Well, as some of you know my motor went boom again ...so here is my question to everyone, to the techs, to whomever...and I guess it's a topic that may or may not have been discussed....

So on the topic of the combustion chamber....well on the head to be exact...specially since many people have been doing LS/Vtec's and B20/Vtec's...many people decide not to modify the stock combustion chamber due to extra costs etc. For example like on a B20/Vtec the obvious larger bore size of the piston....my question basically is...

what are the advantages to "port-matching" your combustion chamber to the bore size vs leaving it stock <like the B20/Vtec>...then again why would you do that?...since many people weld their combustion chambers on their "heads" to build compression?...well I plan to leave my head the way it is...b/c like many other's I have a lack of funds and blowing the motor so many times is just putting me in more debt....BTW my timing belt teeth decided to fall off and I'm pretty positive my valves are bent...since the high compression dome pistons and the "big cam" combo....again feel free to add to the discussion, Eric


[Modified by NAB20C5, 11:52 PM 12/27/2001]

 

important to do with large bore such as 84+.

Does it really cost that much more to have it spot faced??

 

Haha...new I could count on steve....well to be honest I don't really trust the local machine shops in my area due to the lack of "honda" motor knowledge...For eg. I had a reputable machine shop due the bore and hone of my block and it was the "first honda/import motor" <---in a very southern acccent>....they worked on...could you elaborate more on what kind of advantage that would make as far as "real" power goes....well and compression too...ERic

 

Sounds like you and Type-R_126 are having the same problem...he's gone through 3 belts now

 

i would send it to portflow to have the spot facing done.

As far as power gains.... i suppose it would be worth at least 5-10%

 

Not to post ***** on my own thread but...
what do you mean?...b/c w/ my motor I think I need a larger tensionor...b/c even though my head is not milled nor god forbid...the block being decked....my belt never get's tight enough....it had a very bad "wobble"...Eric

----5-10%?....well don't know if i can afford the down time...sigh...what to do what to do...


[Modified by NAB20C5, 12:07 AM 12/28/2001]

 

You arent letting the spring do all the tensioning are you??

What belt/water pump are you using??

 

OEM belt and pump...and I had a friend of mine who's a tech at Acura do the belt, where I'm assuming he did not let the spring do all the work...<---Eric who hates doing timing belts...

 

'97 itr with GE sleeves, 84.5mm rollerwaver, TODA B's, and an ENDYN head...not sure what he's done about it, though after 3 times I would start loosing my drive, and I would be really broke.
Austin

 

acura tech?? ok, i'll put money down on improper belt tension.(aka too loose)
I have snapped 3 belts before i figured this out and lucky for me i escaped
with 0 damage each time. Now I have no belt problems. I overtighten it.
now I get to try out one of those "super strong" belts to see how long it will
last being very tight.

Did you read my response regarding belt tension and high rpm in taht other post?


when i asked about pump and belt, i had forgotten u had a b18c block
rather than a b20 like most people. I would hope you use oem parts lol.

 

Um...did I mention I feel like I'm making installments on my Hytech header w/ my credit card

[quote] I would hope you use all OEM parts [quote]

but of course Steve


[Modified by NAB20C5, 12:17 AM 12/28/2001]

 

how and why do you overtighten the belt? wouldent it cause the tensioner to whine and wear out faster if it's too tight? tensioner spring is not strong enough to tension the belt enough??

 

i over tighten it for 2 reasons:

1. because the tensioner spring doesnt do good enough job on its own
2. because revving to high rpms requires that the cam timing be dead on or
else valves get bent.