hey guys...I've got a couple broken oem crx wheel studs. I wanna replace them. I've looked on hondaautomotiveparts.com for the part #, but it's not even listed. Does anyone know the part #? Is it even worth my time getting oem parts or should I go with ARP extended wheel studs or even Spoon? Are any modifications needed to use either the ARP studs or the SPOON ones? where do i buy them?

Thanks in advance...

 

Just go to your local dealer, they're about $2 each if I remember correctly.

 

so you recommend the oem units over the arp or spoon ones?

 

Just about any auto place will have them.. I paid .96Cents a stud for some stock aluminum ones from a local Star Auto. But many big name chains, Pepboys, Kragen, Autozone should all carry them. Your not breaking them cause they're defective units, they're breaking cause of defective mechanics. If you overtorque them, they can strip out since they're only aluminum. Cheapies will be fine as long as you don't hulk out on them when torquing them down. - Darrell

 

when u are droping some serious numbers, i would go arp, im changing my stock ones to arp

 

hopefully this will be for the rear, cause if its for the front, you have to get them pressed out...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hated it!!!]hopefully this will be for the rear, cause if its for the front, you have to get them pressed out... </TD></TR></TABLE>

u dont need to press them, just some large sockets

 

unless you have specific reason to get LONGER studs, i wouldnt recommend bothering with anything other than stock.

if you DO get longer studs, i dont recommend skunk2 crap. theyre really crap, they dont fit well from what i hear. plus, theres no neet for the lower strength of aluminum for the "lightweight"ness.

i recommend either getting 1996-1998 Acura TL-3.2 REAR studs from acura. they are a bit longer and as strong as stock. the only other ones i recommend are ARP of course. these are the best, the current models have a blank tip to help thread the lugnut.

dont get the dorman either, theyre made for american cars and dont fit correctly.

but like i said, just replace with stock if you have no reason to need longer studs.

TL vs stock


ARP vs. stock






Modified by Tyson at 1:29 PM 1/8/2005

 

make sure they are ground down so you can slip them through.....without pressing the hub.

 

yes, this is for the front...so what needs to be done to do this before I tackle it...imma just get the TL studs....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burlyirishdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure they are ground down so you can slip them through.....without pressing the hub.</TD></TR></TABLE>

**** that...i dont care how many people have done it, that is just unsafe...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, this is for the front...so what needs to be done to do this before I tackle it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i broke a stud on my 90 integra brake spindles... which im usin for the b16 in my dx crx... i ordered the arp extended lugs. are they hard to put in?

i dont mind bustin my *** as long as i dont need special tools which i may not have access to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hated it!!!]
**** that...i dont care how many people have done it, that is just unsafe... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm with you on that, but you can use a slide hammer to pull off the front hub. And I have never had a problem with the bearings being ruined from doing it like this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unless you have specific reason to get LONGER studs, i wouldnt recommend bothering with anything other than stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same thing I was gonna say.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when u are droping some serious numbers, i would go arp, im changing my stock ones to arp </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have that much power to break wheel studs, there are other things to worry about.

 

I use the Dorman studs p/n 610-323....

They seem to be working just fine after 6 races.

...and they fit fine for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaptr1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont mind bustin my *** as long as i dont need special tools which i may not have access to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

got access to a press? only way to properly do it.

i dont like the method of grinding off EACH stud to fit it in without a press. the other way is grinding a bit off the knuckle at the right spot to do all 4.

you dont need a press for the rears however. just remove the lugnuts AFTER youve taken the hub off, or you will likely damage the bearing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you have that much power to break wheel studs, there are other things to worry about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i made 275 whp last summer and im going for 450, i think it would be wise to get studs

 

so do i need a press to install the oem studs into the stock crx front hubs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so do i need a press to install the oem studs into the stock crx front hubs?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, put the lugnut on them and put an impact to the lugnut, it will pull the stud threw.

 

I'm assuiming youve done this before....?
it won't strip the threads once it gets to the end will it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuiming youve done this before....?
it won't strip the threads once it gets to the end will it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean the end, you stick the stud in the hole, then thread a lug nut on. The lug nut will thread on and pull the stud out. I'm sure you could strip it ( but you could strip anything ) just go slow and be care full.

 

No press needed

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985

 

I'm using the ARP studs in the front and I have been very happy with them. They were a perfect fit in the OEM (OPM actually) hub and once I got some anti-sieze on them they work perfectly. Personally, I'm not happy with ANY of the install techniques that do not use a press. People just don't understand the forces required to "pull" a stud into place, nor do they appreciate the damage to wheel bearings from using a hammer (and once the bearing needs replacing, you're pulling the hub anyway). Studs aren't something you have to replace frequently, so why not just do it right. I could justify replacing ONE broken stud the ghetto way and take your chances, but if you're doing the whole set...

 

As others have said, you don't need a press to replace your studs. OEM part #90113-SA0-025 BOLT, WHEEL (NAGOYA RASHI) about 4 bucks a piece at your local dealer. Here's where I found themparts listing

 

i bought one of these for my mechanics:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...76000



works really well. sure, i'd prefer pressing them in, but this kit is a hell of a lot faster and easier.

plus, we do a lot of studs (i did 4! on a Maxima the other day), 'cause nobody around here has a clue...