sensor
3. turn idle down 1/4 turn
4. plug tps back in
5. shut off car
6. re-start
I had bullshit idle after my b16a3 swap and I tried burping the coolant twice and it didn't work after i did this it went away, never to return. if it doesn't work try again, I don't know if it will work 4 you, just a suggestion...
1. start car
2. unplug throttle position sensor
3. turn idle down 1/4 turn
4. plug tps back in
5. shut off car
6. re-start
I had bullshit idle after my b16a3 swap and I tried burping the coolant twice and it didn't work after i did this it went away, never to return. if it doesn't work try again, I don't know if it will work 4 you, just a suggestion...
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (B16EG)
when you turn on the heat on full blast the heater core will ciculate the coolant into the heater core, so that way you take out bubbles from the entire system. so it will work a lot better.
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (chameleon)
check for vaccum leaks. I had a harsh idle after i replaced my headgasket. It turns out i needed a new Intake manifold gasket too... was a vaccum leak making my idle surge.
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (chameleon)
so should i just turn the bleed screw again and fill the radiator neck until it flows outta the bleed area, then tighten down bolt after steady stream runs out (for the 3rd time), then crank with the heater on full blast and let it idle for awhile??
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (kKdARIAN)
i would think it was a vacuum leak but i checked all hoses again last night and ive replaced every gasket possible during rebuild....intake mani, vtec solenoid, head gasket, valve cover gasket, etc etc.
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#9
Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (boostin4drcivic)
I had a similar idle problem, I tried all the coolant tricks and none of those worked. I pulled the intake off the car and fired it up. While looking in the throttle body, there is a hole for a vaccum, I believe at a '7 o'clock' position on the inside of the throttle body, before the butterfly. If I cover that vacuum port with anything, the idle returned to normal. As to what sensor uses that vacuum, and isnt reading correctly I do not know. Maybe someone more knowledgeable here can tell us what that is.
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (hoody1982)
all my ignition stuff is new. man i tried ******* with the idle air control valve, idle adjusting screw, and coolant and nothing worked. another problem after i played around with everything again and actually drove it for like 5 mins is i have smoke coming from radiator. theres no leaks though. i dunno if its just spilled coolant burning off, but it appears to be more than im comfortable with. the lower hose is heating up so coolant is flowing. the cooling fan never came on not once. i dunno if its because its cold outside or what. i had the heat on, i had the air on. nothing can get that fan to kick on. should i be worried about this?? when i got back to the garage, the idle slowed down some and stopped breifly, then started up and down again, but this time very slowly. man i cant figure this **** out. HELP!!!!!!!!!
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (yogi206)
yea it the d16z6. ya its jumping exactly between 1k and 2k and seemed to start slowing down after the 5 min drive or so and the idle went lower. its not the headgasket either cuz i just got a new one during the rebuild and my friend who's a mechanic at honda put it on and torqued all the head bolts for me. well anyway, then i parked after the short drive and just as the jumping started slowing down and idle was getting low, it started jumping again between 1k and 2k. my spark plugs are brand new. they are heat range 7's tho cuz thats all i had left were the ones i was using when i was turbo. that shouldnt deal with the coolant and radiator problems tho. HELP!!!!!!!! oh yea, on a side not, when i was dealing with the coolant and trying to burp it, should i have left the radiator cap off?? i always had the cap on after i filled the neck. lemme know....
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Re: CRAP IDLE AFTER SWAP... (boostin4drcivic)
check your fast idle valve. its located on the back of your throttle body. someone earlier in the post mentioned if you take off the intake and the little hole inside the t-body, well that goes to the fast idle valve.
its a half dollar sized plate held on by two 8mm bolts. take them off and remove the plate. inside there is a spring loaded vacuum plunger. place you thumb or finger over it while the motor is surging and press it in to close off all vacuum. if the idle drops back to normal, you found your problem. you will need to screw the plunger back down tight. there is a washer around it with a little slot on either side. get a stubby flat head screwdriver and take your time and screw it down. its a bit of a PITA.
this happened to me a few times on my b18c1 and my old z6. hope this helps you out. beside vacuum leaks i cant imagine it being anything else.
its a half dollar sized plate held on by two 8mm bolts. take them off and remove the plate. inside there is a spring loaded vacuum plunger. place you thumb or finger over it while the motor is surging and press it in to close off all vacuum. if the idle drops back to normal, you found your problem. you will need to screw the plunger back down tight. there is a washer around it with a little slot on either side. get a stubby flat head screwdriver and take your time and screw it down. its a bit of a PITA.
this happened to me a few times on my b18c1 and my old z6. hope this helps you out. beside vacuum leaks i cant imagine it being anything else.
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