Valve cover removal question
I really don't want to have to buy a Helm's manual for this... Could someone include the valve cover bolt torque specs? And which ones if possible?
Any other tips would be great. I'm removing in order to cut it for cam gears. I've purchased "HondaBond" and another valve cover gasket with spark plug seals. anything else???
thanks!
-lazy
Any other tips would be great. I'm removing in order to cut it for cam gears. I've purchased "HondaBond" and another valve cover gasket with spark plug seals. anything else???
thanks!
-lazy
torque spec...ugh...hand tight, then a half turn. You don't gotta break out the torque wrench for this one
Put a little Hondabond (aka Permatex grey) on the corners by the cam cap edges, and you're set.
Put a little Hondabond (aka Permatex grey) on the corners by the cam cap edges, and you're set.
hehe... thanks. Feeling a little **** retensive today.
Speaking of pains in the anus. Is it tough to install cam gears? In other words, can I trust a local tuning shop?
I'm thinking about doing this myself.
Speaking of pains in the anus. Is it tough to install cam gears? In other words, can I trust a local tuning shop?
I'm thinking about doing this myself.
I remember my valve cover was hard to remove. I had to pry it loose with the end of the hammer. The torque specs for the bolts are low. So don't overdue it because you'll snap the bolt. 12 ft-lbs should be good enough. If you do a search, I think people said that they snap at 15 ft-lbs.
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The bolts are only $3-5 each.....trust me - go buy a couple to have on hand! Nothing says ****! like hearing one snap.....especially if it's your only car & you now have to go buy one
Oh yea - go buy a BFRM - rubber mallets work wonders on stuck valve covers!
Oh yea - go buy a BFRM - rubber mallets work wonders on stuck valve covers!
Yeah and make sure you get a manly 32oz. BFRM, not a wussie 24oz. You never want to be caught with not enough whack.
new sig
and never work on it while the motor is hot...thats why so many people break and strip the bolts. alum motors should always be cold when you torque anything on them.....
dave w
dave w
The valve cover does not use bolts. The cap <U>nuts</U> are torqued to 7.2 ft/lbs. as stated above.
There are also gaskets are under the cap nuts, might as well get new ones as you have the rest of the gaskets.
Torque the nuts to 5 ft/lbs first, then right rear, left front, etc. to 7.2 ft/lbs.
Spec from 1998 Helms
Merry Thanksgiving---> http://www.meilinkvision.com/misc/service.pdf
Modified by The Dude at 4:59 PM 11/5/2008
There are also gaskets are under the cap nuts, might as well get new ones as you have the rest of the gaskets.
Torque the nuts to 5 ft/lbs first, then right rear, left front, etc. to 7.2 ft/lbs.
Spec from 1998 Helms
Merry Thanksgiving---> http://www.meilinkvision.com/misc/service.pdf
Modified by The Dude at 4:59 PM 11/5/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah and make sure you get a manly 32oz. BFRM, not a wussie 24oz. You never want to be caught with not enough whack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha. Nice, 7 year's later that is still a good one.
Hahaha. Nice, 7 year's later that is still a good one.
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