Hi, I just bought a turbonetics t/3 turbo and a new manifold for my b16a in my 90 CRX Si. I really know next to nothing about setting up a turbo and would like some help. What parts do I need first of besides the turbo and manifold? What are the best deals on these parts and where can I get them? I pretty much would appreciate any help anyone has to offer, thanks again
Jon

 

Turbo/wastegate
manifold
downpipe
charge pipes
intercooler-optional
blow off valve-optional
oil feed/return lines
Some kind of fuel managent
Silicone or rubber hoses/Clamps


Do some research before you even think about turboing a car..

 

put your project on hold until you read a book about boost. if you dont know the answers, how can you sort through good or bad advice? 'maximum boost' by corky bell is under 30 bucks and "turbocharged" (or is it turbochargers) by A. graham bell should have all the answers you need.

 

injectors.............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mrspeaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo/wastegate
manifold
downpipe
charge pipes
intercooler-optional
blow off valve-optional
oil feed/return lines
Some kind of fuel managent
Silicone or rubber hoses/Clamps


Do some research before you even think about turboing a car..</TD></TR></TABLE>

intercooler / bov OPTIONAL!? no IC = boom, no bov = bye bye $600 turbo

you also forgot injectors and oil pan. those are the mandatory things... i had to buy many other things to go along with it: radiator, slim fan, good rad hoses, clutch, good tires, exhuast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

intercooler / bov OPTIONAL!? no IC = boom, no bov = bye bye $600 turbo

you also forgot injectors and oil pan. those are the mandatory things... i had to buy many other things to go along with it: radiator, slim fan, good rad hoses, clutch, good tires, exhuast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are optional..
The intercooler helps lower tempeature and the bov reduces the chance of compressor surge but they are optional items in a turbo system..
I did a single turbo set-up(Straight T04) on a friends mustang with no blow-off valve and no intercooler and there were no problems for 1000miles.. We later added the intercooler/bov when he got more money...

And you say I didnt say fuel injectors..But I guess you didnt read the whole post..
I said fuel managment and injectors would be included in that category..Although bigger injectors may or may not be required for his set-up..He didnt say what his HP goals were or anything.,,

 

IMO opinion, you should just hold off until you can get a BOV and FMIC.
If you're going to build a turbo setup build it right. Don't go cheap, cause then later on you'll regret it. Remember now that there are lots of people who may not use these items and may have got by with it. There are also lots of people who have not used these items and are less lucky.
You can at least use a SMIC and a 1G DSM BOV or something...come on..those are like $100 total for both. Do a search, I'm sure some one has one for cheap.
Injectors you don't need unless you are planning to boost over 7lbs. You can get away with using a FMU and an AFC. That is as cheap as you should go, any cheaper and you're looking for trouble.
A dead motor isn't a good one.

-Lor

 

your also leaving out some other stuff, when i went to install my turbo i had no clearance from the crossmember, i didnt want to risk my life by cutting it in half and taking chances so i bought a full race cross member. I also had to use a half size radiator like in the 96-00 civics.

heres pretty much a run down of what you will need and where you can get them.

turbo manifold, ( drag, revhard, or inline pro) inline pro being the best option, then revhard and then drage, you can find revhard and drag manifolds on the honda tech classified for about 250.

wastegate- Tial or turbo smart, the other choices arent reliable but these will do the trick expect to pay at least 180

bov- though its optional , you should never not include one just because you cant afford it, if you cant afford a bov you cant afford turbo, if you cant afford a jdm bling bling hks then get a 1st gen eclipse bov these will hold up to 15psi without any problems and can be had for 40 bucks,

oil return kit and oil feed, i went through 3 set of aftermarket kits and all of them sucked, i ended up using peices from each kit to get r done, if i could do it over again, http://www.tunertoys.com sells a complete kit for 80 bucks i think that will do the trick.

intercooler, pretty much any intercooler will work you can find some on ebay between 200-300 bucks if you going to spend that much try to get a good one like the johnnyracecar or you might be able to get a custom ic. dont get anything too big, some people think bigger is better and thats not the case.

