Brakes?
Quick question guys. When I got my new rex about 2 weeks ago, it needed the brakes to be bled. The brake pedal sinks after sitting on it for a few secs. After you pump it once though, it's fine. I have been driving with it doing this for the past week and a half (I know...stupid...very stupid....but I spent ALL my cash to get the car, and cant get them done right now). I bled the brakes after I got it, however the person I was with didn't know what they were doing and it didn't help. I went to my mechanic and he said it might be the master cylinder, but wasn't sure cuz he wasn't able to look at the car at the time. They still pump up pretty easily, so I am not sure what to do. Should I just drop a new master in there, or should I take it to a shop and get them pressure bled...then drop the master if they still are bad. The only reason I am hesitating to drop a master in right now is cuz he did the disc brake conversion on the back and my dad says they may need "pressurizers" in order to work correctly....I am not sure which brakes he put on the back..is there a common one people use when doing it on the back...and how much would this be to fix? How much does a master cylinder run for a 90 CRX Si w/ B16A?
Jonathan
Jonathan
hmmm... there might not be anything wrong. mine essentially do the same. the brake pedal will slowly go all the way to the floor if i push hard enough when i'm sitting at a stop light. i've mentioned this earlier here and someone replied with the same situation so i'm thinking its 'normal' for these cars.
as for the rear brakes, if the car orginally had drum brakes it most likely got upgraded to the Si rear brakes. the only 'pressurizers' that i can think that your dad is talkin about are the slave cylinders. those just need to match whatever master cylinder you use, as in if you're using a CRX master cylinder, use CRX slave cylinders; if integra master, use integra slaves.
as for the rear brakes, if the car orginally had drum brakes it most likely got upgraded to the Si rear brakes. the only 'pressurizers' that i can think that your dad is talkin about are the slave cylinders. those just need to match whatever master cylinder you use, as in if you're using a CRX master cylinder, use CRX slave cylinders; if integra master, use integra slaves.
the 90 si came with rear discs and there may be something wrong with ur master cylinder. cant tell unless i saw it do u know how to bleed brakes if so id try it again with someone in the car and u out side get a manuel (Helms) would help and bleed em good
Rotors....warped rotors. Take them to a brake shop and get them turned...cost me about $30 on my other CRX...you wont think you have the same car..
When I got the car from the guy he said that he did a conversion on the back. How can I tell if he put like Teg ones back there or what?
When I got the car from the guy he said that he did a conversion on the back. How can I tell if he put like Teg ones back there or what?
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#1 pelotudo
You need a new master cylinder! I had this identical problem and trust me, it's the cylinder. Don't worry about the slaves. I actually swapped my cylinder without bleeding the brakes (i was a learner and didn't like the car anyway). The new master worked like new but would have worked better assuming I did things properly. So ya, bleed them ******* and put a new master on, you'll be glad you did and you can even by rebuilt master cylinders.
#2
If you sit at a stop light and rest your foot on the brake and it does ANYTHING other than stay firm in one spot then you have break issues. If your pedal does any sinking of any kind you either have brake problems or you're a gorilla that wants his foot to go through the floorboards!
I hope I could be of some help. Oh yea.. aren't the rear discs on the 90-91 si's like 9" and the ones on the teg are like 10 or 10.5"?? I think I'm wrong but I remember someone saying something about the difference in size.
You need a new master cylinder! I had this identical problem and trust me, it's the cylinder. Don't worry about the slaves. I actually swapped my cylinder without bleeding the brakes (i was a learner and didn't like the car anyway). The new master worked like new but would have worked better assuming I did things properly. So ya, bleed them ******* and put a new master on, you'll be glad you did and you can even by rebuilt master cylinders.
#2
If you sit at a stop light and rest your foot on the brake and it does ANYTHING other than stay firm in one spot then you have break issues. If your pedal does any sinking of any kind you either have brake problems or you're a gorilla that wants his foot to go through the floorboards!
I hope I could be of some help. Oh yea.. aren't the rear discs on the 90-91 si's like 9" and the ones on the teg are like 10 or 10.5"?? I think I'm wrong but I remember someone saying something about the difference in size.
um, i've got a dumb question. What is a slave cylinder?? I can only guess that the slave cylinders in a brake system are... the caliper pistons, giving the master cylinder and the calipers a "master/slave" relationship..... ?????????
This might help explain it better than I can:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/brake3.htm
http://www.howstuffworks.com/brake3.htm
brand new rotors, thats the first thing i thought and hten i changed htem but still shakes like a damn plane landing...
mine does the same thing..
the steering and brake pedal vibrates when i brake the faster i go the worse it is.
and at low speeds it feels like its just got warped rotors.
i got a new set of slotted rotors but still need to put them on.
Make sure your alignment is good too. Bad alignment causes alot of shaking while braking also.
At least that is what cured it on my car in combination with new rotors and pads. Just a thought though.
At least that is what cured it on my car in combination with new rotors and pads. Just a thought though.
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