Upper Ball Joints - How to check for damage/How to replace the boots?
on a 94 accord EX:
So I find that both of my upper ball joint boots are leaking grease on the car. I do have a spare set of UCAs, but the boots are ripped on the both of them as well. I think they were ripped during storage/transportation rather than road use, but would like to check them for damage before installing those onto my car.
How do I check them for damage? What do I look for when testing them?
And when I replace the boots, are there any special tools I need for it? and what type of grease do I use to repack it with? Do I pack in as much grease as possible?
Is it easy to replace just the UCA on the car? What kind of work would I be looking at to drop the busted ones on my car and putting hte new ones on?
Lastly, any tips/things I should look out for? Thanks all (and merry xmas)!
So I find that both of my upper ball joint boots are leaking grease on the car. I do have a spare set of UCAs, but the boots are ripped on the both of them as well. I think they were ripped during storage/transportation rather than road use, but would like to check them for damage before installing those onto my car.
How do I check them for damage? What do I look for when testing them?
And when I replace the boots, are there any special tools I need for it? and what type of grease do I use to repack it with? Do I pack in as much grease as possible?
Is it easy to replace just the UCA on the car? What kind of work would I be looking at to drop the busted ones on my car and putting hte new ones on?
Lastly, any tips/things I should look out for? Thanks all (and merry xmas)!
I dont think there's boot for UPPER ball joint.
Just for your infomation the UCA and ball joint are one piece, i replace both of mine because there's some play around the socket joint.
put some load on the uca(buy nothing jacking it up), see if you can move the ball socket around, if there's play, it's time to replace them.
UCA installation is straight forward, two 14mm nuts on top(pop the hood and you'll see them), another nut and cotton pin.
rubber hammer or yellow page phone book and a hammer should free the ball joint from steering knuckle.
Just for your infomation the UCA and ball joint are one piece, i replace both of mine because there's some play around the socket joint.
put some load on the uca(buy nothing jacking it up), see if you can move the ball socket around, if there's play, it's time to replace them.
UCA installation is straight forward, two 14mm nuts on top(pop the hood and you'll see them), another nut and cotton pin.
rubber hammer or yellow page phone book and a hammer should free the ball joint from steering knuckle.
so are you saying they do sell the boot by itself?
one question for joo..how you gonna make the boot stay?
well, i would clean the hell out of the socket first, little bit of sand=sandpaper.
look for some good quality silicone grease, they generally last much longer than conventional grease
one question for joo..how you gonna make the boot stay?
well, i would clean the hell out of the socket first, little bit of sand=sandpaper.
look for some good quality silicone grease, they generally last much longer than conventional grease
I ordered parts 8 and 9 there, the boot and the circular clip, listed as the same one for the tie rods. It's honda automotive parts, so figured it should be correct.
so I'm just supposed to pack as much grease as I can fit when replacing it? And this is a sideball, but can I like put some duct tape around the boot (carefully cut to shape of course) after I get everything back on the car as extra protection? or would that be bad?
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You really don't need UCA's. All you need is the ball joint. I banged the hell outta mine and they can come off the UCA. I had to put a camber kit in and I went with the ball joint type...Pretty easy really!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudeman85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You really don't need UCA's. All you need is the ball joint. I banged the hell outta mine and they can come off the UCA. I had to put a camber kit in and I went with the ball joint type...Pretty easy really!</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. If you have access to a press, it is much much easier.
True. If you have access to a press, it is much much easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eauto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much does repair shop or dealers charge for replacing the front upper ball joints ??
des anyone have any idea</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is something that you can easily do at home with hand tools. You can rent a two jaw puller to make removal easier, but it is not neccesary. I bought my UCA from ebay for $60 shipped to my house. So far so good.
des anyone have any idea</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is something that you can easily do at home with hand tools. You can rent a two jaw puller to make removal easier, but it is not neccesary. I bought my UCA from ebay for $60 shipped to my house. So far so good.
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