battery relocation, your gonig to need to put your battery in the trunk, i spent about 100 bucks on a battery box, cable, and a uber fancy power distribution block from a stereo shop

the last thing is piping, since i doubt you can weld this will be one of the hardest parts of your install, i recommend buying a bunch of mandrel bent piping in the sizes you need, cut them to fit and use a bunch of silicon connectors, after you get them all done then drive your car to a muffler shop and have them weld all the piping.

last but not least you need some fuel management. since you dont have anything id recommend getting real management like a zdyne mainly becuase you will spend about 250 on a fmu and inline fuel pump and it not be that reliable, or you can find a programmable zdyne for about 500 bucks, you will still need injectors and a intank pump but you will have the ability to maximize the power from your setup.

you could always do dsm injectors and a vafc hack , but even this isnt that good of an option since the vafc advances your timing at a rediculous amount.

 

OWNDED!

 

a bov doesnt reduce the chance of surge, it WILL surge without a bov

 

dude your best bet would be to go here http://www.homemadeturbo.com and find all your answers....pm me if you have any questions, i can help ya out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your also leaving out some other stuff, when i went to install my turbo i had no clearance from the crossmember, i didnt want to risk my life by cutting it in half and taking chances so i bought a full race cross member. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No need to spend an extra 200-500 when u can just notch out a little section, don't cut it in half.....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
battery relocation, your gonig to need to put your battery in the trunk, i spent about 100 bucks on a battery box, cable, and a uber fancy power distribution block from a stereo shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your not going to HAVE to do that. My battery is still under the hood and i am darn proud of it. And if u want to be track legal u better get a legal battery box from sumit or something. I had mine in the back befor, and moved it back up front becuase of the hassel. More power to you if u can manage with teh battery under the hood

Your also probably going to have to cut out some of your webing on your block, depending on where your manifold sits your turbo.

Just basically expect the unexpected, O yea it'll cost another about 300 to get it tuned, i was quoted for 500. So be prepared to either bend some rods like me or pay to get it tuned.

 

excuse me lets see your turbo setup, now how would my stock battery fit? You cant say that he wont need one lol, he might not need one but if it were me i would plan on having to do it, if you dont then fine. I dont see what the hassle of having it in the trunk is? its no hassle at all, the only hassle was the install, wich then wasnt even a big deal! Dont go around spreading misinformation because you couldnt possibly know if he will have to do it or not.

??????????

 

if my motor wasn't apart right now i'd snap a pic for you and see how it fits like a glove, i am just saying that there is no need to spend extra money, just cut the IC pipes right and u can save yourself some cash. O yea and if u'v ever been to a "drag strip" they'll give you **** if your battery box is not vented (doesn't matter if its a sealed battery), or not tied down to their liking, or the cables arn't run to their liking. I'v been there and i've been told i couldn't run because of it. I am jsut saying props for those turbo'd ef's with the batt's under the hood.

 

ive been to the track about 150 times and theyve never said anything about it, maybe your track sucks but mine doesnt. either way unless for some miracle he will have to put the battery in the trunk, if your track sucks then get a sealed battery then they cant say ****


you can run your intercooler piping with 50 bends if you like but thats going to cut in your power and the efficiency of your setup, i run a backdoor endtank so that my piping is direct as possible.

Its worth it to me to put the battery in the trunk and not have to deal with more **** crammed in to the engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if your track sucks then get a sealed battery then they cant say ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
Been there, done that. Optima batteries are sealed right?????, welp i got kicked out. now whos spreading the mis information??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ICeDoUt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Been there, done that. Optima batteries are sealed right?????, welp i got kicked out. now whos spreading the mis information?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

again every track is diffrent, its not misinformation if his track doesnt care, if its a sealed battery there is no safety concern so it doesnt matter if its vented or not! Just because you had problems at your track doesnt mean every track is like that!

 

i know, just letting others know about how much of dicks techs can be at tracks. I think its because i was about 1 of the 10 other imports there.