Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!!
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From: Gainesville, GA, 30506
Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!!
Here's the cure for what screwed us on our 13hr enduro run.
It'll get tested in a street car next week to see if there's any belt-wear issues.
It'll get tested in a street car next week to see if there's any belt-wear issues.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gainesville, GA, 30506
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...either that or just run a smaller amp for the stereo? 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah, I just don't want to do a lap of VIR in pitch blackness with no lights and a dying ignition. We're setting it up with a toggle switch so that only one is producing power at a time. If the voltage drops just flip the switch.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nah, I just don't want to do a lap of VIR in pitch blackness with no lights and a dying ignition. We're setting it up with a toggle switch so that only one is producing power at a time. If the voltage drops just flip the switch.
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Raceworks)
Why wouldn't you just run a higher capacity alternator instead of the added complexity and weight of a second?
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Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think they want redundancy, not higher capacity...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hands down , funniest thing I've read all week.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hands down , funniest thing I've read all week.
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From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Doctor CorteZ)
90 watts of alternating power, babeeee!
By the way - A BIG thanks to Sam and the Raceworks crew for coming to our rescue with some stiffer springs for the back of the Golf, after the open test day at the 13 Hours.
K
By the way - A BIG thanks to Sam and the Raceworks crew for coming to our rescue with some stiffer springs for the back of the Golf, after the open test day at the 13 Hours.
K
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gainesville, GA, 30506
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Crack Monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why wouldn't you just run a higher capacity alternator instead of the added complexity and weight of a second?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Capacity wasn't the problem.
When we took the failed alternator we discovered a wire had an internal failure (a wire broke). What compounded the problem was the fact that the stock location (buried underneath the intake manifold) makes it a huge pain in the *** to get at.
Like I said, we'll field test it to see if it works well or is too much of a headache.
As far as the complextiy goes, the only thing it needs extra is two wires and a switch. If anything, we'll just run the alternator on the "front" position instead. That way it's about 500x easier to get at.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">90 watts of alternating power, babeeee!</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was a rather nice set-up, I believe it lit up the whole back straight the minute you came out of Oak Tree.
Capacity wasn't the problem.
When we took the failed alternator we discovered a wire had an internal failure (a wire broke). What compounded the problem was the fact that the stock location (buried underneath the intake manifold) makes it a huge pain in the *** to get at.
Like I said, we'll field test it to see if it works well or is too much of a headache.
As far as the complextiy goes, the only thing it needs extra is two wires and a switch. If anything, we'll just run the alternator on the "front" position instead. That way it's about 500x easier to get at.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">90 watts of alternating power, babeeee!</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was a rather nice set-up, I believe it lit up the whole back straight the minute you came out of Oak Tree.
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From: Pleasanton, Ca
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Crack Monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why wouldn't you just run a higher capacity alternator instead of the added complexity and weight of a second?</TD></TR></TABLE>
higher capacity alternator = greater chance of failure ! trust me on that one!
higher capacity alternator = greater chance of failure ! trust me on that one!
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Knestis)
Don't all the WRC teams run 2 electrical systems? That they can switch with simply a flip of a toggle? Sounds like a good idea to me.
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Raceworks)
Next question - is this even legal? I don't recall the H1 rules explicitly allowing you to move components - but I suppose if your replacing the engine, you could claim it was a required change to make the new block fit?
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Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Knestis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That doesn't make any sense. Why?
K</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could be build quality, could be a heat factor. But every time I have installed a high amp alt on a Honda(that fit into the stock location), it has failed pretty quickly. Evey one of them had internal failures. I have tired 3 different brands.
I really like the dual alt setup. If one fails you have the other as a backup, plus you have twice the current potential.
K</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could be build quality, could be a heat factor. But every time I have installed a high amp alt on a Honda(that fit into the stock location), it has failed pretty quickly. Evey one of them had internal failures. I have tired 3 different brands.
I really like the dual alt setup. If one fails you have the other as a backup, plus you have twice the current potential.
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From: Gainesville, GA, 30506
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Crack Monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Next question - is this even legal? I don't recall the H1 rules explicitly allowing you to move components - but I suppose if your replacing the engine, you could claim it was a required change to make the new block fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, it's not for the sprint races, so it's kind of a moot point. In H1, it wouldn't be legal because of the "if the rulebook says you can't do it, it's illegal" policy. However, I doubt anyone would complain since it's not a performance edge. It's extra weight and in a half hour race the battery might last long enough anyway.
In enduros, the car runs in ITE (SCCA) or E0 (NASA), both of which are pretty much "run what ya brung" classes.
Well, it's not for the sprint races, so it's kind of a moot point. In H1, it wouldn't be legal because of the "if the rulebook says you can't do it, it's illegal" policy. However, I doubt anyone would complain since it's not a performance edge. It's extra weight and in a half hour race the battery might last long enough anyway.
In enduros, the car runs in ITE (SCCA) or E0 (NASA), both of which are pretty much "run what ya brung" classes.
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From: Gainesville, GA, 30506
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (vapor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vapor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yikes! how many light units are you running? If in the budget, have you considered HID units?</TD></TR></TABLE>
HID might actually be a good idea. We had the stock headlights, two poin-point beams, and two fog lights (the auxiliary lights were 55w each). We are going to a different light set-up because the lights weren't quite bright enough. In the dark we couldn't see far enough ahead going into the uphill esses. We ended up using some cones off to driver's right as a reference to turn in.
