Not the usual Special Ed. Question
hey guys been lurking around here for a while but im lookin at buying this car tommorrow or Saturday, I've already looked through everything regarding the Special Editions before you ask.
I have two questions. First, since this isnt a v-tech shouldnt the tach have a 6g redline? This car has the redline at 8 and i've checked the vin, it says it is a an SE, no major repairs and the dash is stock. The cars a 95. Im trying to figure out why the tach is set so high. This guys the second owner, its only got 73K on the odometer and carfax says no bad oddometer readings or questionable bookeeping so every time its been in the shop the odo's been right. I was thinking that if the dash had been changed for any reason the odometer may have been screwed up in the process but it all seems to check out. I looked at the service records myself and they all go sequntially.So whats up with that?
Second, I've driven a handfull of front drive cars with open diffs and all of them pulled to the right under accelartion, especially on a hard launch. This is the only Integra I've driven, not alot available around here, but it seemed odd to me that this doesnt show any torque steer at all, hard launch in first, half second bark into second under full throttle... do integras just not show torque steer as a rule or does it sound like this has an LSD? And yes I know SE cars didnt come with them, but I've never driven an open diff that was so straight line.
Anyway any ideas would help out thanks.
Oh yeah, and this car has NO badging on whatsoever, sace the Acura badge on the fron and back.
I have two questions. First, since this isnt a v-tech shouldnt the tach have a 6g redline? This car has the redline at 8 and i've checked the vin, it says it is a an SE, no major repairs and the dash is stock. The cars a 95. Im trying to figure out why the tach is set so high. This guys the second owner, its only got 73K on the odometer and carfax says no bad oddometer readings or questionable bookeeping so every time its been in the shop the odo's been right. I was thinking that if the dash had been changed for any reason the odometer may have been screwed up in the process but it all seems to check out. I looked at the service records myself and they all go sequntially.So whats up with that?
Second, I've driven a handfull of front drive cars with open diffs and all of them pulled to the right under accelartion, especially on a hard launch. This is the only Integra I've driven, not alot available around here, but it seemed odd to me that this doesnt show any torque steer at all, hard launch in first, half second bark into second under full throttle... do integras just not show torque steer as a rule or does it sound like this has an LSD? And yes I know SE cars didnt come with them, but I've never driven an open diff that was so straight line.
Anyway any ideas would help out thanks.
Oh yeah, and this car has NO badging on whatsoever, sace the Acura badge on the fron and back.
1. previous owner could have switched out to a GSR cluster and moved the odometer to the right mileage for that car..that is not against the law...if the rpm gauge shows a max at 9.5k, then its a GSR gauge cluster...otherwise its an LS gauge cluster.
2. honda engines arent known for their torque..cuz there's really not alot of it.
2. honda engines arent known for their torque..cuz there's really not alot of it.
well the guys asking 5900 for it, its all leather interior, 5 spoke alloys, spoiler, cd and tape deck, and only 73k on the odometer. Now on the last post I saw to numbers 9.5 and 7 for the max readings. On this gauge the REDLINE is 8, it does read up to 9.5 though. As for the condition, its been garage kept its whole life, perfect shape. My concern is who if the cluster who changed it, and if it was the first owner then did the second not know bout it and rev it to eight while he had it, and what would that do, I know I've heard the rod bolts stretch like spagetti on those motors.
Ohyeah, thanks fo the tip about the torque steer. The reaon im lookin at it is I plan to turbo it eventually and I've heard the non v tech is the best to boost.
Thanks for the fast reply by the way.
Ohyeah, thanks fo the tip about the torque steer. The reaon im lookin at it is I plan to turbo it eventually and I've heard the non v tech is the best to boost.
Thanks for the fast reply by the way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nekekami »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now on the last post I saw to numbers 9.5 and 7 for the max readings. On this gauge the REDLINE is 8, it does read up to 9.5 though. As for the condition, its been garage kept its whole life, perfect shape. My concern is who if the cluster who changed it, and if it was the first owner then did the second not know bout it and rev it to eight while he had it, and what would that do, I know I've heard the rod bolts stretch lik like spagetti on those motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, if the gauge reads up to 9.5k rpm's, then you got a GSR gauge cluster in there.
