Any Ideas on this O2 problem?
Ever since the swaping of my engine I have had an O2 sensor CEL. It is the code one, and I even used to have 42(whatever the code is for a heated O2).
Basically I NEVER see the light on until I REALLY beat on the car or 90% of the time once I go over 110mph then the cel pops up. No real performance dampening, if anything it fells like slight bogging.
I have tried both universal and OEM O2 sensors, and neither have worked. I should have known that would be the case becasue the O2 light is never on when I start the car.
I had to cut the female piece that is on the engine side of the harness and re-soldered it back on. Aside from that I am pretty sure that the wires are hooked up to te ecu correctly.
Heres the only solution that I see possible. I guess I will have to recut the female peice off of my wiring harness and solder it on four new wires that I will run directly to the ecu. I havn't checked the helms to see if there are any other leads off of these, but I don't think there are.
I have had this problem for way too long and like to see if I can grab some extra mpgs to save my $.
Is this the right thing to do? Any other suggestions or ways about doing this?
TIA, Matt
Basically I NEVER see the light on until I REALLY beat on the car or 90% of the time once I go over 110mph then the cel pops up. No real performance dampening, if anything it fells like slight bogging.
I have tried both universal and OEM O2 sensors, and neither have worked. I should have known that would be the case becasue the O2 light is never on when I start the car.
I had to cut the female piece that is on the engine side of the harness and re-soldered it back on. Aside from that I am pretty sure that the wires are hooked up to te ecu correctly.
Heres the only solution that I see possible. I guess I will have to recut the female peice off of my wiring harness and solder it on four new wires that I will run directly to the ecu. I havn't checked the helms to see if there are any other leads off of these, but I don't think there are.
I have had this problem for way too long and like to see if I can grab some extra mpgs to save my $.
Is this the right thing to do? Any other suggestions or ways about doing this?
TIA, Matt
open up the hlems and go thru the test procedure for testing the ecu, you need to test at the ecu to see if your wires are correct, my gues is your wiring job is in correct, or your soldering job sucks,
as long as you didn't screw witht he engine wiring harness at the ecu when you swaped your motr then you must have a open in the wire, follow the helms and get it fixed, with a code 1 you run as rich and with retarted timing, and it runs like donkey *****.
as long as you didn't screw witht he engine wiring harness at the ecu when you swaped your motr then you must have a open in the wire, follow the helms and get it fixed, with a code 1 you run as rich and with retarted timing, and it runs like donkey *****.
[QUOTE=prelittlelude]
as long as you didn't screw witht he engine wiring harness at the ecu when you swaped your motr then you must have a open in the wire.[QUOTE]
what do you mean by that? either way the problem has to be somewhere in the O2 wiring area, right?
As far as testing the ecu, i assume the directions are self expllanitory in the helms? Do I use a voltage meter to measure continuity? Also this will sound dumb, but what setting do I set it to read on the voltage meter?
as long as you didn't screw witht he engine wiring harness at the ecu when you swaped your motr then you must have a open in the wire.[QUOTE]
what do you mean by that? either way the problem has to be somewhere in the O2 wiring area, right?
As far as testing the ecu, i assume the directions are self expllanitory in the helms? Do I use a voltage meter to measure continuity? Also this will sound dumb, but what setting do I set it to read on the voltage meter?
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