I looked at a few clutch installations and most of them said to pull out the engine.
Is it really necessary to pull it out?

It should be fairly easy as i thought, if the right wheel/hub and axle are taken off and then the transmission.

I've had an auto tranny off and then had to put it back on before and it was rwd, fwd should be pretty easy shouldn't it?

Anyone do the install without taking out the engine?

 

Yes, it's perfectly possible to do a clutch and flywheel installation without pulling the engine. It's a bit time consuming and you'll be better off if you have someone to help out, but it's nothing terribly difficult.

 

you don't have to remove the engine, just axles and tire, jackyour car up as high as your jack can go and get ready to bench press your tranny.....

 

both time I had my clutch replaced, the motor stayed in. They had a lift though.

 

Yes it is possible. Having a lift to support the engine can make the work area a lil crowded. I use to good size jacks. One for the block, and one to drop the tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chero112 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't have to remove the engine, just axles and tire, jackyour car up as high as your jack can go and get ready to bench press your tranny.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

speaks of experience.

 

I will have a write up with pics on this on monday, but as for some quick directions that I will use in the write up here ya go.

Tools needed:
One metric socket set
One metric 1/2in drive deep socket set - double for impact sockets
Tourque wrenches(dunno size off the top of my head, this is for the flywheel bolts)
Socket extensions
Impact wrench(Makes life easier)
box end metric wrench set
Pry bar
32mm socket for the nut holding the axle to the brake rotor
A bucket
A funnel with a small hose on the end of it
Mini sledge
torque wrench

Standard things: remove ground wire from batery and ure intake, remove the airbox too if you have one, it will be in the way.

1. Remove both wheels, and raise the car up as high as possible( Your going to need enough space to get the tranny and your self out from under the car.
2. Drain the tranny of its oil (1/2in drive socket is required for this)
3. Remove the 32mm axle nuts
4. Remove the nut holding the front lca to the bottom of the rotor assembly on the passenger side.
5. insert pry bar into the bottom of the ball joint and hit the back of it with the hammer until the lca is seperated from the joint.
6. Remove both upper and lower bolts holding the front wishbone onto the shock and lca.
7. At this time the passenger side rotor should be movable, pull the axle hub out of it, and turn it to the side.
8. carefully remove the passenger side axle, and slide it outwards, pull down on the lca and get the axle out from under the car.
9. take the axle nut out of the drivers side rotor.
10. Repeat steps 4-6 for the passenger side.
11. You will have noticed by now that there is a half shaft on the drivers side, there are 3 bolts that hold the bracket for the half shaft to the block. Take your 14mm socket and remove them.
12. slide the axle and the half shaft out of the tranny and out from under the car.
13. remove the following, self explanitory, are over thre tranny, and all are 10mm: the ac line bracket, and the 10mm bolts holding the solid clutch line to the tranny on various brackets.
14. remove the clutch slave cylinder, the two bolts holding it in are easier to get at from the bottom of the car.
15. Remove the two bolts holding the starter to the tranny, and remove the nut holding the 4gauge wire to the starter, as well as the starter signal wire.
16. Unclip the vehical speed sensor clip from the back of the tranny(there is only one clip plugged into the tranny, can't miss it)
17. Place a jack with a block on it under the oil pan, and jack it up until the motor is raised about 1cm
17. remove the two 14mm bolts holding the torque mount to the cassis on the bottom of the car.
18. Remove the passenger side engine mount(one bolt and two nuts hold it to the tranny, and one long bolt hold the innner part of the mount to its bracket)
19. Start removing the bolts holding the tranny to the block(17mm and 19mm)
20. with all the bolts removed you should be able to wiggle the tranny off of the block. I would suggest getting some help with this part since the tranny weighs 97lbs and has a tendancy to crush fingers.
21. With the tranny off you can get to the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, these are 14mm and I would removed them in a star pattern working from opposite corners.
22. When ure done, the clutch should fall away from the pressure plate and flywheel.
23. There should be a set of 6 torque bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft, remove these in a star pattern.
24. Replace the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. Be sure to use a torque wrench on the flywheel bolts, I can't remember the ammount off the top of my head.
25. Useing the clutch centering tool(if you have it, I use a screw driver and my eyeball) center the clutch.
26. Put the tranny back on the motor(This can be easy or it can be a bitch, you basically have to stab at the block with the spline on the tranny.
27. Repeat steps 19-1 in reverse order with the exception to step 15 and 16, do them last.

That is the rough draft to my writeup, when I actually do this on monday I will have pics and probably more detailed directions

 

I just replaced my first clutch last month on my 97gsr and with a lil help i did the whole thing in 5 hrs including the time the flywheel was in the shop. And i did not take the moter out, only thing i have to recomend is dont get to carryed away with trying to get the trany off the block and drop it...Thats a good way to break the housing... I would recomend having someone under the car with it in their hands waiting for it to drop as someone on top works it off, once it is off you can just set it down and slide on out

 

Very good info, thanks for the write-up too Geno, my car died the other day and I'm still waiting to get it back. I didn't feel like dealing with it at the time, the guy has a lift so i maybe i could even get it all switched at his garage.

 

Yeah, you don't have to remove the motor. Team-Integra has good instructions with photos on their article page. One thing I did to help get the tranny out of th way was roll it out on an old appliance roller (a square piece of wood with wheels on the bottom) I thought about using my old skateboard, but I didn't want to see it crack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-CeReaL#4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

speaks of experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you got to work with what you have!