B20 Vtec in a CRX
I plan on buying a used B20B vtec and b16 transmission for a $1000 and dropping it into my 90 CRX. The bottom end is stock. I was wondering if the bottom end could handle a couple of HPDE's and autocrosses a year. I heard that the B20 sleeves are weak and not sure if would with stand the abuse. anyone with a similar setup?
thanks Jason
thanks Jason
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIKSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on buying a used B20B vtec and b16 transmission for a $1000 and dropping it into my 90 CRX. The bottom end is stock. I was wondering if the bottom end could handle a couple of HPDE's and autocrosses a year. I heard that the B20 sleeves are weak and not sure if would with stand the abuse. anyone with a similar setup?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you shift it gently it may last. if i were you, i wouldn't go much over 7500 rpm. lots of the guys who run them here on the east coast have broken them repeatedly (sleeves, rods, bearings, etc), but many of these fellas are asking max performance from the engines and are shifting at 8k and above.
good luck with your project!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you shift it gently it may last. if i were you, i wouldn't go much over 7500 rpm. lots of the guys who run them here on the east coast have broken them repeatedly (sleeves, rods, bearings, etc), but many of these fellas are asking max performance from the engines and are shifting at 8k and above.
good luck with your project!
Personnally I am not a big fan of those engines but if your going to run it try to keep the shifts under 7k which is where the crv block lives alot longer. Also the ITR oil pump would be a good investment
Also if you do try and increse engine speeds over that I would suggest you purchase one of these
http://www.z10eng.com/parts/ati.htm
Also if you do try and increse engine speeds over that I would suggest you purchase one of these
http://www.z10eng.com/parts/ati.htm
Most of the stories of B20 block failures are about guys running a CR-VTEC hybrid motor using a VTEC head. If you can avoid the temptation and misguided peer pressure to run a VTEC head with that engine, you'll probably have more fun and fewer engine issues than all the rest of your Honda buddies combined. That engine has great torque and will be a total blast on the track and autocross events. Not sure if the B16 gearbox will prove weaker than the B20 box, but for that price, I'd sure give it a try. Especially if it has a limited slip.
What will follow my post will be a bunch of guys saying how wet I am and that a VTEC head is the only way to make real power and you're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock, bla, bla, bla. Of course they will be right that you CAN make more HP with a VTEC head. But most of them have never driven a stock LS or B20 in an EF and have no idea how bitchen low end torque really is. Trust your Uncle Thawley. Do NOT put a VTEC head on it. Ever. It'll be more fun and more reliable without.
Good luck with the swap and have fun,
What will follow my post will be a bunch of guys saying how wet I am and that a VTEC head is the only way to make real power and you're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock, bla, bla, bla. Of course they will be right that you CAN make more HP with a VTEC head. But most of them have never driven a stock LS or B20 in an EF and have no idea how bitchen low end torque really is. Trust your Uncle Thawley. Do NOT put a VTEC head on it. Ever. It'll be more fun and more reliable without.
Good luck with the swap and have fun,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What will follow my post will be a bunch of guys saying how wet I am and that a VTEC head is the only way to make real power and you're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock, bla, bla, bla. Of course they will be right that you CAN make more HP with a VTEC head. But most of them have never driven a stock LS or B20 in an EF and have no idea how bitchen low end torque really is. Trust your Uncle Thawley. Do NOT put a VTEC head on it. Ever. It'll be more fun and more reliable without.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're wet! You're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock! .... Just kidding.
I think he said the B20 is already setup w/ a VTEC head. From what I've read (no direct experience), the rod/stroke ratio on the B20 is far from ideal for a rev-happy motor. When you rev those motors too high, you get a lot of side loading on the cylinder wall and the stock components can fail. It will probably be ok for occasional track use, but I wouldn't rev it hard. Like the others said, keep it under 7k or so. The old Prelude Si's (circa 1991 or so) had a B21A that had a similar bore and rod/stoke ratio and they redlined at 6700 if memory servers (I used to own one). Just to back up what Thawley said above though, that non-VTEC 140hp prelude was a ton of fun even without VTEC because of the torque factor.
- Scott
What will follow my post will be a bunch of guys saying how wet I am and that a VTEC head is the only way to make real power and you're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock, bla, bla, bla. Of course they will be right that you CAN make more HP with a VTEC head. But most of them have never driven a stock LS or B20 in an EF and have no idea how bitchen low end torque really is. Trust your Uncle Thawley. Do NOT put a VTEC head on it. Ever. It'll be more fun and more reliable without.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're wet! You're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock! .... Just kidding.
