b18c vs ls/vtec pros and cons
hey guys what are the pros and cons of each engine. i want to install one of them and can get a B18C with a tranny for 2 grand so price isnt an issue with me. consider things like ease of instalation, and parts and just overall. ok thanks guys
or should i just get a h22... if i get the right suspension setup will it truly butcher my handling cuz i like my handling to be crisp and i dont want any understeer. i like the idea of low end torque cuz its soo damn fun. this is starting to sound like a much better idea too me. and it will probably end up being cheaper then both other setups also.
Modified by who.needs.torque at 5:31 PM 2/9/2005
or should i just get a h22... if i get the right suspension setup will it truly butcher my handling cuz i like my handling to be crisp and i dont want any understeer. i like the idea of low end torque cuz its soo damn fun. this is starting to sound like a much better idea too me. and it will probably end up being cheaper then both other setups also.
Modified by who.needs.torque at 5:31 PM 2/9/2005
both are good ls/vtec will make more torque and depending on how you build it can rev just as high. Dont think throwing a vtec head on it and reving the **** out of it will mean it will make power and last though... I have a gsr crx and i went 13.5
Josh
Josh
will a h22 be a good match for a crx thats stripped or should i actually leave the seats in the back maybe to even out the weight??
uhh, CRX's dont have rear seats...unless you have the JDM one. H22 crx is a hard swap to do, lots of fab work. In my opinion, go with the B18C1
Also the H22a motor may be cheaper, but it will be like $5,000+ for the H22a swap in the end.
Also the H22a motor may be cheaper, but it will be like $5,000+ for the H22a swap in the end.
If you can get a GSR complete swap for $2k go for it, youll have more in a lsvtec because youll have to rebuild it to do it correctly. Besides there not that different. 36cc of displacement difference coming from the extra stroke.
Also an h22 EF will handle fine, you just have to set the suspension up for it. If it understeers, add a aftrmrkt rear sway. Youll have no problems, but id def jump on that $2k gsr swap.
Also an h22 EF will handle fine, you just have to set the suspension up for it. If it understeers, add a aftrmrkt rear sway. Youll have no problems, but id def jump on that $2k gsr swap.
my ls-vtec is being built as we speak...i have around 2500 so far invested.Def the gsr swap is cheaper but they are completley different.Im building it the correct way,and high compression about a good mild-mid all-motor engine.A gsr will put down 150 or so with bolt-ons.My engine will put out about 200 or so.But then again not everyone can build a engine.It requires alot of knowledge and skill.
A stock block lsvtec can't compare to a gsr motor..
gsr motor already comes stock with a girdle,oil squirters,and a balanced crank..
gsr motor can rev to 8200rpm safety
Stock block lsvtec cant rev past 7000 without becoming unstable..And it vibrates like crazy because of the unbalanced crank and shitty stroke ratio..You'll make power past 7000rpm because of the head but it wont be safe for shortblock..
To make an lsvtec reliable you have to atleast get some arp rod bolts,balance the rotating assembly,and for a safe measure get a girdle..And in my opinion the best ecu to get is a gsr p72 ecu since its for a 1.8 dohc vtec..and its obd1 so more aftermarket proframs are available for it....
You can get a pr3 or pw0 or p28 or whatever but it wont compensate for the extra displacement..
So in my opinion I would get a full gsr swap and convert the car to obd1 and run off the p72..
gsr motor already comes stock with a girdle,oil squirters,and a balanced crank..
gsr motor can rev to 8200rpm safety
Stock block lsvtec cant rev past 7000 without becoming unstable..And it vibrates like crazy because of the unbalanced crank and shitty stroke ratio..You'll make power past 7000rpm because of the head but it wont be safe for shortblock..
To make an lsvtec reliable you have to atleast get some arp rod bolts,balance the rotating assembly,and for a safe measure get a girdle..And in my opinion the best ecu to get is a gsr p72 ecu since its for a 1.8 dohc vtec..and its obd1 so more aftermarket proframs are available for it....
You can get a pr3 or pw0 or p28 or whatever but it wont compensate for the extra displacement..
