Warm stalling problem with b18c swap
I have searched the archived posts on previous problems to no avail.
The problem that I am having is with my b18c swapped rex, I had run the car for roughly 500 miles with no issues like I am having rite now. The car will start usually after 4-5 cranks and go into fast idle around 1600 then settle down to 750 where it is supposed to be after warmed up. The problem is that if I give it a shot of gas after the car is warmed up the car will come right back down to 0 on the tach and stall out. I'll start it back up and everything idles fine until I give it another shot of gas then the problem will persist, also the car will stall everytime I push in the clutch and the revs drop to where they should hold at 750 but don't and just quits. With the car running and warmed up I unplug the IACV and the idle just sits at 800-900 or so but will not stall when you rev the engine and it comes back down to idle. With the iac unplugged the rpms seem to cut in and out around 3000 when held steadily with the gas but is fine above that rpm. I have replaced the main relay just last summer and the fuel filter has just been changed. Fuel pressure is a constant 36 psi at the fuel rail at idle. The only thing that I was thinking the problem might be is the throttlebody that I had bored to 64 mm by a local machine shop wich they also installed a new throttle plate, I havent touched anything on the throttle body since I got it back.
For the ignition system the car is running a MSD digital 6al ignition with a blaster hvc coil.
The fuel injectors are MSD 358 cc injectors
I'm running a pr3 ecu with a hondata stage 2 system that has been given a basemap and fuel has been trimmed from the bigger injectors.
The engine is runing 11.8:1 comp and skunk 2 stg 2 cams and full valvetrain and a Act prolite flywheel.
All opinions are welsome as this is really getting frustrating and I want to get this figured out.
I tried swappin gout the IACV but the one that I put on didn't really look much better than the one that was on the car already. The screen on the IAC had some carbon buildup but wasn't completley blocked at all. This problem just basically came out of no where, I put a few hundred km's on the car this summer and all was good with no stalling but then it just started doing this. With the iac unplugged the idle is smooth and no stalling but the the idle sits at 1000-900 with this done and I have read that the car should almost stall when it is unplugged or idle near 500rpm with the car fully warmed up. Also with the IAC unplugged if I hold the revs steady at like 3000 it pulses the revs like it's hitting a fuel cut but if you depress the gas further it revs with no hesitation. I am assuming this is due to the IAC not being plugged in.
Also, try cleaning out the IACV. Especially if its got buildup on the screen. Grab a can of carb-cleaner and just spray it in there until it all runs out clean. That fixes a lot of gummed-up IACV's.
might be a new vacuum leak? either in a line or the throttle body. take off the intake and see if someone can spray TB cleaner when you hit the gas to see if the idle stabilizes or if it changes?
what is a IACV? and where is it located? i am having a problem with my b16a it idles rough and bogs in high and low rpms. it almost seems like it's running out of gas. but is runs fine when it is cold
I'll have to check all of my vacuum lines and all of the gaskets on the intake area, I have a hondata heatsheild gasket on the intake, maybe that is leaking a bit. All of the insite is appreciated guys i'll have to try these things and see what happens.
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The IACV is located on the back of the intake manifold and does cause some problems at times.
You most likley have a 1st gen b16a in your car which uses the troublesome 2 o2 sensor setup, when one of those goes out of wack the car will run like ***, this has happened to me before as well. Maybe a new set of plugs and wires is in order for you even the cap and rotor.
You most likley have a 1st gen b16a in your car which uses the troublesome 2 o2 sensor setup, when one of those goes out of wack the car will run like ***, this has happened to me before as well. Maybe a new set of plugs and wires is in order for you even the cap and rotor.
Problem solved guys, thanks for your assistance. My TPS came loose and was out of wack fixed it up and no more stalling and IAC is fine.
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Kirk@SyndromeAuto
Acura Integra
18
Jan 31, 2007 08:45 PM




