JDM 4-1 Requirements
Well I was bored the other day so I bought a cheap Megan header for my DC2. It's the JDM style 4-1 with a 2.5 collector and all. Not bad in my opinion for $160 shipped. Here's a couple pics.


My question is what would I need to throw this on and fully bolt up? The car's a 2000 DC2 with T1R b-pipe ran to a Spoon N1. Right now I have the stock cat. Would I just need a cat/test pipe that's 2.5 and a donut gasket? I heard that all I'd need was the header gasket from an S2000, being it's 2.5 just like JDM ITR.
However since this is a copy and not the OEM JDM 4-1, would I still use that gasket? Anything I'm missing or misunderstanding here?


My question is what would I need to throw this on and fully bolt up? The car's a 2000 DC2 with T1R b-pipe ran to a Spoon N1. Right now I have the stock cat. Would I just need a cat/test pipe that's 2.5 and a donut gasket? I heard that all I'd need was the header gasket from an S2000, being it's 2.5 just like JDM ITR.
However since this is a copy and not the OEM JDM 4-1, would I still use that gasket? Anything I'm missing or misunderstanding here?
^ Yes it will bolt up to the block. The thing in question here though is how to connect it to my exhaust. Being of course it's different from my stock manifold down where it connects to the cat etc.
Not true. The construction on the OEM Type R is much better. Alot of people had made some serious power with the OEM Type R header. There are alot of headers that make WAY more power but for the money, consturction and fitment. There's nothing better than the OEM piece hands down. Plus you get heatshield and OEM discreet'ness!
Either way, Ive personally inspected some of these Megan header and they are I must say worth every penny. Not a bad buy at all.
Either way, Ive personally inspected some of these Megan header and they are I must say worth every penny. Not a bad buy at all.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gatecrasher21AF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My question is what would I need to throw this on and fully bolt up? The car's a 2000 DC2 with T1R b-pipe ran to a Spoon N1. Right now I have the stock cat. Would I just need a cat/test pipe that's 2.5 and a donut gasket? I heard that all I'd need was the header gasket from an S2000, being it's 2.5 just like JDM ITR.
However since this is a copy and not the OEM JDM 4-1, would I still use that gasket? Anything I'm missing or misunderstanding here?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you'll need a 2.5" cat or test pipe, and the 2.5" ID donut gasket for the installation. I always suggest contacting SMSP for parts such as these.
However since this is a copy and not the OEM JDM 4-1, would I still use that gasket? Anything I'm missing or misunderstanding here?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, you'll need a 2.5" cat or test pipe, and the 2.5" ID donut gasket for the installation. I always suggest contacting SMSP for parts such as these.
you will need a 2.5 donut for the the header and you will have to get a test pipe or high flow car made to fit... Since it's a Itr copy it might be a little longer then your gsr one. I think the 00-01 gsr header are the same size as the itr one but the older gsr are shorter..... You might have to install the header and measure the gap
I used the S2K donut gasket on my JDM 4-1 when I installed it. I don't k now how well it would work on the Megan, but I would try it. It cost me $23 from Honda. You most likely will have to order it. Take the car to a muffler shop...open header...and have them put on a cat, or just pay extra to have them put on the header. Make sure that they have the right ******* flange to mate up to your exhaust too!!! My cat is welded to my HKS's flange...not nice.
Ok I want to get this straight before I make any purchases...
I just need the 2.5 donut gasket and a 2.5 inch cat or test pipe? Would I need the flange too? I have a T1R b-pipe which is running from my stock cat (2 1/4?) and stock header. Yes my car's a 2000 GS-R.
I just need the 2.5 donut gasket and a 2.5 inch cat or test pipe? Would I need the flange too? I have a T1R b-pipe which is running from my stock cat (2 1/4?) and stock header. Yes my car's a 2000 GS-R.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gatecrasher21AF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I want to get this straight before I make any purchases...
