Ok so I got the knuckles and brakes on. All new nuts and bolts

I am wondering how I know if the upper ball joint on the upper control arm is fugged or not. I looked at it before installing and there was a grease coming out of it. The seal on the bottom was not a perfect circle and when I pressed the ball joint more grease came out. So I guess I'm wondering if that ball joint needs to be replaced.

I have brand new lowers and they did not seem to do that with the grease and all so I think they might be toast.

My other question is if it is safe to rewire the abs sensors. The sensors themselves are there, but they have been cut. So would it be dangerous to splice and solder the two wires per sensor???? The five lug came with the sensor and about 10" of the wiring and the thieves left me about 6" of wiring on the wiring coming from the engine bay. So is this doable? Or am I trying to save 170 bucks in the wrong place?

With my 20% off at the dealer it is 80 for the driver and 92 for the passenger side sensor.

Let me know what you guys think. Any places to get them used? ITR is different than other integra ABS sensors.

 

they're different? i forgot about that i guess..

for $172, i'd try to rewire them.. worst case, when you start the car, it'll throw an ABS code and you have to get new ones.. it's not like they're hard to replace later or anything..

as for the upper ball joint, if the joint itself is fine, you could just order the boot and circlip and replace that.. to replace that joint, you have to replace the entire upper control arm(commonly called the a-arm).. is there a lot of play in the balljoint? as in, is it easy to move by hand? is the boot torn at all? if either of these apply, it could be due for replacement..

 

Agree. Try rewiring first. Use a good solder joint and preferably a heat-shrink wrap for the splice's. With the dirt, rain and heat electrical tape will eventually peal off.

 

Thanks for the replies. The boot is not torn on the ball joint and it is still resistant against movement which is like they were from the factory, but maybe I need to get a pic.

On the lower side of the ball joint where the threads come out of it, the circular seal is all wavy looking and I can squeeze grease out of the joint.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the replies. The boot is not torn on the ball joint and it is still resistant against movement which is like they were from the factory, but maybe I need to get a pic.

On the lower side of the ball joint where the threads come out of it, the circular seal is all wavy looking and I can squeeze grease out of the joint.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would consider replacing the boot and regreasing then.. will only help it last longer and they only cost a few $$..

 

If you have to replace that ball joint, I think that you have to get the entire upper control arm assembly with the ball joint already installed. It is easier to replace the entire control arm then pressing out a ball joint imo.

 

Like everyone says, I would replace the entire upper control arm with the bad joint. I also wouldn't hesitate to rewire the abs. Just make the splice rugged and weather-tight, check for codes and test your abs by trying to lock up your brakes.

 

Well I have some Omni power camber kits I was going to sell for the front, but I guess I have to use em now. Oh well.

I need to modify them so that they don't slip though. THey are identical to the Skunks in design so I don't want to have any headaches later on.

Anyone have the link to how to modify them not to slip?


-So changing the allen head bolts to normal 10.8 grade 10mm bolts
-dremeling off the paint on both sides of the tracks
-getting a larger OEM ball joint boot

possibly needing to angle grind the corners of the arms.....ehhhh so much hassle.


Modified by jdmspoonitr at 11:50 AM 12/1/2004

 

are they designed like the 1st or 2nd generations of skunk2 camber arms?

 

1st gen