I did a search and didn't find the answers I needed so if this has already been answered please send me the link, but... I'm running the jap spec si motor with the us p14 ecu and I'm getting two codes. One is for the knock sensor the other is for the iab. The engine didnt come with the knock sensor so I'm thinking I don't need it. I tried to ground the signal but it didnt work I'm guessing because the sensor is supposed to change values with the engine revs. As for the iab i think it was broken off my swap. If im not incorrect there should be a black box on the underside of my intake manifold. Right now my car feels like the timing is retarded and or im running to rich. I know theres probably a couple ways to approach the problem. What are my options? I'm on a college student's budget but I want to do this the right way if theres such thing.

 

Someone please help me out

 

Check out http://www.accordinglydone.com there really good with the code problems.

 

its pulling timing because of the knock sensor not being present, you can try to run a chipped p28 to get pass those two codes

 

Is there any advantage to chipping the P28 over chipping my P14? I ask mainly because I have two of em(long story). I was getting ready to purchase a knock sensor and try to do it that way since I haven't got many other ideas searching on the web.

 

by the way what car is the p28 from? and when you say chipping do you mean for extra power or out of neccesity to make it work with my car? if you mean for added performance what chip would you reccomend. I haven't read many great things about performance chips.

 

p28 came from a vtec civic 5 speed, the p28 does not support the knock feature, and is the cheapest ecu to run hondata on

 

The only problem with that is my engine is the jdm dohc non vtec so then the ecu will be looking for the "vtec stuff" that my engine doesnt have.

 

The P14 you are running will throw a code for the knock sensor, but will not trow one for the IAB. the secondaries either work or don't. Make sure that you are reading the code right. It might be the IAC (intake air control valve) that regulates the idle when you turn on yout hweadlights or your AC.

Performance can be severely hindered due to the ECU retarding the hell out of the ignition and running the mixture rich.

Hondata will not work with P0A, P14 or P13 ECU's and I would be extremely suspicious of any "performance" chips for the previously listed ECU's.

A P28 with an H23 program should negate any knock sensor related issues But remember that the H23 is 100cc's larger displacement so it will run rich at first and might run like ***. The ECU will use the O2 sensor and will eventually lean out the fuel and will run better eventually. Getting the ECU for the F22B would be easier and more reliable. In the meantime getting a knock sensor off FleaBay should greatly improve your performance. Used is much more affordable than New from Honda.

Pirate

 

I have found a couple knock sensors on ebay mosty for civics and integras are these knock sensors interchangeable with the ones for the H and F blocks?

 

Go to http://www.slhondaparts.com and compare part numbers. Same part numbers mean that they are the same part.

Pirate

 

thanks for that imma let you know how things turn out when i get that fixed. On a side note... I got my aib wired up which was effecting the ecu somehow because it got rid of that code 14 (I know code 14 is for IAC but still...), but i don't feel like it made a difference. I'm gonna try not to worry about it until I take care of the knock sensor code.

I pushed it to 80 against an old school 'Stang today but i noticed that i couldn't gain any ground till after 5000 rpms in third. As soon as i hit 4th he started to leave me

 

On my old H22 I could not feel the IAB working but the difference was significant on the dynograph. If the F22B cams are the same as the H23's then you should look for some dynos of the H23. The torque drops like a stone after 5300rpm. There is virtually no point to spinning past 6000rpm. Look into some Crower camshafts. You'll get more power and more torque and if you go with the stage one's you do not have to change the springs.

Pirate

 

i finally got the knock sensor....in order to test it out i wired it to the ecu and wrapped another wire around the threads of the sensor and grounded that. Then i wrapped the sensor up in cloth and placed it inside the car just above the ecu where it cant move around and shouldnt get bumped( atleast not while theres no passenger with me). It seemed to work...my car no longer stalled while in warm up stage and the hesitation from a stop was just about gone but after a while the check engine light came back on for the knock sensor again. I have reset the ecu a handful of times by removing the ecu fuse. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Any suggestions?

I see tons of replies as to what kit to get for our cars, doesn't anyone out there besides me or the Pirate get their hands dirty doing engine work on their cars?

 

i realize that pulling the fuse doesn't reset the ecu, so i did it the right way and unplugged the negative battery cable for a couple minute. I'm STILL getting code 23. I tested the sensor with a tester I have and it seems to be working fine. I wired it up to pin D3. I can't think of anything else to do. HELP!!

 

is it possible that it is knocking?

 

i put a small piece of cloth around the sensor and stuffed it into one of those little orange medicine containers. Then i wrapped that with a bigger piece of cloth. when i tested it i had to hit it fairly hard to get any signal from it. I place this small bundle under the little "shield" that covers the ecu. I was thinkin to go back and firmly secure it somewhere else. I guess if the connections are good then somehow the sensor is reading knock. I'll mess with it tommorow morning.

 

I am not sure why this worked but i used a 12mm nut and mounted the sensor thru the spot used to place the hooks from a hoist when lifting the engine. I left the extra ground wires that I had previously attatched to it and the ecu finally stopped throwing the code. I thought this was gonna be the end of my problems . My car has been stalling while its cold ever since I did the swap. I noticed before when the ecu was throwing codes: I would start the car up and it would seem fine but if i tried to go anywhere right away the car would stall every time I took my foot off the gas until a little bit after the the codes would start flashing. ( I could keep it from cutting off by tapping the gas) I initially thought after i had taken care of the sensors responsible for the codes the stalling would stop but it hasn't. I replaced the wires and the plugs. (The old plugs didnt look bad either) It made the motor feel a little better when i step on it but didnt seem to make much of a difference.

 

I swapped out my axles not long ago and i don't think it is related, but ever since then when my car leanson the passenger side (left turn) or if i hit a dip I hear this grinding/rubbing noise. It sounds kinda like the noise of metal teeth grinding on each other. I think my passenger side spring has gone bad because when i push on it that corner i hear squeaking, and I'm not sure if i imagine it but I feel like the car has a slight lean towards that side when i'm sitting in the car.

I'm thinking to go ahead and replace shocks and springs but I'm not sure whats rubbing and I am afraid that if I get lowering springs I'll have the same problem or worse. Can anyone tell me what would most likely be rubbing due to bad springs?