just wondering if anybody on here is running a good sized shot and what there setup is i have a b16 with a direct port 100shot wet kit (nos brand)) with i/h/e i havent sprayed it yet just wondering what i should run for management with that ..will my stock fuel pump and stock injectors hold up ?? also i do have a adjustable fpr but no fuel pressure gauge..will i be ok with just retarding my ignition timing like 3-5 degrees when spray'n (msd 6a) or can i get a custom chip from http://www.racechips.com ..im pretty sure thats like a set program that they cant adjust.. so i think i'll end up use'n a vafc-I and the msd 6a .... im really wondering if i need the msd (to retardtiming)becouse there is a kid here in phoenix with a b20vtec that is spray'n a 100 shot wet/dry system and all he has is a vafc-I ... although my compression is higher then his (cause he has the b20z and i have a jdm b16 with stock 10.2:1 compression..) i heard nitrous loves high compression but needs better tuning .. please let me know guys .. thanks ohhh things i know im ganna use
only spray on high octane (91+)
get adjustable cam gears
dont spray in low rpms or 5th
2 colder plugs (maybe colder i dunno)
possible fuel pressure gauge if i can use one with stock fuel rail ??
help me out and lemme know what you guys think or what your setup is

 

I sprayed a 100shot dry on my D16Y8. Stock injectors not big enough for a dry kit.

 

Nor is a stock fuel pump.

 

right on well what should i use for tuning and will a set of dsm 440's be enough for the 100 shot ??? what size fuel pump shoul i use .. like a walbro 255?? i have an extra pump from a 92-95 civic si will that work in my dx ef ?? thanks in advance.. Rick

 

retard your timing and rpm sensor.. 200shot 01 ss camaro

 

You are running a wet shot so your stock injectors should be fine. I would just get a Walboro 255, maybe even the 190, its really just to ensure the fuel will always be there, and the stocker doesn't crap out. I would get it on a dyno and watch your AFR's the first time you spray, and adjust your jets accordingly. At 100 ponies you really dont have any room for error.

 

so should my fpr and a vafc be good for "tuning"

 

i saw an unbuilt d series with a 125 wet on it.. he couldn't hook with his crappy tires...

not sure how long it lasted... but i havent seen the car around so maby not long

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pheonixb16aguy@hondaswap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right on well what should i use for tuning and will a set of dsm 440's be enough for the 100 shot ??? what size fuel pump shoul i use .. like a walbro 255?? i have an extra pump from a 92-95 civic si will that work in my dx ef ?? thanks in advance.. Rick </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an MSD inline fuel pump for sale that would be more than sufficient for your intended use. It has been used no more than 1 hour. I used it as a standalone pump for a direct port nitrous system in a drag car for about 5 passes. Car is now turbo so I have no use for it anymore. Heres the link to the for sale post. Registering is free and only takes about a minute. http://s8.invisionfree.com/MS1....php?. The pump is under the for sale forum. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pheonixb16aguy@hondaswap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so should my fpr and a vafc be good for "tuning"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the only problem is that the VAFC one only has one map, the map tuned on nitrous may not run the car well off the bottle. The VAFC two would be great, have one tuned off the bottle, pick up a few extra ponies all the time, and switch to the second map for the juice.

 

sweet so the vafc-II is definately worth the extra cash

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, the only problem is that the VAFC one only has one map, the map tuned on nitrous may not run the car well off the bottle. The VAFC two would be great, have one tuned off the bottle, pick up a few extra ponies all the time, and switch to the second map for the juice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is that going to do for him? If he's spraying wet nitrous the fuel for the nitrous is totally controlled through the fuel solenoid and jet, you don't need to adjust the fueling for the motor at all. All a VAFC does is adjust the fueling and the VTEC X-over point, so what the hell is having 2 maps going to do for him? What he really needs is something to let him take out or put in timing, like Uberdata, Crome, Hondata, etc, so that he can pull some timing on the juice but run with full timing naturally aspirated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboEGsedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What is that going to do for him? If he's spraying wet nitrous the fuel for the nitrous is totally controlled through the fuel solenoid and jet, you don't need to adjust the fueling for the motor at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tuning a nitrous kit off the jets is just like tuning a turbo off the FMU, it works, but not well. When you look at the AFR curve of a boosted or juiced motor you will see the AF dip and rise at different RPM levels. For the lean portions, you will have to add fuel via the jets until the leanest point is still fairly rich, thus leaving the richest point very rich, which will be killing power. If he runs an AFC he will be able to add and subtract fuel at different RPM points so that his curve is smooth, he is running safe, and making power. As I stated before, the two maps will be used for N/A and juice.

Something to retard the timing on the bottle would be beneficial, but is not necessary. In either case, if he is worried about being slow off the nitrous, then nitrous is not for him.

And drop the attitude.

 

Just a note.

Although I have no personal experience with nitrous I do believe that you shouldn't really tune it by what the O2 reading is. I think you have to read the plugs to correctly tune nitrous.

Pretty sure N20 throws off the 02 reading

 

Im not sure if it throws off the o2 reading or not, but you should check the plugs in any form of tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Tuning a nitrous kit off the jets is just like tuning a turbo off the FMU, it works, but not well. When you look at the AFR curve of a boosted or juiced motor you will see the AF dip and rise at different RPM levels. For the lean portions, you will have to add fuel via the jets until the leanest point is still fairly rich, thus leaving the richest point very rich, which will be killing power. If he runs an AFC he will be able to add and subtract fuel at different RPM points so that his curve is smooth, he is running safe, and making power. As I stated before, the two maps will be used for N/A and juice.

Something to retard the timing on the bottle would be beneficial, but is not necessary. In either case, if he is worried about being slow off the nitrous, then nitrous is not for him.

And drop the attitude.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've run nitrous on a bunch of cars, I don't know what you're talking about but the AFR has always been fine for me just running straight off the jets, be it a single nozzle kit or a direct port kit. VAFC-2 at 330 bucks is a waste of money when he can totally setup uberdata for that price, AND gain timing control, which he certainly needs if he wants to be spraying 100+ HP.

 

I never even cought the "+", so I agree. With that much nitrous, you probably should look into Uberdata. You're right.

 

i think im just ganna start out with a 75 and go from there

 

We had a 89 CRX SI with a stock b16 with I/H/E and Tec 2 EMS on a 100 shot dry with no problems. The car ran 12.4 @ 109

 

no offense, but I don't think you even have a dp kit. What the hell does injectors and afc have to do with a dp kit? I would think you would know that if you did in fact, have the kit.

The only way to properly tune a dp kit is to do it on a dyno with a wb and reading the plugs after each run. With that information, you adj. the fuel and nos jets accordingly.

More than likely, you can effectively control timing by adj the dist. If your using nos for race purposes, the time you're off the nos is very short so the loss of a few degrees of timing won't effect much.

When tuning a dp kit, all you need to do is get your a/f in the "ball park" because your a/f will be constantly changing as you go down the track. When you spray, your bottle pressure drops because of a decrease in temps and loss of nos. That means that less nos is going into your engine with the same amount of fuel. That is the reason why you always want to tune with a full bottle and at a consistent temp. Even if it means bringing more than one bottle with you.

 

I sprayed 100shot dry on top of 10psi with my last setup. Hondata nitrous controls

 

i did 100 shot dp on my R when it was stock motor with a few boltons. fuel pump is a must

 

step away from the nitrous. go read a book or somethign, you sound like you know nothign about the sauce. you are goign to pop your motor and blame someone who doesn't deserve. **** you shoudl at least know the damnbn difference between wet, dry and dp. again don't spray any juice at all until you actually know the basics about what it is, how it works etc.