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9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need?

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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 10:32 PM
  #1  
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Default 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need?

I have a B18B with Crower 403's, bolt-ons and fuel tuning on a stock block right now, making 148whp/126wtq. I'm thinking about doing a B20 block with 11.0 or so compression, but I'm not sure if the rest of what I have will be up to the task.

With the new block and keeping the stock 6900rpm redline, how badly would I need:
-Head port/polish (stock now... with higher compression, 2.0L and big cams would this be a huge weak link even with stock redline?)
-Bigger header (currently USDM DC 4-2-1... that 2" collector is rather small)
-Bigger cat (currently 2.25" Carsound)
-Bigger/less restrictive exhaust (currently A'pexi WS with 2.36" piping and chambered muffler)
-Bigger TB (currently have stock, but another stock LS TB lying around)
-Fuel pump (stock LS pump is already pushing 47psi as it is!)

How necessary is all this stuff? I want to do the block but won't have enough money to replace all this stuff at the same time... I don't want to spend a ton of money on the block and just see it be completely choked off. Would these parts I have now be super-restrictive or merely a bit short of ideal but not too bad? It seems like all this stuff would be really restrictive to the new block, but I do hear about all those near-stock B20s making great power....

One last thing... I'm looking at ImportBuilder's Econo block. $1500 shipped with new bearings/seals, cleaned and honed, with new pistons, core required. That sounds a bit pricey but #1 on my list is RELIABILITY and I trust IB... is there another shop that is known for QUALITY work that would do it for less? Because $1500 seems good until you realize that they really aren't doing/supplying a whole lot.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 12:28 AM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (White98LS)

Dude, honestly if the B20 block is built right clearances are right, aftermarket rods, balanced crank a good block to start with 84.5mm or so sleeve 11:0:1 c/r it should do fine, key is to have it done right but you know that. My setup for my CR/VTEC is B20B block 84.5mm bore, JE 11:0:1 pistons, Eagle Rods, ARP Rod/main/headstuds, cometic head gasket, the 2000 ITR head off my LS/VTEC, new oil pump with prodrive oil pump gear, new GSR water pump, magnafluxed crank balanced crank, clevite main and rod bearings, bored/honed/hot tanked zyglowed block, and absolutely every tolerance and clearance has been checked several times by a pro, new timing belt tensioner, new timing belt and it will spin fine to 8500rpm possibly 9000rpm, a block girdle is a good idea but it really isn't "Necessary" for a street engine several run fine without them my buddys 11 second all motor 2.0L LS/VTEC didn't run one and it was an all out drag car that never saw the street and they never once had an engine problem...it was sleeved...with 14:0:1 IB Wiseco superdupers and other ****...but anyway a setup similar to mine will be fine for your street usage but sleeves are always a good idea however if your talking sleeves don't bother buying a B20 block just sleeve the B18B to 84.5mm and a block girdle and it will be much much stronger, as for the LS head I still don't believe in All motor LS but you've had great success with it and I suggest you keep it up. PM me on sometime on SH0 if you want to get more details
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 12:42 AM
  #3  
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (CRVTEC0WNZJ00)

Cool thanks. Actually Jeff just sweetened up the deal and included forged rods/pistons in there. So I really really really wanna do it!!!

I'm staying non-VTEC, too much cost/complexity for me with VTEC. I would have to buy a whole lot of new parts (basically start from scratch) if I were to go that route. Plus I love it when people at autocrosses ask me if I have a small turbo setup and I tell them it's not even VTEC haha.

I figure with this setup, I'll be good for ~170whp, 140+wtq, and a broad powerband with big-time midrange - exactly what I want for autocross.

Any thoughts on the restrictions I listed? I don't know what fuel pump to get - I've read that the GS-R stock pump flows far more than the LS one, but I never see people swapping them in - any reason why? I know aftermarket ones are cheap but you can count on stock to work right all the time.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 11:59 AM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (White98LS)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

With the new block and keeping the stock 6900rpm redline, how badly would I need:
-Head port/polish (stock now... with higher compression, 2.0L and big cams would this be a huge weak link even with stock redline?)
-Bigger header (currently USDM DC 4-2-1... that 2" collector is rather small)
-Bigger cat (currently 2.25" Carsound)
-Bigger/less restrictive exhaust (currently A'pexi WS with 2.36" piping and chambered muffler)
-Bigger TB (currently have stock, but another stock LS TB lying around)
-Fuel pump (stock LS pump is already pushing 47psi as it is!)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Head porting...Good!

Cams...Crower or cranecams

Bigger header...try JDm ITR 4-1(2.5" collector) This what I use

Exhaust... Go 2.5" piping, get a high flow cat and good flowing exhaust!

TB...Maxbore.com, $100 for 62 to 64mm

Fuel pump...stock is fine, I had a Walboro and it was too much for it(I had 55psi on my guage, not good )
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 01:17 PM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (hybrid_vtec)

I've ran a B20 with stock rods and bolts for well over a year shifting at 9500 with no probs.


I would run a DC JDMITR 4.1 and a 70mm t-body. I wouldnt really worry that much about exhaust.
I like the Crane #20's.

Keep up the good work
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (nonvtecallmotor)

But then you're talking going from a bigger collector to a smaller B-pipe... not good in theory.

I already have the Crower 403s and plan on sticking with em. That's amazing the B20 lasted shifting at 9500!! Good to hear.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 01:32 PM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (White98LS)

Just put the bigger flange on that pipe. Its not that big of a deal. Plus the cams that your useing not going to really need that big of an exhaust.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 01:37 PM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (nonvtecallmotor)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've ran a B20 with stock rods and bolts for well over a year shifting at 9500 with no probs.


I would run a DC JDMITR 4.1 and a 70mm t-body. I wouldnt really worry that much about exhaust.
I like the Crane #20's.

Keep up the good work </TD></TR></TABLE>


70mm TB!?! DAMN!
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 01:42 PM
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (hybrid_vtec)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


70mm TB!?! DAMN! </TD></TR></TABLE>I've ran it on my other motors and loved it.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 02:12 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: 9.2 CR B18B --> 11.0 CR B20... what else do I need? (nonvtecallmotor)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've ran it on my other motors and loved it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I always thought it would be too big! Never tried it so I can not comment!
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