wheel bearing install, toyota
yeah yeah I realize it's a honda board, but you guys are much smarter over here.. here's the deal
my wheel bearing is shot, I took it apart and all the ***** just came pouring out, the side covers on the bearing were completely snapped in half blah blah. Getting to the point, I bought a new bearing and took out MOST of the old one, but there is still the top part of the bearing (race) in there which seems to be engraved into the knuckle. I can't get this part out if I tried, so what I did was I removed the top peice of the new bearing and kinda rigged it to work, well obviously it didn't.. the **** is wobbling around again. Any ideas on how to get it working? I know a lot of people are going to say to use a wheel bearing remover and to have it pressed in there, physically it's not going to slide in there/press in there
car is a 91 toyota celica ST
Modified by Steve90HB at 8:34 PM 2/15/2005
my wheel bearing is shot, I took it apart and all the ***** just came pouring out, the side covers on the bearing were completely snapped in half blah blah. Getting to the point, I bought a new bearing and took out MOST of the old one, but there is still the top part of the bearing (race) in there which seems to be engraved into the knuckle. I can't get this part out if I tried, so what I did was I removed the top peice of the new bearing and kinda rigged it to work, well obviously it didn't.. the **** is wobbling around again. Any ideas on how to get it working? I know a lot of people are going to say to use a wheel bearing remover and to have it pressed in there, physically it's not going to slide in there/press in there
car is a 91 toyota celica ST
Modified by Steve90HB at 8:34 PM 2/15/2005
I bet you have to get the rest of the old bearing out of the knuckle. What about a snap-ring that's partly hidden?
Not only that, you may have destroyed the new bearing by taking it apart...
Not only that, you may have destroyed the new bearing by taking it apart...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bet you have to get the rest of the old bearing out of the knuckle. What about a snap-ring that's partly hidden?
Not only that, you may have destroyed the new bearing by taking it apart...</TD></TR></TABLE>
how would this destroy it? and I don't see a snap ring.. but the install does show there is one, maybe that's my problem?
Not only that, you may have destroyed the new bearing by taking it apart...</TD></TR></TABLE>
how would this destroy it? and I don't see a snap ring.. but the install does show there is one, maybe that's my problem?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve90HB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would this destroy it?</TD></TR></TABLE>It usually does when you pull one race or cone out of the bearing. For example when you press the hub out from a Honda bearing, IF one cone comes out with the hub the bearing's shot. If you press it back together it usually won't go back together right. Even if it does, it'll only work for a little while.
I guess the toyota bearings are much different, because the cones on these bearings practically fall out of the bearing as it is. I had to order a new hub, I just recently realized the inner walls on the hub were completely worn out and engraved more than likely causing this looseness
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for less than $25 you could have had it done right with a press at a machine shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if this doesn't work I will have it done, a bearing is only $30 - not like it's some huge loss
if this doesn't work I will have it done, a bearing is only $30 - not like it's some huge loss
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