In the first pic, I would basically like to know which way coolant is flowing. Into the water pipe, or out of it?


In this second pic, I would like to know if its possible to bypass coolant flow through the IAC <u>and</u> TB, not just the TB? Reason I ask is because I have installed the Outlaw Engineering spacer and gasket kit and this would seem to maximize cooling. It comes with a spacer and gaskets for the TB, IM, and IAC. They also provide longer studs and bolts. However, they even provide a coupler that can be used to attach the two coolant hoses that go into the TB to help keep it cooler. I know that is possible, but would it also be possible to bypass the IAC as well by connecting the two ends in the pic below?? If you follow the coolant route, these are all on the same path. Or does the IAC need coolant flow for its sensor to work correctly? It sounds too easy so there must be a catch. Another note, they say in the kit that bypassing the TB can sometimes cause it to freeze during extended driving in cold weather. Anyone had a problem with that before??

 

I'm 90% sure the IAC needs coolant to function properly, but I have been wrong in the past. You could always just try bypassing and watch what happens. It won't damage it if its bypasses properly.

Oh and I don't think it matters which way the coolant is flowing, but you can bypass it like you have shown in the pic.

 

you can actually weld up and cap off the iac and the port off the rear water pipe. JDM_JON here on HT has done it along with capping off the water valve and taking the nozzle out of the side of the cylinder head and replacing it with a screw in plug. This way the only hoses you have are the upper and lower rad hoses, coolant hoses from the oil cooler, and t-stat housing. PM him and see if he can send you some pics.

 

anyone else? the only thing im really worried about is if it will affect the operation of the IAC. since I havent put on the TB yet, Id like to hear some more opinions. I sent JDM JON a pm...thanks

 

bueller...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone else? the only thing im really worried about is if it will affect the operation of the IAC. since I havent put on the TB yet, Id like to hear some more opinions. I sent JDM JON a pm...thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I'd say it's a mistake to bypass the IAC and the TB, especially in the frigid NY temperatures.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the first pic, I would basically like to know which way coolant is flowing. Into the water pipe, or out of it?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Water is going from head to waterpipe to waterpump. So, it's the red direction.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In this second pic, I would like to know if its possible to bypass coolant flow through the IAC <u>and</u> TB, not just the TB? Reason I ask is because I have installed the Outlaw Engineering spacer and gasket kit and this would seem to maximize cooling. It comes with a spacer and gaskets for the TB, IM, and IAC. They also provide longer studs and bolts. However, they even provide a coupler that can be used to attach the two coolant hoses that go into the TB to help keep it cooler. I know that is possible, but would it also be possible to bypass the IAC as well by connecting the two ends in the pic below?? If you follow the coolant route, these are all on the same path. Or does the IAC need coolant flow for its sensor to work correctly? It sounds too easy so there must be a catch. Another note, they say in the kit that bypassing the TB can sometimes cause it to freeze during extended driving in cold weather. Anyone had a problem with that before??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did this bypass -&gt; where the red arrows are pointing at. It's not a problem if the ambient temp. doesn't get far below freezing. The coolant in the TB and IACV is for preventing them from freezing and getting stuck.
But you don't have to connect them together. You can just block these 2 connections.

 

I bet it wouldn't cause too much of a problem in 50* plus weather but anything below that and your going to get an idle surge. The IAC needs the coolant at the very least so it won't freeze. I would try it though. I worked on a set of ITB's that didn't have the IAC and the car had big cams, and in around 45* weather the idle was dead steady. I would just do it and try it, it will only take you 5 minutes to revert back to using the IAC.

 

nice, yeah I think Ill just plug those two connections and be done with it and see what happens. Car wont be driven in that type of weather much so it should be all gravy

 

I did this in my EG and it has a HARDCORE surging problem before it's warmed up. Well, at least I think that's the problem .

 

surging as in fluctuating idle up and down? If so I had a similar problem before and it turned out to be a sliced PCV hose.

 

Brand new PCV valve/hose. It goes away after the car has been driving for about 15 min, but is annoying as hell if you're in traffic.

 

Ill keep an eye out for that then thanks

 

Shame on me. It ended up being my IAC screwing my idle. It only surges for maybe the first few min of startup. I'll be soon bypassing the one on my R now also.

 

Like has been said, IAC only works until the engine is warmed up. If you can deal with poor/surging idle for a few mins then take it out. I don't have a problem with it bypassed, but I'm not driving in the middle of winter either.

 

hmmmm well I started up my car tonight for the first time after installing the new block. It idles just fine so far with no hint of surging. I havent taken it out to drive it yet but I did let it idle up to operating temp and there doesnt even seem to be a bobble in the idle. After I adjusted base timing, it seems even more smooth. Ill get a better test info when I take it out tomorow.

 

.... so hows it runing???

 

beautiful...no problems AT ALL with surging idle. idles like stock when cold and warmed up. I did have a few instances where the TB froze and wouldnt close all the way and would idle around 1500 but that was only when driving under freezing for extended highway miles. no problems as far as driving.

 

what was the temp when it froze and wind chill?

 

ummm it was brick out.

 

Mine has been bypassed for over a year......no problems yet!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm it was brick out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont get it

 

When you are taling about this being a bad idea in really cold weather, how cold are we talking about?

 

around freezing