TECH QUESTION: Rear Driver side Trailing arm install question
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 442
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From: Houston/El Paso, TX, USA
We had to change out the whole rear Trailing arm in the driver side. We installed it all perfectly. But i did not put that hub cap back on. We drove and that rear wheel locked up, it had this weird black, (oil looking), fluid everywhere with bits and peices of metal. It was very hot. Im confused on what happened. Were we suppost to grease the spindle. And if so how much grease and it did not say this anywhere in the helms manual. Also by the way the part we replaced was brand spaking new from the Dealer. PLEASE HELP

we replaced part picture 20/21, we had to change it b/c the rubber bushing in the front part of the arm was completely gone.
So what happened was the wheel locked up completely. They said we didnt impact the bearing or something. What does that mean, and it said nothing about this in the helm manual.
Modified by MiX at 3:06 AM 10/26/2004

we replaced part picture 20/21, we had to change it b/c the rubber bushing in the front part of the arm was completely gone.
So what happened was the wheel locked up completely. They said we didnt impact the bearing or something. What does that mean, and it said nothing about this in the helm manual.
Modified by MiX at 3:06 AM 10/26/2004
What exactly were you doing to your car that you had to replace the whole thing? When I did my rear disc swap, I didn't have to do anything with the spindles, just take out the whole disc/drum off and swap it over. Just for future reference if that helps. If you can post pics that would be a great help, as I don't know exactly what you are talking about at this point. Good luck though!
-Shane
-Shane
if you don't drive the nut down enough the bearing will not have enough pressure on it and it will overheat and destroy itself. Also there is a small indention on the end of the spindle. you need to use a center punch and drive the nut into it to lock it in place. if not it can back off and the same thing would happen. sounds like all you need is a new bearing! Hope I helped!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 442
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From: Houston/El Paso, TX, USA
hmm bearing, in that pic u cant buy just that peice correct, i would have to buy a whole new arm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't drive the nut down enough the bearing will not have enough pressure on it and it will overheat and destroy itself. Also there is a small indention on the end of the spindle. you need to use a center punch and drive the nut into it to lock it in place. if not it can back off and the same thing would happen. sounds like all you need is a new bearing! Hope I helped!</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is DEFINATELY not the solution to this problem.
The wheel bearings are not too loose., but too tight. You should tighten the axle nuts to the specified torque should be around 125 ft/lbs. To check the bearing free play you should use a dial indicator and adjust them to .002-.003" approximately. This is a general standard. Too loose or two tight is a surefire way to buy new wheel bearings. Good Luck!!!
that is DEFINATELY not the solution to this problem.
The wheel bearings are not too loose., but too tight. You should tighten the axle nuts to the specified torque should be around 125 ft/lbs. To check the bearing free play you should use a dial indicator and adjust them to .002-.003" approximately. This is a general standard. Too loose or two tight is a surefire way to buy new wheel bearings. Good Luck!!!
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no problem ...just tired of seeing people with simple problems get crappy information off honda-tech. Peace
Modified by sleepingEg8 at 5:48 PM 10/28/2004
Modified by sleepingEg8 at 5:48 PM 10/28/2004
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