Well I am here in Jamaica I just came into the honda line. I currently own a 91 Acura Integra LS Speaical. I know now currently running a jdm b16a engine from a SIR civic well to me this car is not all that cause I am use to the whole turbo thing this is my first natural car. Well all my friend here are telling me about going B20 bottom half with b16 head and I will gain some massive hp more than a type R. Up on research I notice that the rods in the b20 block are very weak and it fly contected rod easily. So is there anybody out there that have done this setup would like to share some info
Respect

 

Do you plan to eventually go turbo with this car?

 

no not going turbo with this car i am trying the n/a route for now

 

Then I would definitely consider going B20/VTEC.

 

the b20 rods arent that weak. i have stock rods still and im shifting at about 9200rpm. i would recomend doing it especially if u want crazy all motor power. the only thing that i would worry about is keeping traction 1st and 2nd gear w/ that b16 tranny u have. you might wanna look into traction control bars if u decide to go b20.

 

thanks for the help respect, i will keep you guys posted on my project.
Can the stock LS intake and LS manifold use sameway and i will make good power

 

what is he talking about respect for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeaAddict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is he talking about respect for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

he's giving respect for the advice, you claffy. go drink your tea.

 

its just a figure of speech back to the topic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by demdem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help respect, i will keep you guys posted on my project.
Can the stock LS intake and LS manifold use sameway and i will make good power</TD></TR></TABLE>
You won't be able to use the LS intake manifold on a B16 head without modification. The LS exhaust manifold will fit though.

 

QUESTION?--
does the b20 block hang lower than a b18,
I have problems with slamming my hatch (h22a) cause the oil pan almost sits on the floor, I always wondered what the ground clearance difference was between the b18 and b20 (if any)

lord of mercy

 

the clearance to my knowledge is the same.

 

well i was thinking about using a V-AFC2 to change the rev limit to little earlier like say around 7000rpm cause its my day to day.

 

if he's going NA i would suggest doing a C5 swap, ALOT more reliable than doing b20/vtec. I mean u gotta look at it this way, ur going to spend quite a bit of money building the b20 for reliability where as u could almost just buy the c5 still have about the same amount of hp stock, minus all the modding, and have Vtec and all fo the propper tuning. that thats just imo...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20byJDMotors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the clearance to my knowledge is the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, the B20 and the LS have the same deck height and all. same clearance stuff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99LStegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if he's going NA i would suggest doing a C5 swap, ALOT more reliable than doing b20/vtec. I mean u gotta look at it this way, ur going to spend quite a bit of money building the b20 for reliability where as u could almost just buy the c5 still have about the same amount of hp stock, minus all the modding, and have Vtec and all fo the propper tuning. that thats just imo...</TD></TR></TABLE>
it all depends. he JUST said he was going to drop the rev limit to 7000. at 7000, it won't make Type-R power, but it will also only cost him &lt;$1000 to do it. no comparison. if he wanted a C5 motor, he'd be looking into a built B20 block for hella power.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by demdem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i was thinking about using a V-AFC2 to change the rev limit to little earlier like say around 7000rpm cause its my day to day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, 7000 will make a PERFECTLY reliable daily driver out of it. it will last as long as you don't crash the car, assuming the tuning isn't crap. you might consider 7500 if you replace the rod bolts with ARP bolts. the stock bolts give up way before the rods, and as said before, the rods are not the weak point in this engine. mostly, it's the sidewall loading from revving high with such a long stroke, and also the fact that the main bearing caps are not secured. if you want to see a great symbol of strength, take a look at the new K20 engines. they are so strong God could not walk those main bearings. figuratively speaking, of course.

 

well here in Jamaica and I can get a strip B20 for little and nothing
Engine cost is =US$400.00
Labour =US$160
So I would stick with the b20 convertion less hassle