I took in my b16 ef to get e-tested and it failed, miserably.

the test was a 2 speed idle(too low to get on the dyno) and iut was tested under hot rod specs since it doesn't reatin the stock block. If you can help that would be appreciated...

test results:

IDLE
hc ppm--limit-300 reading-463 fail!
CO % --limit-1.5 reading-2.66 fail!

2500 rpm
hc ppm--limit-300 reading-793 fail!
CO % --limit1.5 reading-6.74 fail!

Can yu help me out?
Thanks
Matt

 

same thing happen to me i have a b16a2 motor in my eg hatch back, so i took it to a local import shop and had the mechanic look at it he said get a p30 ecu (theres was a p28 ecu in it) and a new cat converter so i got those and it passed

 

im not sure the ecu comment will help me but i MIGHT need a cat, im not sure how to test them?

 

can anyone else give a hand?

 

if its a sotck B16 then you probably need to change the 02 sensor and the cat. that should get it to pass.

 

I do believe the USDM ECU equivalent will have more conservative fuel and timing maps, but this would only apply if you're running OBD-1.

 

Be sure to get your engine/exhaust really hot before taking it. I used to drive about an hour around town on the highway, then take it to the shop and let it run while waiting. Cats work best when they are really hot.

 

isnt canada's emmisions really strict? they dont even bother in NY, so my advice is move here

 

it wasn't really hot when it was tested but next time i will do that!

i can't move yet... im only 16 lol

 

16 years old with his hands on a b16 ef.............. somones going to get pulled over for having to much fun!

 

Make sure there wired like this... trust me

 

lol, what emissions you got there.

In Finland its like this, with B16A1

HC ppm: limit 100
CO %: 1,5 (if i remember right)

But in here, all cars after 92 have to be low- emission (Equipped with catalytic convertor).

But Honda made low emission cars from 89->

And by the way, cat doesent warm up at idle, you have to warm it very long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMef_typeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took in my b16 ef to get e-tested and it failed, miserably.

the test was a 2 speed idle(too low to get on the dyno) and iut was tested under hot rod specs since it doesn't reatin the stock block. If you can help that would be appreciated...

test results:

IDLE
hc ppm--limit-300 reading-463 fail!
CO % --limit-1.5 reading-2.66 fail!

2500 rpm
hc ppm--limit-300 reading-793 fail!
CO % --limit1.5 reading-6.74 fail!

Can yu help me out?
Thanks
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

new cat will get you passed almost for sure.

your cat is dead if you failed.

your o2 sensor not functioning properly is almost 99.9% definitely what killed your cat.

a new o2 sensor will make sure you don't kill the new cat.

proper fix: new cat, new o2 sensor, and verify proper ignition timing. You should also replace the cap, rotor, plugs... and ohms the plug wires... and ohms the primary coil while you're at it.

for the love of christ do not go to honda for emissions parts.

honda price for cat: $800
autozone price: &lt;$200

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twilight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And by the way, cat doesent warm up at idle, you have to warm it very long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm.. that's not the way I understand it.

here's a link

http://www.federallabs.org/ser...-Item

third paragraph...

 

i never thought canada having a e-test...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integra_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i never thought canada having a e-test...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was wondering that myself..

i mean what's the ******* point..

they don't have a smog problem, and it looks like they're not even testing for NOx anyways.. which means they're not even concerned about developing a smog problem..

 

What about running an alcohol/gas mixture for the E-test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about running an alcohol/gas mixture for the E-test.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not too experiences with this.

I'm thinking it could help him pass at idle, because he's only over by 150ppm.

but he's over double the limit at 2500. From what I've heard the alcohol thing can't help more than a couple hundred at most.

can the alcohol thing really help that much?

anyone have any good links about this? not necessarily from h-t, any link will do..

 

Alcohol is a clean burning fuel...so the emissions on a vehicle running a high % alcohol alcohol/fuel mixture should do surprisingly well on a test.

The only thing is, I'm not sure you can get the stock ECU to deliver enough fuel when running a high % mixture, since you have to burn a LOT more alcohol than fuel. If you had Hondata or some other tuneable ECU, you could easily tune a map specifically for running alcohol. With a tuneable ECU and properly sized injectors/fuel delivery system, you could even run 100% alcohol.

I don't have any sites to support this, but I know big auto manufacturers like GM and Ford have cars that are designated as "Flex-Fuel" and they can run 100% gasoline, 100% alcohol, or anything in between.

 

I can help you pass.

IM me.

 

With a tuneable ECU also, couldn't he just change out his fuel maps on 100% gas to allow for a leaner burning mixture, retard timing, etc etc therefor negating the need for an alcohol mixture?

 

I guess so...I was just offering that as an example that it COULD be done...and that I'm unsure what a "safe" mixture would be when running stock fuel maps.

 

yeah I heard that alcohol stoichometric ratio is a lot richer than a regular fuel ratio. Like a race alcohol car runs at something like 8:1, but that would be rich for a clean burn I suppose since they're trying to get power out of it, and not concerned about emissions.

so his ecu would have to find a happy medium between the gas and the alcohol i guess.

also alcohol likes to burn at a higher compression ratio.

so i dunno.

it's a good idea but it might require more work than just fixing it the right way.

I'm sure there's instances where just throwing some alcohol in the gas tank could help you pass.. but what situations would they be.

we need an expert..