just had these fitted by shop in my b16 along with spoon headgasket, rm springs/retainers and itr lma's. idling is pretty bad, motor just wants to cut out when idle.

i already had piggyback ecu fitted that was setup to run my itr cams, could this be the prob ?

 

you might have bent some ex valves do a compression test

 

the car idled perfect before with itr cams in (couple of days ago) and always has done. problem started soon as the bc3+ were fitted and collected car few hours ago

 

what valve lash do u have?

 

i have no idea, the guy that fitted em said he set everything to the spec sheet that comes with the cams

 

I am going to suspect based on your last problem that your shop has set the valve timing incorrectly with your cam gears. Sounds like they don't quite know what they're doing. Adjustable cam gears no matter what brand are not that hard to figure out. I'm willing to wager that they kept playing with your cam gears till the motor started, and now its started they are claiming there is now "idling problems" whereas the first problem is still at fault.

Have them double check everything and "zero" the timing before doing anything else.

And, btw, if you want to have them check for bent valves, have them do a leak down test. Good luck

 

teg02, that makes so much sense, as ya prob know i dont know nothin when it comes to this motor stuff so even most basic replies help

by valve timing, you mean should adjust cam gears ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vti444 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">teg02, that makes so much sense, as ya prob know i dont know nothin when it comes to this motor stuff so even most basic replies help

by valve timing, you mean should adjust cam gears ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the cam gears should both be set at "0"...

Do you know if the head of this motor has ever been shaved? And if so how much? Because shaving the head can slightly change the cam timing, and thus you need to compensate for it with the cam gears. If the head however has never been removed from the block, then both in/ex cams should be at 0 as a starting point.

 

i was thinking that they probably retarded the ex cam to much and probably bent a few
or one

 

head has never been removed. jdmcx, you have me worried. checked with guy and he set valve lash to factory spec not whats on the sheet

 

been for run in car and runs fine up to limiter in all gears.

idling has improved though, still lumpy but about as half as bad as before

 

Did you use adjustable cam gears? Because if you have the BC cam pulleys, they do not have "UP" marks on them...The boys that did your install may not have handled that properly and simply assumed where up is. That could easily set the timing belt off a tooth. I admit though, with BC3+'s installed, the idle is a bit rougher than when ITR's were used, but it's still quite bearable.

 

i have these cams in a gsr mildly built and idles just like stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -=Zeqs=- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you use adjustable cam gears? Because if you have the BC cam pulleys, they do not have "UP" marks on them...The boys that did your install may not have handled that properly and simply assumed where up is. That could easily set the timing belt off a tooth. I admit though, with BC3+'s installed, the idle is a bit rougher than when ITR's were used, but it's still quite bearable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

toda cam gears are installed

 

Don't know what I can tell you then. The things I would usually look for would be mechanical tuning, fuel tuning, and possibly ignition timing.