I checked my oil today at the 1600 mile mark and it was dry. NO OIL!! I knew I was buring some oil because at stop lights I could smell it some but I didnt think it was that much! Well I am hearing either Piston Rings or Valve Seals. The block was rebuilt in Febuary but I have had some detonation since then. The head is about 150,000 miles old. Never rebuilt. I have yet to do a leak down test but wanted some opinions before hand.

Results of compression test:
-without putting oil in cylinder 175 175 155 175
-with oil in cylinder 200 200 225 200

I also would like some input on what I need to replace if I plan on rebuilding my head. I want it back in tip top shape. What are all the parts I need to replace? I dont really want to upgrade to aftermarket springs, retainers, or valves because I do not planning on raising the redline. I will however if any of these parts are cheaper to just get the aftermarket instead of OEM. I am on about a $500 budget for all the work I need to have done. I plan on rebuilding the head either way if it is not the Piston Rings cause I am sure it needs to be done with the high mileage.. Thanks

 

wild guess here, but the burning oil, Im guessing you probably burned it and it went into the atmosphere!

 

another stock LS head couldnt cost u more then 150$$.. get one of those

YOU GET NO GOOD ADVISE AND YOU LIKE IT!!!!

 

valve seals

 

Bad Ring on Cylinder 3

 

I am leaning to say the same there. Its not that much different but still some cause for concern. The head having that many miles on it would cause you to have some oil burning issues as well, and with boost even more.

Like DIRep972 said you can get an ls head cheap....so try and find a head and slap it on and when you have the head off look at the #3 cylinder and see what the walls look like.

 

Do you guys mean cylinder 2? Remember its 4,3,2,1

art

 

well i listed then in the order of 1,2,3,4

 

on me then..

 

Thats what I was thinking...


[Modified by PWRVTEC, 7:13 AM 1/7/2002]

 

yeah "art of midget wrestling"

 

from your compr test results, looks like #2 cyl jumps 50psi from sealing with oil... so oil ring or scarred sleeve.

stronger valvetrain is not only used for higher revving, its is also used for boosted application because there is more "free load" on the valvetrain while under boost, stiffer springs will help to reduce valvefloat.

on the exh side of the head, most certaily spend the money to upgrade to stronger stainless steel valves... do the intake also but not nearly as necessary as the exhasut side.

Greg