I have a JDM H22A and I do not see an Air Intake Bypass Solenoid under the intake manifold. Do I have to have it to have the secondary runners work? is there a way to get around it? if not, is anyone selling one? I need it asap.

 

EDIT, I l thought that pic was from a different spot


Modified by Hawkze_2.3 at 2:42 PM 12/12/2004

 

does that mean i need it? hahaha, i have no clue what that meant thanks for input sir

 

Edit: for better reading.

Advan06, You IABs has a broken fitting. You need to talk to the person you got your swap from to get you a new one.

 

Hey man I just got a h22a with one. I swapped my h22a1 onto it. However, from what I was told from the guy biulding the motor, he stated that, that isnt really needed. It only like 1-2hp if you do have it. It just open up the internal runners like you stated. I do have one if you want it let me know. It is a jdm one. But i dont think it has that IAB i swapped mine

 

You're going to need that to run you IAB's. I'm currently running with mine, but will remove it soon for a hawged out/single staged manifold and won't need my IAB Controller anymore. I'm in the Bay Area, if you want it.

 

you could get away without the whole box....but there is a sensor on it you will need.....that sensor tells it when to open em up....the box just provides a better vacuum charge.....i would give you the extra one i got with my swap but it was cracked on my h22 when i got it.......

you definately should have it, 1-2 hp is an understatement, without your car will bog terribly below 4500 rpm.....find one....im sure theres some out there....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Edit: for better reading.

Advan06, You IABs has a broken fitting. You need to talk to the person you got your swap from to get you a new one.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do i need that IAB check valve also?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreludeSiTdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> However, from what I was told from the guy biulding the motor, he stated that, that isnt really needed. It only like 1-2hp if you do have it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

who ever told you that was a retard, do you think honda would have wasted all the time and money in engineering the dual runner setup for a just 1 -2 hp, NO! and the benifit isn't in HP as the dual runners help with low end torque.

edit: and yes you need the check valve, that black container is a vacume canaster, the check valve with make sure hte vacume doesn't "escape" whe you go full throttle

 

can i temporarily run my car without it? the IAB solenoid that is... and the plug...

 

I have one I can sell you for cheep. Just IM me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have one I can sell you for cheep. Just IM me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a few... lol...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Advan06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i temporarily run my car without it? the IAB solenoid that is... and the plug...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yes it will run, but suck

 

OR you can do what is even better and run the vacuum line from the diaphram directly to the intake manifold and bypass the whole box complety

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OR you can do what is even better and run the vacuum line from the diaphram directly to the intake manifold and bypass the whole box complety </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i got the engine that way. it was bypassed but i was still wondering if it'd work. thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OR you can do what is even better and run the vacuum line from the diaphram directly to the intake manifold and bypass the whole box complety </TD></TR></TABLE>

what , no! thats a bad idea, the vacume cannister is there because as soon as the manifold presure changes to a lower presure vacume the higher vacume in the cansiter held in by the check valve, holds the IABS closed

if you hook it directly up, as soon as the vacume is too little the spring will over come the weak vacume, its also completely variable which produces no constant behavior

also the time that it would be worst is at WOT as soon as you mash the gas to wot at say 2k the IABs will instantly lose vacume and they will open and the car will fall on its face!

you need the vacume canister, any vacume canaster will work, and mostly any honda vacume solinoid will work to, do it the right way

 

What OBD diagram is this for turbogixxxer?. It seems theres another floating around similar to this but a few things missing like the starting air boost? Let me see if I could find the link

Here it is https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=385918
It's somewhere in the middle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duofilm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What OBD diagram is this for turbogixxxer?. It seems theres another floating around similar to this but a few things missing like the starting air boost? Let me see if I could find the link

Here it is https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=385918
It's somewhere in the middle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

both are for obd1 and probably even for the early obd2 h22s

but both are correct, some intake manifolds have the starting sir boost valve and some don't . the picture in the link you provided is from a helms manual which are the factory honda manuals, so it is correct,

 

thx for the info!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duofilm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What OBD diagram is this for turbogixxxer?. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry for the late reply, It is from a 5th gen prelude, there is a 4th gen. As prelittlelude pointed out about the starting valve.

 

I have the H22 dropped in my 99 accord. I do not have the plug to plug into the solenoid. I did some research here and I found that I use the wire from b16 i guess. I am not sure if i understood this correct. Any help would be nice.
Oh. I am using the accord OBD2 wire harness