**L//CON Engineering Traction Bar Review**
Due to numerous PM's and skeptical members concerned about this traction bar has inspired me to do a write up/review of LCON's product.
<U>The Car</U>: 1992 Civic Si
<U>Suspension</U>: Tein SS, Skunk2 Camber, Upper front & rear strut bars, lower tie bar
<U>Wheels</U>: 15x6.5" w/ 195/50-15 tires
I saw the ad in Sponsor's Marketplace, been looking for a traction bar cause I had a NASTY case of wheel hop and I heard it would improve handling also. But primarily I purchased it hoping to eliminate wheel hop. For $299, I figured I would give it a try...as opposed to other bars running in the $450 range.
Purchase the bar from camp1320.com. Shipped out the same day I ordered. Great business to order from, they get
On arrival the kit was missing the bolts, nuts, and washers to mount the brackets to the radius arms and to the bar itself. Had to go to the hardware store and purchase $10 in nuts & bolts. I have no pictures of the bar uninstalled, Sorry.
Installing was a breeze. Remove the plastic splash guards, remove the OEM towing brackets, and the center LCA bolt to mount the bracket. Though a few modifications had to be made to fit properly.
The plastic shroud on the bumper had to be trimmed down to allow the welded radius arm bar bracker to clear.

The spacers had to be grinded down 1/8" to fit.

After the bar is installed, the radius arms go in (it says in the directions to not use the arms for street use, but I am anyways). Just remove the center LCA bolt and install brackets, very easy. Once the brackets are in, the radius arms go in place. Twist the arms until hand tightened. Then you are good to go.



Here is the review portion. I see a lot of people criticizing this product (I.E. This bar isnt tested before released, it causes suspension bind, etc etc). Besides the need to cut a small amount of the bumper shroud and grinding 2 spacers, the fit is excellent. The brackets lined up flawlessly, the arms reaches with plenty of thread leftover. I have yet to experience suspension bind. Nor have the tires rubbed on the arms.

This bar has totally eliminated wheel hop. Just rev it up, tires spin, hook up, and off we go. **** filling mounts with that messy hardner. Shifting into other gears feels a lot more solid also. Not much of a difference in handling, it feel a little tighter up front but nothing to praise about.
The tow hook are sit really low, as you can see I have scraped many times so far. Really that is my only complaint but that is also my fault for having a low car
Im considering cutting the hooks off.
Overview
Fit: 9/10
Quality: 10/10
Functionality: 8/10
Overall: 9/10
Pros: Eliminates wheel hop...completely. Looks cool. Tightens front end up.
Cons: Tow hooks sit low and minor modifications needed.