If you read farther up the idea is to have a reduntant system. The alternator failed on us physically (broken wire in the internals). The problem was that in the stock location it's an absolute bitch to get to. At the very least, I wanted to run one in the "new" location so it would be easier to change. Then I figured why not run both (with only one "on" at a time) and not have to stop at all if one goes out. If they both die, then you just change the front one out and lose maybe 5 minutes.
HID might actually be a good idea. We had the stock headlights, two poin-point beams, and two fog lights (the auxiliary lights were 55w each). We are going to a different light set-up because the lights weren't quite bright enough. In the dark we couldn't see far enough ahead going into the uphill esses. We ended up using some cones off to driver's right as a reference to turn in.
If you read farther up the idea is to have a reduntant system. The alternator failed on us physically (broken wire in the internals). The problem was that in the stock location it's an absolute bitch to get to. At the very least, I wanted to run one in the "new" location so it would be easier to change. Then I figured why not run both (with only one "on" at a time) and not have to stop at all if one goes out. If they both die, then you just change the front one out and lose maybe 5 minutes.
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From: Elkton, MD, 21921
Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Raceworks)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Raceworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, it's not for the sprint races, so it's kind of a moot point. In H1, it wouldn't be legal because of the "if the rulebook says you can't do it, it's illegal" policy. However, I doubt anyone would complain since it's not a performance edge. It's extra weight and in a half hour race the battery might last long enough anyway.
In enduros, the car runs in ITE (SCCA) or E0 (NASA), both of which are pretty much "run what ya brung" classes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i totally agree with sam on the H1 ruling; no one would ever protest you for running two alts; that would be totally ridiculous!
and on the subject of the high capacity units blowing up; i wouldn't be surprised if it was heat related; ever look at the newer BMWs with the higher amp alts? they have a kind of "ram air" ducting hose that pulls in outside air and ducts it directly to the windings on the alt. pretty nifty!
on the hondas (b series anyway) the damn thing is under the intake manifold; the big race headers run under that motor and i'd imagine it gets pretty hot in there with minimal airflow. with a high current alt, minimal airflow, and heavy draw; well, that might spell disaster for the alt....
your design looks cool, sam!
todd
Well, it's not for the sprint races, so it's kind of a moot point. In H1, it wouldn't be legal because of the "if the rulebook says you can't do it, it's illegal" policy. However, I doubt anyone would complain since it's not a performance edge. It's extra weight and in a half hour race the battery might last long enough anyway.
In enduros, the car runs in ITE (SCCA) or E0 (NASA), both of which are pretty much "run what ya brung" classes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i totally agree with sam on the H1 ruling; no one would ever protest you for running two alts; that would be totally ridiculous!
and on the subject of the high capacity units blowing up; i wouldn't be surprised if it was heat related; ever look at the newer BMWs with the higher amp alts? they have a kind of "ram air" ducting hose that pulls in outside air and ducts it directly to the windings on the alt. pretty nifty!
on the hondas (b series anyway) the damn thing is under the intake manifold; the big race headers run under that motor and i'd imagine it gets pretty hot in there with minimal airflow. with a high current alt, minimal airflow, and heavy draw; well, that might spell disaster for the alt....
your design looks cool, sam!
todd
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Re: Ready fo yo next enduro, beeeeeotch!!!! (Raceworks)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Raceworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HID might actually be a good idea. We had the stock headlights, two poin-point beams, and two fog lights (the auxiliary lights were 55w each). We are going to a different light set-up because the lights weren't quite bright enough. In the dark we couldn't see far enough ahead going into the uphill esses. We ended up using some cones off to driver's right as a reference to turn in.
If you read farther up the idea is to have a reduntant system. The alternator failed on us physically (broken wire in the internals). The problem was that in the stock location it's an absolute bitch to get to. At the very least, I wanted to run one in the "new" location so it would be easier to change. Then I figured why not run both (with only one "on" at a time) and not have to stop at all if one goes out. If they both die, then you just change the front one out and lose maybe 5 minutes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, been following this thread. Do you have a vented hood to help lower under the hood temps? I just think lowering the amperage needed would've solved your problem but it doesn't hurt to have a backup system or a very big battery most HID setups are 35watt rigs though you can still get 55watt setups.
I'd say 4 35 watt lamps is enough, 2 driving beam/pencil beam lamps and 2 wide beam/fog lamps. They aren't cheap but reliable and very efficient.
HID might actually be a good idea. We had the stock headlights, two poin-point beams, and two fog lights (the auxiliary lights were 55w each). We are going to a different light set-up because the lights weren't quite bright enough. In the dark we couldn't see far enough ahead going into the uphill esses. We ended up using some cones off to driver's right as a reference to turn in.
If you read farther up the idea is to have a reduntant system. The alternator failed on us physically (broken wire in the internals). The problem was that in the stock location it's an absolute bitch to get to. At the very least, I wanted to run one in the "new" location so it would be easier to change. Then I figured why not run both (with only one "on" at a time) and not have to stop at all if one goes out. If they both die, then you just change the front one out and lose maybe 5 minutes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, been following this thread. Do you have a vented hood to help lower under the hood temps? I just think lowering the amperage needed would've solved your problem but it doesn't hurt to have a backup system or a very big battery
most HID setups are 35watt rigs though you can still get 55watt setups. I'd say 4 35 watt lamps is enough, 2 driving beam/pencil beam lamps and 2 wide beam/fog lamps. They aren't cheap but reliable and very efficient.
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