quick question for those using toe plates
So i was thinking about getting toe plates...but then i'm trying to figure out something
you measure the distance from plate to plate to get toe (subtract front and rear)...but wouldn't these plates only be useful if you want zero toe all the way around?
lets say you get 1/8 inch total toe out...but how do you know that both wheels are 1/16 out and not one being 1/32 and the other 3/32 (dunno if i did the math right)...i've never personally done an allignment so anyone help me out please?
you measure the distance from plate to plate to get toe (subtract front and rear)...but wouldn't these plates only be useful if you want zero toe all the way around?
lets say you get 1/8 inch total toe out...but how do you know that both wheels are 1/16 out and not one being 1/32 and the other 3/32 (dunno if i did the math right)...i've never personally done an allignment so anyone help me out please?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azian21485 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So i was thinking about getting toe plates...but then i'm trying to figure out something
you measure the distance from plate to plate to get toe (subtract front and rear)...but wouldn't these plates only be useful if you want zero toe all the way around?
lets say you get 1/8 inch total toe out...but how do you know that both wheels are 1/16 out and not one being 1/32 and the other 3/32 (dunno if i did the math right)...i've never personally done an allignment so anyone help me out please?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you get one to 1/32 and one to 3/32, funtionally going down the road your toe will be 2/32 each side. The steering wheel may not be straight, but the toe will be what you are aiming at.
Toe plates are great for "fixing" a problem, and for making sure your alignment is still where it was set during a "real" setup. Not the best thing in the world for a real good aligment.
you measure the distance from plate to plate to get toe (subtract front and rear)...but wouldn't these plates only be useful if you want zero toe all the way around?
lets say you get 1/8 inch total toe out...but how do you know that both wheels are 1/16 out and not one being 1/32 and the other 3/32 (dunno if i did the math right)...i've never personally done an allignment so anyone help me out please?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you get one to 1/32 and one to 3/32, funtionally going down the road your toe will be 2/32 each side. The steering wheel may not be straight, but the toe will be what you are aiming at.
Toe plates are great for "fixing" a problem, and for making sure your alignment is still where it was set during a "real" setup. Not the best thing in the world for a real good aligment.
What we do is use fishing line to ensure the rears and fronts are lined up with each other. Then we use the toe plates. Then we go back and make sure the fronts and rears are still lined up.
Its tedious, but it works track side.
But as Bowie mentioned, nothing beats an alignment rack and a guy that knows what hes doing (which is increasingly hard to find).
Its tedious, but it works track side.
But as Bowie mentioned, nothing beats an alignment rack and a guy that knows what hes doing (which is increasingly hard to find).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What we do is use fishing line to ensure the rears and fronts are lined up with each other. Then we use the toe plates. Then we go back and make sure the fronts and rears are still lined up.
Its tedious, but it works track side.
But as Bowie mentioned, nothing beats an alignment rack and a guy that knows what hes doing (which is increasingly hard to find).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am seriously considering popping for the $300+ for a set of SmartStrings for doing alignments. At least when I start working on the car myself again. That setup makes for quite the easy alignment.... saves tons of time, and would pay for itself in what, 4 uses?
Its tedious, but it works track side.
But as Bowie mentioned, nothing beats an alignment rack and a guy that knows what hes doing (which is increasingly hard to find).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am seriously considering popping for the $300+ for a set of SmartStrings for doing alignments. At least when I start working on the car myself again. That setup makes for quite the easy alignment.... saves tons of time, and would pay for itself in what, 4 uses?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am seriously considering popping for the $300+ for a set of SmartStrings for doing alignments. At least when I start working on the car myself again. That setup makes for quite the easy alignment.... saves tons of time, and would pay for itself in what, 4 uses?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are there any good resources on how to do a DIY alignment? I was planning on getting GCs for track season, and switching back to my Pro-Kits for winter; and I don't want to have to pay for an alignment every time. I also would like to be able to add some front neg camber at trackside.
I've seen some info on soloracer and longacre sites (I think), but they didn't seem all that detailed to give me the confidence that it'd be easy enough to chalk up the money for.
I am seriously considering popping for the $300+ for a set of SmartStrings for doing alignments. At least when I start working on the car myself again. That setup makes for quite the easy alignment.... saves tons of time, and would pay for itself in what, 4 uses?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are there any good resources on how to do a DIY alignment? I was planning on getting GCs for track season, and switching back to my Pro-Kits for winter; and I don't want to have to pay for an alignment every time. I also would like to be able to add some front neg camber at trackside.
I've seen some info on soloracer and longacre sites (I think), but they didn't seem all that detailed to give me the confidence that it'd be easy enough to chalk up the money for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are there any good resources on how to do a DIY alignment? I was planning on getting GCs for track season, and switching back to my Pro-Kits for winter; and I don't want to have to pay for an alignment every time. I also would like to be able to add some front neg camber at trackside.
I've seen some info on soloracer and longacre sites (I think), but they didn't seem all that detailed to give me the confidence that it'd be easy enough to chalk up the money for.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
With something like the SmartStrings or whatever it becomes very easy to do. you just set it up, make all your measurements to make sure it is perfectly square and equal distance from your 2 front hubs and 2 rear hubs, and go to town!
once you have made an adjustment, you put the car back on the ground, roll it around, and re-measure, no need to set the strings again, as they are attached to the car itself.
