ok this is what i did:

lube the threads
thread stud in by hand
hand tighten by allen key
drop the head on
lube upper threads
torque the nuts onto the head in the proper order in 20lb increments (washers installed)
final torque is at 70lbs

does this sound right or are the bolts gonna shimmy themselves out, killing the HG?

 

thats the correct way of doing it.

 

whew. thanks mang

 

I was told by someone to lube the top threads before installing the head and washers. I know on supra installs you have to sit the washers in place first otherwise you aren't going to get them in once the head is on.

Wouldn't this allow a bit of lube to get under the washer and give a somewhat inaccurate torque reading and possibly not allow the head to seal 100%? Just curious.

Oh ya... ARP rates the studs for 78-81ftlbs for the final torque by the way. Double check with the sheet because the specs do vary from applications.

edit: lube between the head/washer will not affect anything. I just called ARP and asked

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wouldn't this allow a bit of lube to get under the washer and give a somewhat inaccurate torque reading and possibly not allow the head to seal 100%? Just curious.
edit: lube between the head/washer will not affect anything. I just called ARP and asked </TD></TR></TABLE>

u want lube on all mating surfaces that experience friction, therefore eliminating the innacuracies the friction can cause, lube it all up!

 

a little moly under the nuts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a little moly under the nuts</TD></TR></TABLE>

that made me laugh. i have a dirty mind

 

i just had to replace my headgasket because i did the "handtight" install, when i pulled the head 4 studs turned 3-4 times before they even got snug. so i installed them the way earl said to , and now they are good to go.....double nut 15 ft/lbs
-jonny

 

That's exactly how I did my install, but I torqued to 65 ft./lbs. (5 over). But I've got a SOHC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonnyRocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i installed them the way earl said to , and now they are good to go.....double nut 15 ft/lbs
-jonny</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some of the new ARP's have hex heads so you can use a hex key (3/8" I believe). How do you torque using a hex key you ask? Chop 1" off of the key and slide it into a 5.5mm 3/8" drive socket. I've always done the double nut way but when you break the double nut sometimes you actually loosen the stud. The hex head method is fool proof and saves TONS of time.

 

very true anthony. it took about an hour to torque them all down , because the studs kept on backing out when i would break the double nut loose. so i would have to do them over again. i think next time ill just catch the mac or snap on man, and get a hex socket.
-jonathan

 

if you dont use arp moly lube you must increase the torque to compensate for friction loss, arp moly to 10w30 oil is 15ft/lbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!extra