B18B Turbo question?
Im looking to make no more than 300 hp at the motor, or about 250 whp with a t3/t4 turbo. It will be my daily driver so I want it to be streetable and last decent and that I can have a little fun with. My question is can the stock internals take that power? And should I put in some different cams? Also is there anything else I should do with the motor other than of course the fuel and ecu stuff?
yeah. you and me are both looking for similar things in our cars.
like dude said, a stock engine putting out that much power is not really going to last as a daily driver.
maybe do pistons/rods/rod bolts. and tune tune tune.
like dude said, a stock engine putting out that much power is not really going to last as a daily driver.
maybe do pistons/rods/rod bolts. and tune tune tune.
The stock sleeves will hold 300 ponies to the wheels before cracking under stress, this is of course, on a healthy engine. To test that, do a compression test to see how healthy your engine is.
He wants to make 300hp at the 'motor' he says, which I interpret as bhp, or horsepower made at the crankshaft. After the drivetrain loss, that could range anywhere from 240-280 wheel horsepower.
That kind of power is totally feesable and streetable on an internally stock engine, provided you have a good engine management system and a good tuner. It can also probably be done on 10psi of boost or less. Boost is not always releveant to the amount of power made.
I don't know what kind of budget you've got to work with, but you should be able to put out 250 wheel horsepower on a setup costing you ~$6000. That's a rough guesstimate, but not too far off.
Good luck!
He wants to make 300hp at the 'motor' he says, which I interpret as bhp, or horsepower made at the crankshaft. After the drivetrain loss, that could range anywhere from 240-280 wheel horsepower.
That kind of power is totally feesable and streetable on an internally stock engine, provided you have a good engine management system and a good tuner. It can also probably be done on 10psi of boost or less. Boost is not always releveant to the amount of power made.
I don't know what kind of budget you've got to work with, but you should be able to put out 250 wheel horsepower on a setup costing you ~$6000. That's a rough guesstimate, but not too far off.
Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock sleeves will hold 300 ponies to the wheels before cracking under stress, this is of course, on a healthy engine. To test that, do a compression test to see how healthy your engine is.
He wants to make 300hp at the 'motor' he says, which I interpret as bhp, or horsepower made at the crankshaft. After the drivetrain loss, that could range anywhere from 240-280 wheel horsepower.
That kind of power is totally feesable and streetable on an internally stock engine, provided you have a good engine management system and a good tuner. It can also probably be done on 10psi of boost or less. Boost is not always releveant to the amount of power made.
I don't know what kind of budget you've got to work with, but you should be able to put out 250 wheel horsepower on a setup costing you ~$6000. That's a rough guesstimate, but not too far off.
Good luck!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ what ScreaminTeg said. but you could make 250whp with probably less than $6000 if you know what you're doing. if not then yeah you're gonna probably have to spend that much.
He wants to make 300hp at the 'motor' he says, which I interpret as bhp, or horsepower made at the crankshaft. After the drivetrain loss, that could range anywhere from 240-280 wheel horsepower.
That kind of power is totally feesable and streetable on an internally stock engine, provided you have a good engine management system and a good tuner. It can also probably be done on 10psi of boost or less. Boost is not always releveant to the amount of power made.
I don't know what kind of budget you've got to work with, but you should be able to put out 250 wheel horsepower on a setup costing you ~$6000. That's a rough guesstimate, but not too far off.
Good luck!
</TD></TR></TABLE>^ what ScreaminTeg said. but you could make 250whp with probably less than $6000 if you know what you're doing. if not then yeah you're gonna probably have to spend that much.
Yeah my brother had a 97 integra ls which we turbod with a t3/t4 and that made 236 whp on the stock internals. I wanted to do the same with the b18b ls motor (this motor will be going into another car) and be able to drive it daily want to have it last. His lasted fine...until it got stolen. Anyway I was thinking to put some different cams in suited to the turbo and then with the right fuel management make 250 whp. I'm not planning on pushing it past 300 bhp (at the crank). Do you guys know much about the crower stage II turbo special model camshafts? I was thinking that and then the turbo setup, and I dont think it will cost nearly 6000, but I wouldnt doubt around 4.
$6000 might be a kinda fat budget for what he's trying to achieve.
My advice: spend the money on stuff that counts, and be frugal on others.
Get a nice brand new turbo so you have no problems with it, decent intake manifold, decent intercooler, clutch, and blow off valve. You don't need "bling" if you can't afford it.