Are there any good resources on how to do a DIY alignment? I was planning on getting GCs for track season, and switching back to my Pro-Kits for winter; and I don't want to have to pay for an alignment every time. I also would like to be able to add some front neg camber at trackside.
I've seen some info on soloracer and longacre sites (I think), but they didn't seem all that detailed to give me the confidence that it'd be easy enough to chalk up the money for.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
With something like the SmartStrings or whatever it becomes very easy to do. you just set it up, make all your measurements to make sure it is perfectly square and equal distance from your 2 front hubs and 2 rear hubs, and go to town!
once you have made an adjustment, you put the car back on the ground, roll it around, and re-measure, no need to set the strings again, as they are attached to the car itself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you get one to 1/32 and one to 3/32, funtionally going down the road your toe will be 2/32 each side. The steering wheel may not be straight, but the toe will be what you are aiming at.
Toe plates are great for "fixing" a problem, and for making sure your alignment is still where it was set during a "real" setup. Not the best thing in the world for a real good aligment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm...even though "each side will be 2/32" when going straight, wouldn't the difference in "real" toe measurements still effect left and right turning? or would it not matter?
well i think i thought of a minor solution...
use the toe plates to zero the toe ...and then start moving each side out by little and equal (as best you can) increments until you get the overall toe to what you want...pain in the *** though and not perfect but it should be ok
If you get one to 1/32 and one to 3/32, funtionally going down the road your toe will be 2/32 each side. The steering wheel may not be straight, but the toe will be what you are aiming at.
Toe plates are great for "fixing" a problem, and for making sure your alignment is still where it was set during a "real" setup. Not the best thing in the world for a real good aligment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm...even though "each side will be 2/32" when going straight, wouldn't the difference in "real" toe measurements still effect left and right turning? or would it not matter?
well i think i thought of a minor solution...
use the toe plates to zero the toe ...and then start moving each side out by little and equal (as best you can) increments until you get the overall toe to what you want...pain in the *** though and not perfect but it should be ok
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azian21485 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or would it not matter?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
J00 can set one wheel to zero toe, and the other one to 1/2" out and the result would be a cr00ked steering wheel and 1/4" toe out on each front wheel...
or would it not matter?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
J00 can set one wheel to zero toe, and the other one to 1/2" out and the result would be a cr00ked steering wheel and 1/4" toe out on each front wheel...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With something like the SmartStrings or whatever it becomes very easy to do. you just set it up, make all your measurements to make sure it is perfectly square and equal distance from your 2 front hubs and 2 rear hubs, and go to town!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice! I just googled this up, and it looks like a pretty slick system. I may end up picking one up eventually. I figure with all the cars I work on, it'll pay for itself pretty quickly.
I hate having to bring my car to a shop to get it done, especially with the unqualified techs out there and the ones who don't want to set up to your own specs; or the ones who figure 'in spec' is good enough.
With something like the SmartStrings or whatever it becomes very easy to do. you just set it up, make all your measurements to make sure it is perfectly square and equal distance from your 2 front hubs and 2 rear hubs, and go to town!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice! I just googled this up, and it looks like a pretty slick system. I may end up picking one up eventually. I figure with all the cars I work on, it'll pay for itself pretty quickly.
I hate having to bring my car to a shop to get it done, especially with the unqualified techs out there and the ones who don't want to set up to your own specs; or the ones who figure 'in spec' is good enough.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
J00 can set one wheel to zero toe, and the other one to 1/2" out and the result would be a cr00ked steering wheel and 1/4" toe out on each front wheel...</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh ok thanks
so what would happen if the rear wheels had uneven toe out?
J00 can set one wheel to zero toe, and the other one to 1/2" out and the result would be a cr00ked steering wheel and 1/4" toe out on each front wheel...</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh ok thanks
so what would happen if the rear wheels had uneven toe out?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azian21485 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh ok thanks
so what would happen if the rear wheels had uneven toe out? </TD></TR></TABLE>
J00 can't use toe-plates in the rear unless j00 are positive they are even. If they have uneven toe settings in the back the rear of the car will want to turn.
oh ok thanks
so what would happen if the rear wheels had uneven toe out? </TD></TR></TABLE>
J00 can't use toe-plates in the rear unless j00 are positive they are even. If they have uneven toe settings in the back the rear of the car will want to turn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am seriously considering popping for the $300+ for a set of SmartStrings for doing alignments. At least when I start working on the car myself again. That setup makes for quite the easy alignment.... saves tons of time, and would pay for itself in what, 4 uses?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got a set of the Smart Strings this summer.....very quick for a DIY alignment. Just set them up and leave them adjusted to your car. Makes the next time you do the alignment a snap. I have a lift in my shop so I do everything in that area. Makes adjusting the tie rods ends much quicker and easier. Roll it back and forth, check it and viola!! its ready to go
.....just make sure the surface the car is on is flat and level.
I am seriously considering popping for the $300+ for a set of SmartStrings for doing alignments. At least when I start working on the car myself again. That setup makes for quite the easy alignment.... saves tons of time, and would pay for itself in what, 4 uses?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got a set of the Smart Strings this summer.....very quick for a DIY alignment. Just set them up and leave them adjusted to your car. Makes the next time you do the alignment a snap. I have a lift in my shop so I do everything in that area. Makes adjusting the tie rods ends much quicker and easier. Roll it back and forth, check it and viola!! its ready to go
.....just make sure the surface the car is on is flat and level.
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