I think he said the B20 is already setup w/ a VTEC head. From what I've read (no direct experience), the rod/stroke ratio on the B20 is far from ideal for a rev-happy motor. When you rev those motors too high, you get a lot of side loading on the cylinder wall and the stock components can fail. It will probably be ok for occasional track use, but I wouldn't rev it hard. Like the others said, keep it under 7k or so. The old Prelude Si's (circa 1991 or so) had a B21A that had a similar bore and rod/stoke ratio and they redlined at 6700 if memory servers (I used to own one). Just to back up what Thawley said above though, that non-VTEC 140hp prelude was a ton of fun even without VTEC because of the torque factor.
- Scott
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlyZlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're wet! You're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock! .... Just kidding.
I think he said the B20 is already setup w/ a VTEC head. From what I've read (no direct experience), the rod/stroke ratio on the B20 is far from ideal for a rev-happy motor. When you rev those motors too high, you get a lot of side loading on the cylinder wall and the stock components can fail. It will probably be ok for occasional track use, but I wouldn't rev it hard. Like the others said, keep it under 7k or so. The old Prelude Si's (circa 1991 or so) had a B21A that had a similar bore and rod/stoke ratio and they redlined at 6700 if memory servers (I used to own one). Just to back up what Thawley said above though, that non-VTEC 140hp prelude was a ton of fun even without VTEC because of the torque factor.
- Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got one of these too, well actually it's gettin parted out from on of it's rod bearing taking a **** at 6k. They redlined at 6700, but when warmed up they didnt' hit fuel cut-off till 7200 rpm. Also these motors were no where as well designed as these modern b-series wonders.
RPMs killed the b20a's b21a1's faster also since they had frm sleeves but non frm compatible piston rings so that hurt the ring a lot if revved hi early in life i believe.
Also I woudlnt' go vtec, I'd look into higher compressoin first. Some b20's come with as low as 8.8:1 ha ha that definetly needs some fixing.
Modified by red91sit at 12:48 AM 12/27/2004
You're wet! You're an idiot if you leave the B20 stock! .... Just kidding.
I think he said the B20 is already setup w/ a VTEC head. From what I've read (no direct experience), the rod/stroke ratio on the B20 is far from ideal for a rev-happy motor. When you rev those motors too high, you get a lot of side loading on the cylinder wall and the stock components can fail. It will probably be ok for occasional track use, but I wouldn't rev it hard. Like the others said, keep it under 7k or so. The old Prelude Si's (circa 1991 or so) had a B21A that had a similar bore and rod/stoke ratio and they redlined at 6700 if memory servers (I used to own one). Just to back up what Thawley said above though, that non-VTEC 140hp prelude was a ton of fun even without VTEC because of the torque factor.
- Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got one of these too, well actually it's gettin parted out from on of it's rod bearing taking a **** at 6k. They redlined at 6700, but when warmed up they didnt' hit fuel cut-off till 7200 rpm. Also these motors were no where as well designed as these modern b-series wonders.
RPMs killed the b20a's b21a1's faster also since they had frm sleeves but non frm compatible piston rings so that hurt the ring a lot if revved hi early in life i believe.
Also I woudlnt' go vtec, I'd look into higher compressoin first. Some b20's come with as low as 8.8:1 ha ha that definetly needs some fixing.
Modified by red91sit at 12:48 AM 12/27/2004
Yeah the motor already has a vtec head on it. I am still debating if i should just go with my original plan and swap in a first gen. b16a in my crx. I am on a tight budget and can't afford to build the bottom end of the b20 quit yet. This crx will prob. be a track only car later in the future.
thanks for all your input
Jason
thanks for all your input
Jason
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I am kinda looking at similar questions. I am looking at B20 bottom ls head(I have one with crowers already) and some 11.5-1 pistons I don't really get to rev that much in my area the roads aren't straight long enough. I have a b16 with an ls trannie right now and if you wait an hour it actually hits the rev limtr. I bought the b16 for the head and am running it until my ls bottom end is done but I have been thinking about other options.
I have the B20vtec and have no problems whatsoever. Keep your revs below 9k as much as possible as you know the consequences. One key to the life of an engine is TUNING!! It is nice to have more HP and torque. I have had mine for about 2yrs and used it for Daily/Canyon/ and Drag before sending the perfectly running engine to my buddies over @ Hookups to build it up for SEMA. Ran great just do your upkeep and be smart with it.
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