Go cheap on the rest of the stuff, intercooler piping doesnt need to be all shiny and pretty, just get some mandrel bent pipes from jcwhitney.
I'd recommend uberdata and dsm injectors for fuel management, in my experience, it was highly cheap and worked amazing.
My advice: spend the money on stuff that counts, and be frugal on others.
Get a nice brand new turbo so you have no problems with it, decent intake manifold, decent intercooler, clutch, and blow off valve. You don't need "bling" if you can't afford it.
Go cheap on the rest of the stuff, intercooler piping doesnt need to be all shiny and pretty, just get some mandrel bent pipes from jcwhitney.
I'd recommend uberdata and dsm injectors for fuel management, in my experience, it was highly cheap and worked amazing.
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I have an Turbo LS/VTEC and I am making 235whp as well. Me and my freind built it before we even heard about Honda-tech and with a little advice from freinds we kinda figured out what needed to be done. but we never touched the block at all. So far there is about 10-12000km on the engine and 3000 of those were racing kms but we are tearing it down now that we KNOW what can/could go wrong and besides 10 year old rings gotta go. By the way this was the first time we ever did any serious engine work, most we had evr done was install an intake. sooooo I dont think LS/VTEC's are that difficult nor are they a nuissance, they just need a little TLC
please dont negate suspension parts to keep all of that power under control.
Shocks, springs, camber kit (if needed), swaybars, strut bars, and traction bars would help and would be well worth it.
Also, good tires.
Shocks, springs, camber kit (if needed), swaybars, strut bars, and traction bars would help and would be well worth it.
Also, good tires.
crower turbo cams 42402-T are very sweet, however due to the high lift you should upgrade valvesprings at a minimum. running these cams is not very necessary at all for your stated goals. i read on boosted-hybrid's website not too long ago that you can see gains from running adjustable cam gears on stock cams, tuning them to get rid of some of the overlap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crower turbo cams 42402-T are very sweet, however due to the high lift you should upgrade valvesprings at a minimum. running these cams is not very necessary at all for your stated goals. i read on boosted-hybrid's website not too long ago that you can see gains from running adjustable cam gears on stock cams, tuning them to get rid of some of the overlap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's exactly what i did. a method of tuning that i did and it worked out great for me when tunning with cam gears without a dyno is tuning them using a compression tester. try to set it so that you get the highest compression possible. i did this in my garage and on the dyno as well so i know that setting the cams where the highest compression is acheived will net you the most power with stock cams. example: TDC my compression read 185psi, with cam gears tuned compression is now at 200psi.
that's exactly what i did. a method of tuning that i did and it worked out great for me when tunning with cam gears without a dyno is tuning them using a compression tester. try to set it so that you get the highest compression possible. i did this in my garage and on the dyno as well so i know that setting the cams where the highest compression is acheived will net you the most power with stock cams. example: TDC my compression read 185psi, with cam gears tuned compression is now at 200psi.
yo whats up last nyte at taco bell i race this kid in a black mustang his name was aaron this kids arew was ******* slow i hate mustangs they suck i beat that bitch by like 12 cars i sprayed a 200 shot and my integra like blew buy his *** it was sick. he has a 5.0 with exaust and cams
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shermanyang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's exactly what i did. a method of tuning that i did and it worked out great for me when tunning with cam gears without a dyno is tuning them using a compression tester. try to set it so that you get the highest compression possible. i did this in my garage and on the dyno as well so i know that setting the cams where the highest compression is acheived will net you the most power with stock cams. example: TDC my compression read 185psi, with cam gears tuned compression is now at 200psi.
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hey man thats a solid idea right there. since you said you did it on a dyno also, im curious how much you gained from tuning cam gears on stock cams? i would really like to help my ls head flow more, but i dont think im in a financial position to buy new cams and valvesprings
that's exactly what i did. a method of tuning that i did and it worked out great for me when tunning with cam gears without a dyno is tuning them using a compression tester. try to set it so that you get the highest compression possible. i did this in my garage and on the dyno as well so i know that setting the cams where the highest compression is acheived will net you the most power with stock cams. example: TDC my compression read 185psi, with cam gears tuned compression is now at 200psi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>hey man thats a solid idea right there. since you said you did it on a dyno also, im curious how much you gained from tuning cam gears on stock cams? i would really like to help my ls head flow more, but i dont think im in a financial position to buy new cams and valvesprings
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