I searched this forum for the dreaded surging idle. Mine does the same also...sometimes when I push my clutch in to stop at a light it jumps from 1000 - 2000 up and down and it drives me nuts. I did see it could be a vac leak... its not I replaced all my hoses and they are fine. Coolent bubble, i did open the bleed valve and no air bubbles came out so I am guessing thats a no, the other part on the intake manifold I forget the name, that could be it also, but not sure if there is anything else I should check for that idle problem.

Now the the lights dimming. I set my idle around 900 before it was set ay 750 and everytime I would push my clutch in to stop the rpms would drop to 1000 or whatever and the lights would dim and then the rpms would go back up...I checked alot of things including raising my idle and it still does it. Could this be a timing issue because I brought it to a shop to get work done and ever since they shanged my idle and stuff I think they did my timing also, and was wondering if that could be a timing issue or something else.

Thanks.

 

dont know if this will help u but it helped me.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1069005

 

I've experienced surging idle twice. Once when I was low on coolant and another time when a vaccuum line was disconnected. I can't think of any other reason for a surging idle.

 

fast idle thermal valve and idle air control valve

 

Thanks guys... you know what I think it might be that number 8 thing since I have a CAI and I believe it started when I installed it and took that number 8 out and capped it... I am gonna take that whole box out and just cap the end closest to the IM and see what happens. I would of never thought about that. Thanks!

What about the second part though about the lights dimming... anyone?

 

try to cap that thing off it should fix the power drain causeing the lights to dim.

 

Nice! Or I can just play with my MIG welder hehehe thanks

 

well its not that hose number 8 and it still does it. I dont think the H22a has a fast idle control valve? but the IAC is that bx on the intake manifold right that has an electric plug correct? If the h22 has a fast idle where is it?

Thanks

 

what the hole already pluged if not when u stuck your finger over it did the idle change?

FACV- Is under the throtel body
IACV is on the front side of the intake manifold with a senosor on it that plugs into the injectors.

Do you still have your h23 intake manifoild if so. Take the h23 SI throtel body off of it and use it and the facv and the iacv.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tronix102 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys... you know what I think it might be that number 8 thing since I have a CAI and I believe it started when I installed it and took that number 8 out and capped it... I am gonna take that whole box out and just cap the end closest to the IM and see what happens. I would of never thought about that. Thanks!

What about the second part though about the lights dimming... anyone?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you install any aftermarket pulleys?

 

that has some effect bustdesenuts but not most his issue is the surge drains the power causing the lights to dim but i think he is fixing the issue somewhat now he just needs to adjust the idle screw now i think.

 

Yes the hole on hose 8 was already plugged when I installed a CAI. I dont have my h23 manifold. No pulleys installed. I'm stumped. I did start the car when I unpluged the IAC and it ran shitty, then I reset the ecu and pluged it back in and it ran fine but as soon as I start driving it for a few min the stupid crap goes back to surging and lights dim, feels like its gonna stall etc. I did raise the idle to 1000 with the adjusting screw and still nothing ... argggg *shoots it*

 

facv could be untighted causing the car tol idle ruff after its warmed up. Try undoing the facv off the tb and tightening like this.



#13 - FACV

If you look in the area of the facv in this picture u will see a #2 on the FACV that is like a cap held on by 2 phlips head screws take that cap off and you will see a white plastic piece inside with 2 large slots . If u take a screw driver and press on one of the slots and push it into the tighten position until its all the way tightened it should fix your facv issue. If thats the issue.

 

try cleaning the iac with carb cleaner and reset the computer at the same time. you could also try a propane enrichment test, by spraying propane around where you think you have a vaccum leak and if the idle corrects itself then that is the prolblem

 

Well I took my TB off and I tightened the Fast Idle Control Valve...start it up runs perfect...but the check engine comes on, reset the ecu, drive it around for about ten miles and the check engine light is still on, but it DOESNT surge at all, so I was happy...i get home I see I forgot to plug in the TPS plug. As soon as I plug in the TPS it starts to surge again... so I'm guessing the TPS is bad? Can I drive with the TPS wire disconnected because it runs better lol

 

It's your car, you can do whatever you want.

fs

 

yah but i'm asking if its bad to run it with out the TPS connected

 

it won't be bad, but it will run like ****

 

well it runs like **** when the TPS is connected though LOL and with it not connected it runs perfect...the idle may be a little high but it doesnt surge anymore.

 

Does this fluctation in rev still occur after your car has warmed up to optimal tempreature?

If so...

You could be starting your car with your heater on. And if you are, there is a possibility that you have a bunch of coolant in your heater core, and the coolant isn't correctly circulating through the car. But I am not sure if coolant would sit in the heater core while the engine is off, i'm assuming it does. Try turning keeping your heater off and then trying your coolant bleeder.