I recommend this bar.
Sorry about my piece o' **** 1.2 MP camera and the dirty engine bay, as you can see Ive put about 1,000 miles on this bar
Any questions, let me know!
<U>The Car</U>: 1992 Civic Si
<U>Suspension</U>: Tein SS, Skunk2 Camber, Upper front & rear strut bars, lower tie bar
<U>Wheels</U>: 15x6.5" w/ 195/50-15 tires
I saw the ad in Sponsor's Marketplace, been looking for a traction bar cause I had a NASTY case of wheel hop and I heard it would improve handling also. But primarily I purchased it hoping to eliminate wheel hop. For $299, I figured I would give it a try...as opposed to other bars running in the $450 range.
Purchase the bar from camp1320.com. Shipped out the same day I ordered. Great business to order from, they get
On arrival the kit was missing the bolts, nuts, and washers to mount the brackets to the radius arms and to the bar itself. Had to go to the hardware store and purchase $10 in nuts & bolts. I have no pictures of the bar uninstalled, Sorry.
Installing was a breeze. Remove the plastic splash guards, remove the OEM towing brackets, and the center LCA bolt to mount the bracket. Though a few modifications had to be made to fit properly.
The plastic shroud on the bumper had to be trimmed down to allow the welded radius arm bar bracker to clear.
The spacers had to be grinded down 1/8" to fit.
After the bar is installed, the radius arms go in (it says in the directions to not use the arms for street use, but I am anyways). Just remove the center LCA bolt and install brackets, very easy. Once the brackets are in, the radius arms go in place. Twist the arms until hand tightened. Then you are good to go.
Here is the review portion. I see a lot of people criticizing this product (I.E. This bar isnt tested before released, it causes suspension bind, etc etc). Besides the need to cut a small amount of the bumper shroud and grinding 2 spacers, the fit is excellent. The brackets lined up flawlessly, the arms reaches with plenty of thread leftover. I have yet to experience suspension bind. Nor have the tires rubbed on the arms.
This bar has totally eliminated wheel hop. Just rev it up, tires spin, hook up, and off we go. **** filling mounts with that messy hardner. Shifting into other gears feels a lot more solid also. Not much of a difference in handling, it feel a little tighter up front but nothing to praise about.
The tow hook are sit really low, as you can see I have scraped many times so far. Really that is my only complaint but that is also my fault for having a low car
Im considering cutting the hooks off.Overview
Fit: 9/10
Quality: 10/10
Functionality: 8/10
Overall: 9/10
Pros: Eliminates wheel hop...completely. Looks cool. Tightens front end up.
Cons: Tow hooks sit low and minor modifications needed.
I recommend this bar.
Sorry about my piece o' **** 1.2 MP camera and the dirty engine bay, as you can see Ive put about 1,000 miles on this bar
Any questions, let me know!
they are fantastic, I've watched them being built and can vouch for the quality of the design and fabrication of these bars.
Nice write up and pics!!
I spent a lot of time shopping for traction bars, and they all seems to have the same basic design. The one thing that the L-con had that I have only seen on one other setup is the use of welded loops where the radius arms attach to the crossmember. Granted, the welds probably don't break on the other bars, I thought this shows the thoughtfulness put into these in the design process.
I spent a lot of time shopping for traction bars, and they all seems to have the same basic design. The one thing that the L-con had that I have only seen on one other setup is the use of welded loops where the radius arms attach to the crossmember. Granted, the welds probably don't break on the other bars, I thought this shows the thoughtfulness put into these in the design process.
just curious, how come you gave a functionality score of 8 out of 10 being that this kit does eliminate wheel hop (function) as advertised? i am not trying to be sarcastic i am just trying to get a fair score..
also, i would just like to say that if any of the distributors deliver a product with missing hardware please give me (louie) a call and i will next day you the missing parts. and about having to grind the spacer all you had to do was tap the tab out a little bit and it would have slid right in. i set the clearances real tight on the jig for one of the production runs and it will not happen again. thanks for the review i hope everything works out good for you.
(714)572-4130 or (714)366-1711
also, i would just like to say that if any of the distributors deliver a product with missing hardware please give me (louie) a call and i will next day you the missing parts. and about having to grind the spacer all you had to do was tap the tab out a little bit and it would have slid right in. i set the clearances real tight on the jig for one of the production runs and it will not happen again. thanks for the review i hope everything works out good for you.
(714)572-4130 or (714)366-1711
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I also have the LCON Traction Bars and they work great. On mine, I didn't even have to grind the spacers, everything fit perfect with the exception of cutting a bit off the bumper plastic.
I agree about the tow hooks being a bit low tho. Since they are pointed forward a little, they tend to scrap easier.
I agree about the tow hooks being a bit low tho. Since they are pointed forward a little, they tend to scrap easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integlspwr2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do they fit EK?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bambooseven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice!
yes</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integlspwr2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nice!</TD></TR></TABLE>
word
nice!</TD></TR></TABLE>
word
Question. What if the rivet points are eliminated? Just have the horizontal bar below the front chassis, weld two bars (with the same diameter) to the horizontal bar. Then those two bars will then bolt onto the LCA.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nova_Dust »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question. What if the rivet points are eliminated? Just have the horizontal bar below the front chassis, weld two bars (with the same diameter) to the horizontal bar. Then those two bars will then bolt onto the LCA.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm.. I don't think that would work out too well. How would it move with the suspension if it's welded?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm.. I don't think that would work out too well. How would it move with the suspension if it's welded?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So describe to us what a suspension bind would feel like, so we can be sure you would know if you experienced it.</TD></TR></TABLE>if it did bind which it dosent, it would be so small of a bind that you wont even feel it. the only way you know is by premature bushing wear!
Great review.
I can see this this working on the quarter mile runs but how does this this work when the car daily driven, as most car on honda-tech are? Is it just to tighten up the front end?
I can see this this working on the quarter mile runs but how does this this work when the car daily driven, as most car on honda-tech are? Is it just to tighten up the front end?
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