When ever I use the brakes and get past a certain point in pedal pressure (ie a little bit before anti lock kicks in) my car shakes really bad and it almost feels like the rotors are warped. Is it just this or could it be something else? Its a 1992 si if that helps at all.

 

sounds like warped rotors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLUDEnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like warped rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

could be the rotors or uneven pads. Mine had the same issue after I locked up the brakes - after new pads and turning the rotors it is gone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLUDEnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like warped rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

warped rotors for sure

 

http://www.racepad.com/tech/bm...s.htm

 

wooooooooooooooooorpeeeddd ratarZ!!!

i had the same problem. when you stop slowly, you should be able to feel each groove in your rotors. i suggest autozone blanks and if they dont make them for your car, i'd go with brembo blanks. they're like 20 dollar each from autozone and about 30-35 each after shipping. you should be able to do a rotor job urself..if you have the 4th gen lude's..well my lude took 4 bolts..they were on frickin tight tho!

to cross drilled rotors

 

Whats the difference if I take the old rotors in to be turned down compared to new rotors. Is there going to be a difference in the "pedal travel" required for the brakes to engage due to the "thinner" rotors? And slotted and cross drilled rotors are bad? I went to check on some pads today and my parts store recomended raybestos STS ceramic pads. For $40 I figure I can't go wrong. Should I do both front and rear to equalize the "feel?"

 

i say to reybestos even if they are ceramic.