Basically, is a b20 or ls vtec setup worth the trouble over just getting a good ol' b18c5 swap??? why???


Modified by QuarterMileMaster at 12:36 PM 11/10/2004

 

from what i kow about b20 vtec is that if u do ur set up right then ull have an absolute beast under tha hood. also u can get more compression...iwas down at the Kent street races in Wa state and one of my brothers friends had b20 vtec and was rapin everyone...type r's, ls vtec, u name it...and he didnt have to go in third gear...type r is nice but i think its over rated...ls vtec wit header intake and exhaust will take tha type r wit a good driver and also it has the longer stroke...as for sleevin tha b20, its a good idea cause tha cylinder was r thin...only if ur goin turbo or just n/a with a butt load of nos...as for my opinion...go with b20 or ls vtec

 

Follow this link. It shows how to do it. Keep in mind a 2.XL N/A B series is the most advanced buildup you can do.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

If your resleeving anything, just go LS/vtec. The only difference between a b20 & an LS is the stock cylider sleeves.

 

Well, what I want to know is what's it gonna take for me to drive a b20 vtec like it was a Type R.

 

r u going fro off tha line or freeway speed? cause if u want off tha line get a b16 tranny cause of tha short gears and if u got a lightened fly wheel u will rip through tha gears on tha freeway they will do aight but not as good as a gsr tranny...its all up to what u want ur car to do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, what I want to know is what's it gonna take for me to drive a b20 vtec like it was a Type R.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol..properly built a b20 vtec will make WAY more hp than a stock type R... and prolly cost close too the same if not cheaper...

 

b20vtec is the way to go....me and my friend have only lost 2 out of like 30 races with that ek...that thing is soooo ******* fast...trust me its worth it...type r's have no torque!

 

btw you will spend like double the money on the type r anyways....

 

unless you're really experienced and know EXACTLY what you are doing- it is not worth it. Forced Induction would be a better option.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TIroneous &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unless you're really experienced and know EXACTLY what you are doing- it is not worth it. Forced Induction would be a better option.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what the hell are you babbling about??and why are u bringing forced induction into a thread in a all motor forum....

 

a stock itr motor really is not fast at all.
and a built b20 or even a bilt 1.8 lsvtec with be a hell of a lot faster than a itr swap at the fraction of the price too.

 

if it's built RIGHT then yes more hp more tq

 

Lots of great information and consistant opinions. Thanks guys, B20vtec sounds like the way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuarterMileMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lots of great information and consistant opinions. Thanks guys, B20vtec sounds like the way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

enjoy it brotha!

 

Your post doesn't contain any dyno info here's a link to a B20VTEC build with dyno results.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=965320

 

what i think is...if you're worried about the stock b20 sleeves, and you're considering resleeving anyways, just go with a gsr block and resleeve it to 84mm...that'll almost be a 2.0 liter...and i think it'll be alot more reliable too...just my opinion though.

 

when you start sleeving and using forged internals you REALLY start making a b20vtec expensive.

everyone that says a "BUILT" b20vtec is cheaper than a b18c5 is not being hardly specific as to what "BUILT" contains.

a stock b20z bottom can be mated with a b16 head, ctr cams and some home porting job to attain 200whp.

to the post above this one: a STOCK b20 bottom end is reliable. i mean, how much WHP are we talking 260? 300? =P if he wants roughly 200 210 the stock sleeves are FINE @ 8000rpm.
save your money. **** people have used stock b20z and a block girdle to attain a hell of a lot more than 200whp using FI.

 

How about the rods and rod bolts?

 

I have a B20 and i dog the living sh-t out of it for the past 7500 miles. All you really have to do is basically use arp rod bolts on the stock rods and get the bottom end fully balanced. There is no reason to rev the **** out of it cause power isnt needed that high when you have gobs of torque .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by getgot22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no reason to rev the **** out of it cause power isnt needed that high when you have gobs of torque .</TD></TR></TABLE>

torque is mans best friend

 

Let me add that throwing together an ls/vtec is not the same as having a built ls/vtec,as I started to unciver different info about building one I had wondered why I never saw some of the stuff on any boards and my conclusion is that it is just too much stuff to talk or write about. a b20 or ls block with a vtec head on it is way cheap and tunned could make as much or more power than an itr motor but it isnt built and probably wont last,now a built one like said above sleeving and forged parts,rodbolts reconditioned rods all this jumps the price up there... im nearly finished building mine and its built to the best of my abillity/pocket will allow and im still under the cap of a c5 swap. my advise thos is not to do one till you read every spec of info on the net and then have an in depth conversastion with a machinist.

 

hey guys. i been reading about b20/vtec and i wonder is it worth it? I have a 94 ls integra. and i was wondering should i go with a GSR or go with a B20/vtec. b/c i heard the the b20 has an oild problem or something. also the reliablity and all. Also the i dont care if it revs high or anything. i Just want a strong daily driven engine, that doesnt cost to much. so yeah if u guys and give me ur input thanks. i did serch to ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hype Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys. i been reading about b20/vtec and i wonder is it worth it? I have a 94 ls integra. and i was wondering should i go with a GSR or go with a B20/vtec. b/c i heard the the b20 has an oild problem or something. also the reliablity and all. Also the i dont care if it revs high or anything. i Just want a strong daily driven engine, that doesnt cost to much. so yeah if u guys and give me ur input thanks. i did serch to ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm...i wonder what this whole thread is about? did you not just get done reading these posts? apparently you didnt, or else you wouldnt have asked this question.

it all depends on what you want and how much money you want to spend...thats it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hype Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys. i been reading about b20/vtec and i wonder is it worth it? I have a 94 ls integra. and i was wondering should i go with a GSR or go with a B20/vtec. b/c i heard the the b20 has an oild problem or something. also the reliablity and all. Also the i dont care if it revs high or anything. i Just want a strong daily driven engine, that doesnt cost to much. so yeah if u guys and give me ur input thanks. i did serch to ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn dude, you come into a thread called "b20vtec/lsvtec really worth the trouble?" with 20 posts about what's needed/why it IS worth it, and ask "is it worth it?"