ECU controls the redline and fuel cutoff...most likely the ECU is still stock which will cutoff fuel at about redline [which is ~7k rpm's]..in that case, your engine wont rev higher than what the ECU deems as redline even though the gauge can go higher.
yes, if the gauge reads up to 9.5k rpm's, then you got a GSR gauge cluster in there.
ECU controls the redline and fuel cutoff...most likely the ECU is still stock which will cutoff fuel at about redline [which is ~7k rpm's]..in that case, your engine wont rev higher than what the ECU deems as redline even though the gauge can go higher.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nolex7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, if the gauge reads up to 9.5k rpm's, then you got a GSR gauge cluster in there.
ECU controls the redline and fuel cutoff...most likely the ECU is still stock which will cutoff fuel at about redline [which is ~7k rpm's]..in that case, your engine wont rev higher than what the ECU deems as redline even though the gauge can go higher.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks that helps alot. The only thing is, when I drove it yesterday, I had it revved up to 8, soo thats a whole new can of worms I guess. I know its not a vtec, Its got a light gray valve cover, but if it can rev that high should I be worried about the bottom end with the mileage it has? And what about the price?
ECU controls the redline and fuel cutoff...most likely the ECU is still stock which will cutoff fuel at about redline [which is ~7k rpm's]..in that case, your engine wont rev higher than what the ECU deems as redline even though the gauge can go higher.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks that helps alot. The only thing is, when I drove it yesterday, I had it revved up to 8, soo thats a whole new can of worms I guess. I know its not a vtec, Its got a light gray valve cover, but if it can rev that high should I be worried about the bottom end with the mileage it has? And what about the price?
if it revs to 8k then u have to question which ecu its running and which engine..8k regularly on a LS engine is not good..be sure to do a compression test before you buy
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlatBlackTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure all of the non-vtecs are at the 7k redline.
How much is the car also?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually more like 6800 rpms.
How much is the car also?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually more like 6800 rpms.
I would be pretty hesitant about buying a car with so many question marks. If it is indeed an LS motor and it is reving to 8k, it is either very heavily modified, or being pushed way past it's limits. I don't really think that I would be thrilled about buying into either one of those scenarios.
yeah, thats kinda where Im at too, problem is I already put 200 down it to the guy to hold it for me till my money clears the bank, non refundable. i did so before I t occured to me that it shouldnt rev so high. So what are the scenarios? why would someone take the time to make gsr tach look stock, and swap the ecu? probly cuz he swapped head. but should'nt the valve cover be red then? Or im lookin at something thats had some weird sh** done to it and despite the service records I cant tell. So my question would be, how can I tell a v tech head from a non v head?
Oh yeah, and anyone who has an LS, do they BARK on the 1 2 upshift? I mean not a little chirp, but a bark.
Thanks for the input guys
Oh yeah, and anyone who has an LS, do they BARK on the 1 2 upshift? I mean not a little chirp, but a bark.
Thanks for the input guys
Redline is at 6800rpm, but the line looks like it is at 7. If it's truly revving higher, you should ask him about it. If he has a good explanation, or you are wrong, then don't worry. If he is lying about it, tell him to give you back the deposit.
As for torque steer, that car has equal length driveshafts, so it doesn't occur, like in some other front wheel drive cars with different length driveshafts. I doubt it has an LSD.
To tell the difference between a DOHC VTEC head and a DOHC non-vtec head, the vtec head will say Honda Motor Co. DOHC VTEC in gigantic letters, you will also be able to see the vtec solenoid, and there should be a sticker somewhere on the door jamb and on the gas lid that says 91 Octane only, or Premium Unleaded Only - that is if you're assuming this guy has a GSR and thinks it's an SE. If it's a motor swap, look for the solenoid and the valve cover markings.
Picture of vtec solenoid:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1032448
As for torque steer, that car has equal length driveshafts, so it doesn't occur, like in some other front wheel drive cars with different length driveshafts. I doubt it has an LSD.
To tell the difference between a DOHC VTEC head and a DOHC non-vtec head, the vtec head will say Honda Motor Co. DOHC VTEC in gigantic letters, you will also be able to see the vtec solenoid, and there should be a sticker somewhere on the door jamb and on the gas lid that says 91 Octane only, or Premium Unleaded Only - that is if you're assuming this guy has a GSR and thinks it's an SE. If it's a motor swap, look for the solenoid and the valve cover markings.
Picture of vtec solenoid:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1032448
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