I have a stock 97 jdm ITR swap in my 97 civic coupe. i have been looking around on the search but havent found any real answers. im going to piece together my own turbo kit to run a safe 6psi on all stock internals. should i space my head with a thick head gasket (maybe run more boost) or just leave it? i was planning on building my own manifold. anyother inputs from anyone who has done this? and as far as what i will need...hi flow fuel pump, waste gate, bov, what size intercooler, ect.... any input will help..thanks

 

this is a good set-up for you:

neukin/full-race/ram-horn style turbo manifold (or if you are making it then do something like that)
3" downpipe
3" exhaust
tial bov
tial 38mm wg
precsion intercooler (the big or medium size one)
precision turbo or whatever you like that is a good one
500cc or bigger injectors (depends on how much upgrading you want available)
hondata
walbro 255 lph fuel pump
thicker headgasket is a good idea
a better clutch definitely

my opinion is to start off with a set up than you can get more power out of later if you want...it saves time and money in the end...so basically dont get the bare minimum to accomplish your current power goals...get parts that can make and handle more power in case you want to build it later, that way you can use your existing turbo set-up at that time

and always get quality parts...no crap like ssautoshit

with the type r motor (high compression) a thicker headgasket is a great idea and your main focus will be tuning (as in any set-up, but more important with high compression if you want it to last)

so tune it very good with hondata or other ems, no VAFC or FMU or anything like that and make sure you use good gas and have plenty of fuel delivery

i would say that you could make 300+whp safely with enough fuel and good tuning, by the way more if you want to push it a little

good luck with your set-up

 

start with 44mm wastegate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jordo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start with 44mm wastegate </TD></TR></TABLE>

that will work too...and it is v-band...nice

 

Cool thanks for all the input!! one of the guys at my work used to race indy cars and he has a bunch of turbos laying around that he would sell me. ok heres the turbo i have access to buying for $300. its a garrett p/n 465919 s/n 3518-04. the thing is, is that where the exaust manifold bolts up its round and no bolt holes. so im wondering if its even worth buying. any suggestions would be appriciated.

 

the jdm itr is slightly higher compression than the usdm one....but perhaps my numbers can give you a guide of what is possible on a stock b18c(5) boosted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostjunkie757 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the jdm itr is slightly higher compression than the usdm one....but perhaps my numbers can give you a guide of what is possible on a stock b18c(5) boosted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yours is a USDM? i thought your 1/4 mi time would be better than that. i was thinking low 11s if not high 10s.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJtypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yours is a USDM? i thought your 1/4 mi time would be better than that. i was thinking low 11s if not high 10s. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you being serious?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you being serious?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, iam being serious. all thought im new the imports scene. but if you think about it, just do the math. 350 whp + 2300lb car...i guess i will just have to go to the track and see.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJtypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes, iam being serious. all thought im new the imports scene. but if you think about it, just do the math. 350 whp + 2300lb car...i guess i will just have to go to the track and see. </TD></TR></TABLE>

350 WHP even in a 2300 pound car you would be VERY hard pressed to hit 10's in a FWD car. His motor is making 300 WHP at the lower boost like he ran at the track, and his ITR weighs just a pinch more than 2300 pounds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJtypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes, iam being serious. all thought im new the imports scene. but if you think about it, just do the math. 350 whp + 2300lb car...i guess i will just have to go to the track and see. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My R weighs 2600 and I have over 350whp but i spin my tires to the 1000ft mark and go very slow in the quarter. No way 10's are doable in a stock weigh r with 350whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by btotherizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My R weighs 2600 and I have over 350whp but i spin my tires to the 1000ft mark and go very slow in the quarter. No way 10's are doable in a stock weigh r with 350whp</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you running slicks???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJtypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
are you running slicks???

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course not, I'm poor! Oh and I suck at drag racing

 

inline pro head gasket and turbo manifold is the way to go....don't cheap out spend the money