I just need the 2.5 donut gasket and a 2.5 inch cat or test pipe? Would I need the flange too? I have a T1R b-pipe which is running from my stock cat (2 1/4?) and stock header. Yes my car's a 2000 GS-R.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I mentioned the 2.5" cat, I was referring to one of the pre-built bolt on varieties. If you're just buying the universal cat, then yes, you will also need the flanges, an O2 bung (if you're still OBD-2) and someone to weld it all together for you. A simpler option would be to purchase the bolt on cat from a fabricator such as SMSP, and he could send you the necessary gaskets and hardware at the same time.
I just need the 2.5 donut gasket and a 2.5 inch cat or test pipe? Would I need the flange too? I have a T1R b-pipe which is running from my stock cat (2 1/4?) and stock header. Yes my car's a 2000 GS-R.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I mentioned the 2.5" cat, I was referring to one of the pre-built bolt on varieties. If you're just buying the universal cat, then yes, you will also need the flanges, an O2 bung (if you're still OBD-2) and someone to weld it all together for you. A simpler option would be to purchase the bolt on cat from a fabricator such as SMSP, and he could send you the necessary gaskets and hardware at the same time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrnsferErr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where do u get these megan headers? do they make good power?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://meganracing.com/ they make good power for the money , i have a dynamic autosports header and it is real similar to the megan racing, actually it looks the exact same, but it makes nice power.
http://meganracing.com/ they make good power for the money , i have a dynamic autosports header and it is real similar to the megan racing, actually it looks the exact same, but it makes nice power.
the megan racing piece fits just as good , and is cheaper then the oem piece, it also looks alot nicer. I know the oem piece makes nice power, but i am just saying for the money the megan racing is the way to go.
Ive been seriously considering buying one. I honestly think this might be the sleeper hit of the value headers. Just buy looking at its setup you can tell it will put down better numbers than those ITR copies going around for $200 and the welds are in a quality of the $500 plus header range. A year ago I wouldnt even think twice about putting this unknown multi car part manufacturers header on my car. I simply WOULD NOT do it. After Buddy Club coming out of no where and now OBX putting out some unbeatably priced and manufactured parts, I really don't care who makes it anymore.
NO. Buddy Club was a big hit in Japan for rims and accessories. They didnt start making a name in the internal component department until the original Buddy Club Spec III cam out and that goes for JPN and US markets.
I finally got the header on. I ended up going with SMSP test pipe. It sounds so mean now with the Spoon N1. Top end is very nice on the highway compared to the stock 4-2-1. When I took it off it looked like a pea shooter compared to the 2.5 outlet.
Megan gets a
from me. I was looking for a cheap header, and I got it. However it surely performs. I'll try and get some pics soon. I reccommend it though for anyone looking to get a nice kick without spending too much.
Megan gets a
from me. I was looking for a cheap header, and I got it. However it surely performs. I'll try and get some pics soon. I reccommend it though for anyone looking to get a nice kick without spending too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, you'll need a 2.5" cat or test pipe, and the 2.5" ID donut gasket for the installation. I always suggest contacting SMSP for parts such as these. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I did. You can figure out how long you want your cat/testpipe to be by taking somebodys word for it or installing it and measuring, but I just PMed SMSP, told him my setup and he welded up one of the high-flow spun bodied cats for me. Its a little pricey (Almost $200 with gaskets and bolts) but it looked like a quality peice, fit perfect and its been proven to flow the most on a flowbench compared with carsound and others.
*Edit*.... didnt see you got it on already
Yes, you'll need a 2.5" cat or test pipe, and the 2.5" ID donut gasket for the installation. I always suggest contacting SMSP for parts such as these. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I did. You can figure out how long you want your cat/testpipe to be by taking somebodys word for it or installing it and measuring, but I just PMed SMSP, told him my setup and he welded up one of the high-flow spun bodied cats for me. Its a little pricey (Almost $200 with gaskets and bolts) but it looked like a quality peice, fit perfect and its been proven to flow the most on a flowbench compared with carsound and others.
*Edit*.... didnt see you got it on already
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