my brand battery keep dying out and it blows out the Alternator sp sensor fuse. I have to jump start the car every 5 minutes. Also my speedometer dont work. The check light that i get is code 20, electrical load detector. I already had the alternator check out and it is good. What could be the problem?

 

how did you get the alt checked? your case sounds like the alt is no good that's why

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smart monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did you get the alt checked? your case sounds like the alt is no good that's why</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like the alt.

-Aaron

 

The alternator is what "charges" the battery while the motor runs. Its the alt.

 

i took out the alternator and brung it to a alternator rebuilder shop. Just in case i also it to discount auto to have to it check out too. If it matter i had the alternator rebuild a year and half ago.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z1p &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... The check light that i get is code 20, electrical load detector. I already had the alternator check out and it is good. What could be the problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe the electrical load detector? It's built into the under-hood fuse box.

 

sounds like the battery fuse.
it's shorting out everything.

look in the fusebox. under the hood.
find the battery fuse.
should be a 20Amp fuse(if i recall?)
you should see the band broken or burnt.
replace it.

 

an easy way to check the alternator is..

in your case.. jump start your car..haha
have it running.. borrow a VOLTMETER or MULTIMETER from one of your friends.
or anything that detects direct current.

place positive cable to positive terminal.
negative cable to negative terminal..

with the car running.
your battery should read anywhere above 13.5 volts.
that's your alternator charge that it's reading..

if it's below that.. your alternator is bad.
very easy.

remember.. the car constantly runs off of the alternator.
Battery is only used for startup and if your alternator is bad, the car runs off of the battery which is nowhere near enough voltage to keep the car running ..for too long..

good luck.

 

i did the voltmeter test and it was below 13, thats why i took the alternator out and get it tested and check out. Two place said it was good and my problem is somewhere else.

 

What did you find when you checked out your ELD circuit?

After doing that, check the other connections at the alternator. You don't say what year car??? Mostly there's 1 or 2 circuits going to the ECU. The ECU has to trigger the alternator.

Since the alternator is fine, you need to make sure the circuit(s) are in place for the ECU to 'turn on' the alternator. Depending on what year, you might have a black/yellow wire that powers the voltage regulator - is that one OK?

Can you get your hands on a wiring drawing for your year?

 

We need more information.
There are 2 possible codes you can get from the ELD circuit.
1. Low voltage problem DTC#P1297
2. High Voltage problem DTC#P1298

Jumping the pin connector with a paperclip or equivelent will not give the actual DTC #.

Ok,
First off, let's try resetting the ECU. The "pull the fuse out" way. Not the "disconnect the battery cable" way. Start the car and switch on the headlights. This way it could possibly be a loose connection at the ECU or the actual ELD in the fusebox.

If we're still getting a code after ressetting the ECU...

We're going to need the voltmeter.

Now check for battery voltage..
If we're not getting voltage..there's probably an open in the wire between the 15 amp ALT fuse and the Electrical Load Detector.

The ALT fuse is #24 in the fusebox underneath the dash.
The ELD is in the fusebox underneath the hood.

Try replacing the whole wire and the ELD. Get an electrical schematic to help you.

Good luck with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jumping the pin connector with a paperclip or equivelent will not give the actual DTC #...</TD></TR></TABLE>If it's OBD-1 that's all there is.

Z1p, what year & model?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you get your hands on a wiring drawing for your year?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get an electrical schematic to help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

..<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's OBD-1 that's all there is.

Z1p, what year & model?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, go to Honda and have them run their PGM tester and that will give him multiple codes if there is more than one and a specific DTC # for a specific code.

What if a guy gets multiple misfire codes? All jumping the pin connector will do is give them a "random misfire" code.. it will not identify the problem cylinder for more than 1 misfire. Plus if another code like MAP or IACV is causing the misfire, it will not show up a MAP failure, it will show up as a misfire.

thanks buddy.