Help with Sony CDX-L510X
Car: 93 Civic Coupe
Had a bunch of radios before no problems.
I got this head unit off my friend, because he was upgrading to something better. The radio worked fine in his car, 94+ GSR. Now i got the harness for the radio and i cut and crimped all the usual wires back up to use the radio harness. Now the radio doesnt want to work. When i switch the Red power and Yellow memory then the radio will beep and try to eject a CD. If i put the wires back where there suppose to go RED = Yellow w/red strip and YELLOW = White w/blue strip, nothing happens at all.
Any ideas what could be wrong? I checked the ground and thats fine, tried resetting a bunch of times and same thing. TIA.
Had a bunch of radios before no problems.
I got this head unit off my friend, because he was upgrading to something better. The radio worked fine in his car, 94+ GSR. Now i got the harness for the radio and i cut and crimped all the usual wires back up to use the radio harness. Now the radio doesnt want to work. When i switch the Red power and Yellow memory then the radio will beep and try to eject a CD. If i put the wires back where there suppose to go RED = Yellow w/red strip and YELLOW = White w/blue strip, nothing happens at all.
Any ideas what could be wrong? I checked the ground and thats fine, tried resetting a bunch of times and same thing. TIA.
First of all you should have a good multimeter and proper test leads or at least a shitty multimeter. here are some tips to help you out.
There are really only three wires that absolultely must not be screwed up.
1 is GROUND... I cannot stress this enough. I'm a journeyman electrician and I can't tell you how many times I've seen bad grounding **** something up. Make sure that you attach this to ground. If you cannot find a good ground wire (0 ohms impedance to the chassis) check that your ground wire from the battery to the chassis is connected properly and not corroded anywhere. Failing that, you can run a new one to a part of the chassis, if you do this however make sure that you sand or scrape the paint away from where you attach it. This wire will be BLACK!
2 is power, and I mean a constant 12 volts even when the car turned off. You called this the memory wire but really it's the power. If you absolutley had to you could run this right from the battery with an inline fuse, but use the multimeter and find the right one in the dash to avoid leaving a potentially live wire from floating around in there. This one will go to the YELLOW wire on the back of the deck.
3 is ignition. There is probably only one wire that will do this in there. But it will be completely dead when the ignition is switched off and will have about 12 - 14 volts with the ignition turned on and the car running or not. This one will go to the RED wire on the back of the deck.
I hope this post wasn't too condescending in it's content. I just want to help as I know it's frustrating.
There are really only three wires that absolultely must not be screwed up.
1 is GROUND... I cannot stress this enough. I'm a journeyman electrician and I can't tell you how many times I've seen bad grounding **** something up. Make sure that you attach this to ground. If you cannot find a good ground wire (0 ohms impedance to the chassis) check that your ground wire from the battery to the chassis is connected properly and not corroded anywhere. Failing that, you can run a new one to a part of the chassis, if you do this however make sure that you sand or scrape the paint away from where you attach it. This wire will be BLACK!
2 is power, and I mean a constant 12 volts even when the car turned off. You called this the memory wire but really it's the power. If you absolutley had to you could run this right from the battery with an inline fuse, but use the multimeter and find the right one in the dash to avoid leaving a potentially live wire from floating around in there. This one will go to the YELLOW wire on the back of the deck.
3 is ignition. There is probably only one wire that will do this in there. But it will be completely dead when the ignition is switched off and will have about 12 - 14 volts with the ignition turned on and the car running or not. This one will go to the RED wire on the back of the deck.
I hope this post wasn't too condescending in it's content. I just want to help as I know it's frustrating.
Yea i checked all those, and they all turn out good. Ive done radios before and this one is just weird. My friend said that he plugged it up to his car and it was fine. Im going to go out and look to see about that fuse and ill check the wires real quick while im out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by willyboyD16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the radio fuse under the hood in the engine bay
you might have blown it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Apparently i blew a few fuses. I didnt know the radio fuse was under the hood, i also thought it was under the dash. Thanks
you might have blown it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Apparently i blew a few fuses. I didnt know the radio fuse was under the hood, i also thought it was under the dash. Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Apparently i blew a few fuses. I didnt know the radio fuse was under the hood, i also thought it was under the dash. Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE> It is, radio acc. is under the dash, and radio constant, [backup] is the 7.5A in the engine bay fusebox, that is why when you switched the wires the HU would initialize, [ try and eject the CD] that said, if you check what the draw on the HUs yellow wire is, you will find that it is probably more then 7.5A, and if you are useing the HUs internal amp, for best sound, you will need to wire the yellow to the batt.
94
Apparently i blew a few fuses. I didnt know the radio fuse was under the hood, i also thought it was under the dash. Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE> It is, radio acc. is under the dash, and radio constant, [backup] is the 7.5A in the engine bay fusebox, that is why when you switched the wires the HU would initialize, [ try and eject the CD] that said, if you check what the draw on the HUs yellow wire is, you will find that it is probably more then 7.5A, and if you are useing the HUs internal amp, for best sound, you will need to wire the yellow to the batt.
94
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
EFing8
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
6
Nov 14, 2002 03:27 PM




