I am lookin to get a 92 hatch and want to do a swap..I am not sure if i should get a B16 or get a gsr motor or get a b18b and built that up? Later on i want to build up the motor to withstand like 20psi of boost...I am not sure of what to do because i'll have 4g cash and I need opinions from you smart people on what to do...Thanks people

 

early bump

 

I hear B18B + Turbo = Good Combo...

 

If you go allmotor...B18C1

If you go turbo get the B18b!

 

b18b is better for turbo ONLY on the condition that you are using stock internals on all the engines. if you ask Mase, he will tell you that most heavily built honda engines are the vtec engines. my friend that has a 400+ hp ls/vtec integra also noted that when he was getting his engine tuned, most of the ls engines that were boosting were making the most significant amount of power when they had to shift to the next gear (opposed to vtec engines in some way i suppose.

i dunno...i'm still getting a b18b because it fits my budget.

 

If you can afford it, go B18C. Simply put, you can't even get a B16A to equal a B18C for the price difference between the two. So if you have the cash to do so, go with the B18C right off the bat.

 

take a look at cheesefrog's EK set-up it's ****** smokin.

http://www.cheesefrog.com/modu...m.php

yea i know that dude allen has a turboed b18c1, but with the extra g you'll be spendin on the b18c1 you could put towards a turbo for the b18b. just my opinion.

oh and if you click on the link be sure to check the vids out they're pretty sweet.

 

B18b and the money u save start a mild build! Or H22 it

 

Ok so i decided to get a B18B and then build it up...Go with the ls or gsr trans? I will have about 4000 left for the buildup...considering finding a bubble for 1500..I live in NJ...anybody know a good shop that can do the work for me? and can really trust them? I live in sayreville,woodbridge area...Aslo where can i get a legit B18B wit trans for cheap? Thanks every1 for the help....HT is the shizznit yo

 

you don't think for a g more you wouldn't be able to build up a b16a like a b18c1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makavali27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok so i decided to get a B18B and then build it up...Go with the ls or gsr trans? I will have about 4000 left for the buildup...considering finding a bubble for 1500..I live in NJ...anybody know a good shop that can do the work for me? and can really trust them? I live in sayreville,woodbridge area...Aslo where can i get a legit B18B wit trans for cheap? Thanks every1 for the help....HT is the shizznit yo </TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a b16 tranny(HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) ! Or if one cant be found go GSR!

If my buddy still has his B16 tranny for sale, he only wants $600 and his in Roanoke, VA! PM me for my email address and I will give you his email and phone#!

Also $4000 budget for a build on an LS! Damn son you can have one bad *** motor and still have money leftover!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6_tuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't think for a g more you wouldn't be able to build up a b16a like a b18c1</TD></TR></TABLE>

Waste of time IMO! Just buy a GSR in that case, and then build from there!

 

If your plans are to run 20 psi+ of boost then there's no reason to spend the extra amount on a more expensive motor only to completely tear it down for a build up only to reuse the block, crank and maybe the head. My advice is, if a built motor is what you want then do that from the start. Get yourself an older B18A block for about 200 or so, sleeve and build it either with a VTEC or nonVTEC head. You could build an LSVTEC to withstand the 20 psi you want to run for roughly about 2,500. The rest you have leftover you can get the tranny and all other parts necessary. Of course if you can find a relatively cheap full swap and get most of the parts you need from that then go for it.

 

Yea since im gonna built the motor i'll get a b18, now does it matter if i get one from a 92 teg? its all the same right? also anybody have a b18 layin around which is ok condition?

 

does anyone know a good shop for me to do all this work? i live in NJ

 

there isn't any difference between the 91 teg to the newer generation?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makavali27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there isn't any difference between the 91 teg to the newer generation? </TD></TR></TABLE>

There are minor differences in the 90-91 and 92-93 Integra's. 90-91 were OBD0 and 92-93 were OBD1, but all the minor differences are features that wouldn't affect block choice. 90-93 are B18A1, 94-01 are B18B1 - same blocks. If you're going for a full build and sleeve, the only thing to really concern you would be block condition (cracks, damage, etc.) and possibly the crank if you plan to reuse it, which a lot of people do. Check the classifieds, local salvage yards, etc. you should have no problem finding a B18A or even a B18B bottom end in good useable condition for $200-300.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makavali27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there isn't any difference between the 91 teg to the newer generation? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes they have minor differences! You may want to go with a B18b b/c the head flows a little better, and you can bore the TB out to 64mm unlike the earlier model which you can only go to 62mm! The IM's are different but you will want to replace that anyway for a better flowing IM! This goes for the cams too! There are slight differences but replace those too for some Crower 402T's!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6_tuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't think for a g more you wouldn't be able to build up a b16a like a b18c1</TD></TR></TABLE>

For $1000, you might be able to close the power gap. But there is no way you are going to be able to close the torque gap. And let's not forget ultimate potential.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For $1000, you might be able to close the power gap. But there is no way you are going to be able to close the torque gap. And let's not forget ultimate potential.</TD></TR></TABLE>