I am degreeing a set of Spec III Pluses. I assumed the degree specss where with Valve Lift of 0.010” as it was not mentioned on the cam card. I have dialed in the Intake and Exhaust cam openings to the degree, but the FULL LIFT (F/L) and the CLOSING are OFF on both intake and exhaust.

Here are results:

BC SPEC ACTUAL (@ .010”) ACTUAL (@ 0”)
IN OPEN 25BTDC 25 34
IN CLOSE 45ABDC 66 85
IN F/L 100ATDC 116 -
EX OPEN 45BBDC 45 50
EX CLOSE 32ATDC 24 29
EX F/L 102.5BTDC 99 -


Please advise. Valve Lift was measured from top of the retainer. Should I be concerned. Just doesn't make sense to me.

 

Subscribing to thread.

 

how does the car idle?

 

subscribing

place that did mine and now another where friends were done had real hard time gettin our timing/installation correct here in u.k

 

I do believe that Buddy Club takes their measurements at some metric measurement as opposed to .010. I could be dead wrong, but if not, it would explain some of the differences.

 

Yeah most take opening at .039 or .049 if I remember correctly

 

I thought about them using a different lift measurement for open and close, but the F/L would be the same and the intake and exhaust only had to be retarded (or maybe it was advanced, I'll have to look again) 2.5 and 2 degrees respectively to degree them. All the timing marks on the gears and crank line up beautifully, so even without degreeing they look good.

The motor is not in the car. I am simply rebuilding the longblock, as I paid someone else for R&R, as I simply do not have time for the labor with a family.

 

The opening and closing angles are probably at 1mm (.039") like most other Japanese cam makers specify.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The opening and closing angles are probably at 1mm (.039") like most other Japanese cam makers specify.</TD></TR></TABLE>

echo echo echo...lol

 

Mic check check....I'm sorry I can't hear you.

 

Look at the numbers I am getting though. Even if they do use 1mm which is approximately .039" The exhaust cam duration is already checking less than spec at 0.010", if I measure at 0.039", the duration will be even less, with the closing further out of spec.

The Intake may work out, as its duration seems to be check high, but the F/L is way off, and that doesn't matter with regard to measure lift at open and close.

I am going to set up for some more degreeing an experiement with trying to dial in specs assuming 1mm, and see what turns up. Still waiting on a response from BuddyClub USA. I can believe they do not have a address or phone available.

 

Well the spec sheet on the buddy 4's was wrong.. We called them and told them that...So I guess its possible that the 3+ was wrong also..I'll pm you buddys #

the ex closing is wron on the 4's I beleive

 

Are you running 0 lash btw?

 

I set lash per BC specs 8 and 9 thousanths for intake and exhaust respectively I believe. Whatevery it is on the BC spec sheet. I may just forget about degreeing the cams. I was simply trying to avoid cutting my valve cover. I wanted to dial in the gears and call it a day and just worry about tuning the fuel curves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running 0 lash btw?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see where you are going with the 0 lash, but I figured they gave the spec sheet for degreeing in cams. Its probably safer for me to just dial them in to 0,0 and tune them on a dyno. Maybe someone will have a cut valve cover I can borrow for a bit.

 

This was my first time degreeing cams. Couple that with the crappy spec sheet provided by BuddyClub, and you have a recipe for errors. Hind sight I realize I made some errors, such as one I should have set the lash to 0. Not to mention BC spec's are in 1mm valve lift (ie. 0.039") but you wouldn't know that from the spec sheet.

I guess you could set lash, but simply subtract that from your valve lift. Such as if lash is .008" and you are supposed to measure lift at .039", then you would check degree at .031" if that lash was .008".

I simply resychronized the cams and crank, and zero'ed the gears, and buttoned up the long block. Its going back the to my "installer" today, if weather allows. I will try and post up some pics.

Brand spanking new OE B17 shortblock (thank you Roger Foo) Stage 2 P&P B16 Head by GTP, Head shaved .020", Omni springs, retainers and flat bottom valves with the obvious BC III+ cams. I could not get accurate "volumetric differences" in the valves from OMNI USA (not happy with there poor product support), so my CR is only an estimate at approximately 10.8:1-10.9:1. Goal is for 170whp with the nice dense Houston air.




Modified by BryanPendleton at 9:02 AM 2/24/2005

 

Please set the lash to .000" before checking your cams. Because of the nature of a "slider" type rocker pad, and the multiplication through the ratio, you can't just subtract the lash from your lift measurements. Also, on cams with more/ less aggressive flat sides, the measurements may vary slightly depending on the diameter of the grinding wheel compared to the master diameter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutotechRD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please set the lash to .000" before checking your cams. Because of the nature of a "slider" type rocker pad, and the multiplication through the ratio, you can't just subtract the lash from your lift measurements. Also, on cams with more/ less aggressive flat sides, the measurements may vary slightly depending on the diameter of the grinding wheel compared to the master diameter.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotcha, thanks for the advice.