I'm looking to get a camber kit for my EG, do you guys recommend the A arm replacements, or just the little adapters that go on your stock A arms? Also what do you guys do for the rears. Let me know, I have some new suspension I want to put on, but want to do it right.


Thanks, Josh

 

i am using skunk 2 and i likes them alot

 

OMNI

 

Depends on your budget and your application.

 

Progress...its cheap but hey at least my tires are good now

 

skunk2/omni for the front.

srr out back.

 

spc all the way. they are coming out with front upper arm in aluminujm with cast and camber adjustment up to 4 degrees.

if you cant wait spc sells a replacment ball joint that is is camber adjustable for the front. i am very happy withier products.

 

I have the Revo Technia kit on my TEG....its just like the Skunk. I like that it came with the ball joint. Was a great deal, from Robear Racing.

Although, I need to get the Aluminum SPC one, with caster adjustment, since the caster is 1 degree off on the integra.

 

r1 camber kits are cheap and they do the job ive had mine for 3 years and my tires last just as long as their rated too.

 

What did you guys do for the rear? I have looked at Skunk2 and Revo fronts..rears I was just gonna grab something from ebay.


Josh

 

3 washers, 12 alltogether

 

washers are retarded.

spend the 50 or 100 bucks on an adjustable arm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkyeC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">washers are retarded.

spend the 50 or 100 bucks on an adjustable arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>OK, whos retarded?$2dollars for washers or 50 to 100 bucks for an adjustable arm,u get the same results.there is no differance,other than cosmetic.

 

well the adjustable arm like srr ones comes with stiffer poly bushings its more accurate in terms of adjustability. so i dont see how its retarded. cost more yes. i would spend they extra for it. in fact i plan to in the spring.

 

I know you want to do it right, but unless you are dropping a lot.. you may want to read this. It is about how camber isnt really necessary to adjust for tire wear is you want it for that, it says TOE is the evil one. But eh whatever.. it also says that camber is good for setting up for races but thats about all... it depends, but this thread is a lot more informative than I am.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=811268&page=1

 

If your car is out of alignment in Toe, that will kill tires in no time.

But when you push how many miles you can put on your tires, camber means a lot. It also will mean how much grip you have for cornering. Negative camber will give you less surface area when you drive straight, but more for cornering, which is why most road race cars run about -5 degrees camber.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkyeC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">washers are retarded.</TD></TR></TABLE>
um, okay, go ahead and make fun of people less fortunate as you.

Omni Power &gt; skunk2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9hatch0WN3R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, okay, go ahead and make fun of people less fortunate as you.

Omni Power &gt; skunk2</TD></TR></TABLE>


hahaha.

An SRR rear camber kit is under $100. If you can't afford that, you need to stop diddling around with car mods.

I race my car, and I only feel comfortable racing it on quality parts that I know work. Hmm, adjustable arms with poly bushings or some washers and longer bolts? Nevermind it is way easier for my alignment guy to adjust a tie rod arm than it is for him to unbolt two bolts and mess around with washers.

 

My Omni's are great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your car is out of alignment in Toe, that will kill tires in no time.

But when you push how many miles you can put on your tires, camber means a lot. It also will mean how much grip you have for cornering. Negative camber will give you less surface area when you drive straight, but more for cornering, which is why most road race cars run about -5 degrees camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont forget it depends a lot on the sidewall... tires are rubber, not steel... they bend to still contact all of the road. as long as the side wall isnt too thin to do so.

 

ok me personally,i dont have a problem spending money on quality parts.i was just trying to help out dmxsoulja3.he said he was just gonna grab something from ebay.so that gave me tha impression that hes on a budget.i do agree an adjustable arm is easier & quicker for any adjustments.now that we've all have given our 2cents hopefully the creator of this post will make a good decision. i totally agree also if ur going to b in this scene,plan to spend a good some of money.i know i have