hey guys... I put a 5 lug swap on my 5th gen accord... replaced the booster, master cylinder, and proportioniong valve.... well i think i kinked a line somewhere... its such a pain to deal with the hard lines when the engine is in.. I want to replace all the hard lines with some custom stainless steel lines.... flexibility is so much easier to deal with. hopefully one of you can point me in the right directiojn

 

http://www.eraceparts.com sells goodridge for $100 shipped

 

check lightningmotorsports they have some good deals also

 

i'm not looking to replace the little short lines... I want to replace from the proportioning valve back

 

honda dealer..ive never seen stainless steel lines,only hoses.you are gonna have to custom do it.buy some fittings for the proportioning valve,then connect the hoses to those fittings. http://www.pitstopusa.com then go to plumbing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordm3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> well i think i kinked a line somewhere... </TD></TR></TABLE>

not trying to get off your subject but why do you think you kinked a line? Trouble getting brakes to bleed? No rear brakes? no Front brakes? just curious...

 

my brakes have been an absolute nightmare. my accord has been sitting for 2 years because of them. I either am going to have to drop the engine and fix the lines or get stainless steel lines. I know someone has to make them... alot of race cars do this to get rid of the abs crap. my car has 100% brake pressure with the car off... once you turn it on... it loses 90% of the pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordm3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> my accord has b. my car has 100% brake pressure with the car off... once you turn it on... it loses 90% of the pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you checking it with a gauge? or is the pedal firm until you crank the car up. If that is the case then it is still not bled thoroughly. I assume you are wanting you replace the hard lines? most chassis builders I know don't use the stainless stuff.. its to hard to bend and work with. They use the lines you can buy at a local parts store.

 

are you sure its even your lines?do u see the kink?do u know the hoses arent soft or damaged?are your calipers in good shape,pistons are not leaking?when u replaced the booster and master cyclinder did u space the pushrod correctly?did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing?

 

to be quite honest I think that the lines arent screwed in good into the proportioning valve... its VERY difficult getting them in good in such a small working area. as far as the rod in the master cylinder.. I bought this off a salvaged 5th gen prelude.. so i assume its exactly where it needs to be. I cant find anyone in my area that knows A WHOLE LOT about brakes

 

did u bench bleed the master cyclinder before installing?

 

yes sir... and i have bled all the calipers extensively... absolutely 0 air

 

i dont htink i even know the problem..what does the pedal feel like when you push it?

 

with the car turned off.. its as stiff as can be... has like maybe 1" of give... but when u crank the car on... it goes straight to the floor when u push it

 

do u know about clamping the hoses and finding the problem?

 

no i do not... enlighten me

 

clamp off all your brake hoses about 2 inches up the hose from the caliper with brake clamps...then press the brake,it should be hard.if it is not hard you have a bad master cylinder

start removing 1 clamp at a time,after each clamp u take off,press the brake pedal,it should be hard,if it gets softer,there is a problem with those brakes.do that with each side and you should find the problem

doing this with the car off

i didnt explain that well but do you understand or do you want me to explain it more?

 

like i said it has great pressure with the car turned off

 

well good luck finding your problem then,do what i said and you should find the problem.thats why you havent done anything about it yet,you dont do procedures to figure it out

do it with the car running if you would like...

 

not sure how to FIX your problem, but I would highly recommend AGAINST using stainless steel brake hoses instead of the hard lines. hard lines last a very long time. the problem with the steel-braided hoses is that there is rubber under there and they are just wrapped with a steel mesh. so if one starts to crack or deteriorate, you won't know just by looking at it. I was doing research on SS brake lines...a lot of people on here seem to think they are the best thing since sliced bread, but when I asked around the mustang forum I hang out at, most people were against them. and this is from people who are not about clear taillights and chameleon paint jobs. they are guys who use what works because it works.

also, the hard lines can be pretty inexpensive. you can buy the stock and get a pipe bender and fab your own if the stock ones aren't lining up right.

sorry for the long post, just don't want to see you make more problems for yourself than you really need.

 

Not sure about others, after i changed to APP brakelines, i feels its response turns a little bit slower(or lighter), but after 1/2 way down the brake pedal, it start to grip more firm then my stock rubber hose



here is my set up, DC2 5 lug conversion and APP brake lines.