1) I have been doing a little searching and researching and have come to a problem. people are saying that lsvtec and crvtec arent reliable and such. i even read that when built right you should only go up to about 7600 rpms with lsvtec. It stated that the ls is unstable at high rpms.
2) At the time now I have a b16 so i figuered more displacement would give me more power but the way honda motors are built correct me if i am wrong they make power through reving high. So if thats the case then going lsvtec would not be wise being i can only go to 7600 when a stock b16 wil go to 8200.

3) Ok for the same price that it would take for me to build my b20 or ls couldnt i get pistons and rods for my b16. like 84 mm or 84.5 and get the motor sleeved and a girdle.

4) Also isnt the r/s ratio of a b16 1.74:1 pretty good and lsvtec bad 1.54:1

I am trying to find info and facts not opinions on both the setups. I want to stay all motor and squeeze and use as a drag/ daily driver. Turbo is not an option. been there blown that. i am not going for whats the cheaper but of course not the most expensive i just want whats going to be more reliable and cost efficient.

 

Believe it or not there are many members on here that have very reliable LS and B20/VTEC's. A friend of mine built an LS/VTEC for auto-x and daily driver duty redlining at 9k. Right now, 2 years later, he's still on the same setup and still running strong. With that said I believe it would be better if you went with a LS or B20/VTEC setup for street/race duty. It is very difficult for a B16 to produce the torque figures these blocks can produce.

 

who says ls/vtec isnt realiable?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2-99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is very difficult for a B16 to produce the torque figures these blocks can produce.</TD></TR></TABLE> I know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncivic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who says ls/vtec isnt realiable?</TD></TR></TABLE> alot of threads i read on other forums and the internet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaoss_11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> alot of threads i read on other forums and the internet</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats because they(the sheep or followers) here about one persons failures, so they say all those motors are junk. Dont listen to so much hearsay and build what you want, like I stated, build the biggest motor you can within your budget. Remember, there will always be someone faster than you.

 

we have been running an LS/Vtec setup with OEM internals making 220whp and 145ftlbs do 12.2 in a 94 civic hb and a B20/Vtec setup making 225whp and 160ftlbs running 12.3 in a 91 rs integra.....both setups have been running strong all year and see a rev limit of 9200.....if built right these setup will last long, but when you have some guys that want to pinch Penny's and try and do it them self for the first time with used parts...IE head gasket...Ive seen it done....or they use some Home Depot oil line kit made from scratch with hose clamps...seen this done too.....then the setup starts to take a dive.....if people would just do it right the first time around and not worry about how much it will cost then the LS/Vtec wouldn't have such a bad name......by the way my wife's car had an LS vtec set up for 2 years and the only reason we had to take it out was because of a outer crower valve spring broke in half and dropped a valve.....

P.S. Ive had a car come in because it was leaking oil on the Ls/Vtec setup.....took the head off and found the oil passage in the head was pluged with a small bolt with the head cut off.......no type of sealent or thread tape......the problem with this type of pluging is that the bolt is not tapered so it will never seal and oil will leak past the threads......you need to use a tapered threaded pipe plug with a alen head so that is flush with the head and seals the passage with the taper......

 

thanks for the info