I read in one post that someone wasnt running valve stem seals. What is the point to this? Wouldnt it let alot more oil into the head then into the cylinders?

 

The advantage would be that you would blind anyone behind you with a huge cloud of smoke...

 

Won't work. I'd like to see this post.

 

Let me know if you get it to work. That way I can take out my buddy's bad valve stem seals and he can save a couple hundred bucks on not replacing them. j/k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tremor86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read in one post that someone wasnt running valve stem seals. What is the point to this? Wouldnt it let alot more oil into the head then into the cylinders?</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure he just didn't cut his valve stems...like the Type R's are factory done?

 

we have this engine builders book for the GM 2.2L ecotec 4cyl engine at work and inside it details all the parts and assembly procedures they used to make the 900+hp turbo drag engine.

they specifically said that they run no valve stem seals in that particular head so they can get maximum valve lift without the retainer hitting and crushing the valve seal

again.......this is there all out 900+hp drag engine which probably gets re-built ever few passes down the strip.....so there is absolutely no sense in doing such a thing for a street car. don't even think about it......

 

Lots of older engines don't run valvestem seals, and got away with it just fine. Most the old TRs I played with used shitty umbrella seals, you pulled the valvecover and they were either fubar or a previous owner/mechanic hadn't bothered to replace them. On those engines it didn't matter much, aside from a plume of blue smoke on startup. I have seen a few TR straight 6 that had the tops of their valveguides machines to accept a GM seal, the guides on my 2.5 are set up for it but I never installed them.

But, I digress. I think you most definitely want valvestem seals in a Honda application, especially forced induction.

 

Hone each guide to each valve and it will work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

again.......this is there all out 900+hp drag engine which probably gets re-built ever few passes down the strip.....so there is absolutely no sense in doing such a thing for a street car. don't even think about it......</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ I agree. Seals are there for a reason.

 

It was on some thread about "earl" cheating or some ****... dont know anything about that situation. Just curious...

 

Some very high performance engines can get away with no valve seals but each valve guide has to be custom fit clearance wise.
The other thread was about putting nitromathane into your oil, pulling off the valve seals, letting the oil and nitro drip into the cylinder. To me, this is an ignorant idea on a 4 stroke engine but maybe it works in a 2 stroke engine somehow. No experience with that.

 

Nitromethane is a handy thing to blend with your water and surfactant in an electronic water injection setup - no more complaints about displacing volume better filled with fuel/oxygen. Defintely something you want to precisely meter, and not drip around guides, IMO.

Sorry for the OT blurb.