hello! i need help installing my LS seat on my 88 civic hatchback..

any ideas? if anyone of you know what a spacer looks like, that would help me a lot.

thanks

jhoel

 

flatten brackets and bolt to the floor using plates on the bottom with nuts and bolts attaching.

depending on the exact setup you may need two half inch spacers on the outboard side to level the seat.

thats how I did my Del Sols in my EF.

 

do u have pictures..

cause im not an expert on this kind of stuff im a nOOb when it comes to fabrication and stuff like that..so if anyone has detailed pictures, that would be great, since it will give me an idea on how to do it right the first,second time

thanks

jhoel

edit: i managed to bolt the 3 bolts.. both "left" front/rear bolts are fine, and the front right bolt is bolted on too, but the rear "right" bolt is not connected and i have no idea where to bolt it. do u recommend drilling a hole in my floorboard?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leohj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. do u recommend drilling a hole in my floorboard? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes.

just fab a little backing plate up for the bottom side.

 

ok i'll wil try that.. wait i have another question

my "driver seat" LS seats has too big mounting holes it looks like the bolt has been pulled out or something the other railing won't bolt down it loosens everytime it's bolted, since the hole is too big.. what do u recommend me doing?? have big holes welded and covered? or do u have another alternative way to do it

thanks

 

something like this , just to distribute the load across the thin metal.



make sure to radius the edges and debur the piece before install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leohj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> since the hole is too big.. what do u recommend me doing?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

washers ?

 

ok that pic gave an idea.. thanks for showing me the pic..

what bolts (size) did you use? and how long are they?

 

I used AN stuff , but 3/8" would be fine I'm sure.

I needed two different lenths because of my spacers and compound curves on the floorpan.

 

just a question, what does "AN" mean?

ok, i will be buying 3/8's i just need to make my seat hold to the ground without moving.

which bolt do you recommend buying, "coarse,fine"

sorry about all the questions, im new to the world of fabrication.

 

An is aircraft grade stuff.

popular in racing as well for its high UTS without shearing like grade 8 stuph.

I would use fine thread , takes a little longer to crank down but if it ever loosens up you have more time till disaster strikes , also use Loctite blue or nylon lock nuts.

have fun.

 

i don't know about vehicles but the AAR (railroad) mandates that any safety equiptment or mods need to be either welded (Not Applicable for this situation) or bolted using a metal locknut (nylon locknuts are strictly prohibited)

and it makes sense too because the nylon locknuts are more proned to failure.

 

wat does a metal lock nut look like??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cua0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and it makes sense too because the nylon locknuts are more proned to failure.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

and metal locknuts are a one time use item , doesnt seem to make sense in the Auto world.

 

ohh airgrade stuff.. ic..

ok, ill try your suggestion, and i will post results soon..

thanks

jhoel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leohj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, ill try your suggestion, and i will post results soon..

thanks

jhoel</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and metal locknuts are a one time use item , doesnt seem to make sense in the Auto world.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not on something you are putting on and removing constantly, but they aren't too terribly expensive and if you are planning to do it as a one time deal, or if you change seats maybe once every three years or so it would still be beneficial to go with the added security of the metal locknut.

but like i said, this is just my experience with the railroad safety crap. could be different mandates for automotive, if there even are any.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Optiks. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wat does a metal lock nut look like??</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like a flanged nut, nothing spectacular really.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cua0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but like i said, this is just my experience with the railroad safety crap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well , my knowledge is automotive based and I've yet to see any GOOD nylon lock nut fail , so I think Jetnuts are a little overkill in this.

and if you're that worried about failure just goop a little loctite red on there also.