So in my opinion I would get a full gsr swap and convert the car to obd1 and run off the p72..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A stock block lsvtec can't compare to a gsr motor..
gsr motor already comes stock with a girdle,oil squirters,and a balanced crank..
gsr motor can rev to 8200rpm safety
Stock block lsvtec cant rev past 7000 without becoming unstable..And it vibrates like crazy because of the unbalanced crank and shitty stroke ratio..You'll make power past 7000rpm because of the head but it wont be safe for shortblock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is soem truth to what your saying but some inconsistencies. All the ECU stuff is right on. Stock ls engines can rev past 7k just fine, just ask all the n/a ls guys running on crower 403s and 404s. Yes the rod bolts are prone to stretching and should be replaced, and not doing it is a gamble but others have done it and its worked just fine. The bolts are like $35 when i built mine, id go ahead and get the cheap insurance. The crank isnt out of balance. Yes there are minor weight inconsistencies in the rotating assembly but no different than a vtec engine, or any internal combustion engien for that matter. The rod/stroke ratio has nothing to do with vibrations. The problem with the lower rod to stroke ratio is the fact that the crank will in a sense be driving more force into the side of the cylinder, possibly creating an out of round condition in the lower portion of the sleeve resulting in improper ring seating and possible blow by. You may be suprised how close the b18Cs and the Ls-Vtec's compare when it comes to rod/stroke ratio.
B16A:
Rod length: 134 mm
Stroke: 77 mm
R/S: 1.74:1
B17A:
rod length: 131.87 mm
Stroke: 81.4 mm
R/S: 1.62:1
B18A-B:
Rod length: 137mm
Stroke: 89mm
R/S: 1.54:1
B18C:
Rod length: 137.9 mm
Stroke: 87.2 mm
R/S: 1.58:1
As for the oil squirters youd be suprised at how many hardcore allmotor builders take those out for less reciprocating weight.
gsr motor already comes stock with a girdle,oil squirters,and a balanced crank..
gsr motor can rev to 8200rpm safety
Stock block lsvtec cant rev past 7000 without becoming unstable..And it vibrates like crazy because of the unbalanced crank and shitty stroke ratio..You'll make power past 7000rpm because of the head but it wont be safe for shortblock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is soem truth to what your saying but some inconsistencies. All the ECU stuff is right on. Stock ls engines can rev past 7k just fine, just ask all the n/a ls guys running on crower 403s and 404s. Yes the rod bolts are prone to stretching and should be replaced, and not doing it is a gamble but others have done it and its worked just fine. The bolts are like $35 when i built mine, id go ahead and get the cheap insurance. The crank isnt out of balance. Yes there are minor weight inconsistencies in the rotating assembly but no different than a vtec engine, or any internal combustion engien for that matter. The rod/stroke ratio has nothing to do with vibrations. The problem with the lower rod to stroke ratio is the fact that the crank will in a sense be driving more force into the side of the cylinder, possibly creating an out of round condition in the lower portion of the sleeve resulting in improper ring seating and possible blow by. You may be suprised how close the b18Cs and the Ls-Vtec's compare when it comes to rod/stroke ratio.
B16A:
Rod length: 134 mm
Stroke: 77 mm
R/S: 1.74:1
B17A:
rod length: 131.87 mm
Stroke: 81.4 mm
R/S: 1.62:1
B18A-B:
Rod length: 137mm
Stroke: 89mm
R/S: 1.54:1
B18C:
Rod length: 137.9 mm
Stroke: 87.2 mm
R/S: 1.58:1
As for the oil squirters youd be suprised at how many hardcore allmotor builders take those out for less reciprocating weight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the schooling again</TD></TR></TABLE>
np. Your def on the right track so keep the advice up bro
Youve been helping alot of others out.
<-- hopes that your post wasnt meant to be sarcastic.
np. Your def on the right track so keep the advice up bro
Youve been helping alot of others out.
<-- hopes that your post wasnt meant to be sarcastic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untitled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<-- hopes that your post wasnt meant to be sarcastic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah..no sarcasm here
I need all the true info I can get..
<-- hopes that your post wasnt meant to be sarcastic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah..no sarcasm here
I need all the true info I can get..
the only part i dont think makes since on waht you said is why you would use a p72 when a p28 chipped would be just as effective since you need to tune the engine since it isnt a gsr motor with ls/vtec. Other than that I concure.
chipped P28 ecus = cheaper than chipped p72 and they both will work the same after tuning.
Josh
chipped P28 ecus = cheaper than chipped p72 and they both will work the same after tuning.
Josh
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