How much wheel arch clearance required on the track for suspension drop?
Hi guys!
Just wanting to know how much clearance would you "think" is required on the track.
Background:-
I'm about to install my spoon coil overs 14kg F /12kg R.
Now if I sit the car right down, the wheel arch rubs the tyre (215/50/16 Semi slick on TE-37 16x7 +43)
Height of tyre is approx 595mm
So I'm looking for any scientific calculation (opinion or experience) of how much clearance I should give the tyre as I don't want it to rub during a high cornering G maneuver
I read on the aj-racing.com site that for track they recommend the height of
595mm F and 590mm R to the wheel arch - which obviously I cannot do. As the tyre is 10mm taller than the stock radius I was thinking of giving it an approximate 10mm clearance (one finger space) but not sure if this will rub.
Let me know what you think!! :D
Just wanting to know how much clearance would you "think" is required on the track.
Background:-
I'm about to install my spoon coil overs 14kg F /12kg R.
Now if I sit the car right down, the wheel arch rubs the tyre (215/50/16 Semi slick on TE-37 16x7 +43)
Height of tyre is approx 595mm
So I'm looking for any scientific calculation (opinion or experience) of how much clearance I should give the tyre as I don't want it to rub during a high cornering G maneuver
I read on the aj-racing.com site that for track they recommend the height of
595mm F and 590mm R to the wheel arch - which obviously I cannot do. As the tyre is 10mm taller than the stock radius I was thinking of giving it an approximate 10mm clearance (one finger space) but not sure if this will rub.
Let me know what you think!! :D
My gut reaction is that you should put the car back to OEM height and work your way down gradually from there, taking into account just how much you want the car to rotate.
Are you using a camber kit on the front?
Are you using a camber kit on the front?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My gut reaction is that you should put the car back to OEM height and work your way down gradually from there, taking into account just how much you want the car to rotate.
Are you using a camber kit on the front?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey George, how's it going mate!
No camber kit yet (on their way). If I had the camber kit I wouldnt have to worry as the rub is only about 2mm onto the tyre (if only i bought a +45 offset!)
My stock heights
floor to centre of arch
F/R
610mm/615mm
620mm/625mm
so add 10mm for the larger radius im using ahhaha cumbersome I know. So lets say 625mm all round.
The good thing about having it lower eg. Right now I've got it around 605mm F and 620mm R on zeal 10kgF 6kg R - which i get just over -2 degrees camber. However the shocks are worn and this setup rubs in the rear (and sometimes front) so I can't judge the clearance I might need for the track.
Only problem is I might not have the adjustablitily when I'm down at the track on sunday (installing saturday) - and don't really want to try testing it on the street (being the responsible person I am
- so I'd like to get them as low as I can for this first time atleast
Are you using a camber kit on the front?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey George, how's it going mate!
No camber kit yet (on their way). If I had the camber kit I wouldnt have to worry as the rub is only about 2mm onto the tyre (if only i bought a +45 offset!)
My stock heights
floor to centre of arch
F/R
610mm/615mm
620mm/625mm
so add 10mm for the larger radius im using ahhaha cumbersome I know. So lets say 625mm all round.
The good thing about having it lower eg. Right now I've got it around 605mm F and 620mm R on zeal 10kgF 6kg R - which i get just over -2 degrees camber. However the shocks are worn and this setup rubs in the rear (and sometimes front) so I can't judge the clearance I might need for the track.
Only problem is I might not have the adjustablitily when I'm down at the track on sunday (installing saturday) - and don't really want to try testing it on the street (being the responsible person I am
- so I'd like to get them as low as I can for this first time atleast
depends on the surface of the track... if it is bumpy or has some turns that cause excessive wheel travel, rubbing will be more of an issue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on the surface of the track... </TD></TR></TABLE>
With the 400/500 springs I could throw enough tyre smoke in Rollercoaster that people would ask me about it.
With the 400/500 springs I could throw enough tyre smoke in Rollercoaster that people would ask me about it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euG3dc2r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No camber kit yet (on their way). </TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope you're not plagued by understeer until you get the camber kit.
At least with heavy fronts like that your rear end will not tend to fishtail quite as much when going into threshold braking after a long straight.
I hope you're not plagued by understeer until you get the camber kit.
At least with heavy fronts like that your rear end will not tend to fishtail quite as much when going into threshold braking after a long straight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope you're not plagued by understeer until you get the camber kit.
At least with heavy fronts like that your rear end will not tend to fishtail quite as much when going into threshold braking after a long straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spherical bearings for the LCA chassis mount + stiffer UCA bushings do wanders in keeping the camber deflection in check. Less static camber is required for consistent tire temp.
The orijin motorsports kit is even streetable...
http://www.orijinmotorsports.com
It works.
I hope you're not plagued by understeer until you get the camber kit.
At least with heavy fronts like that your rear end will not tend to fishtail quite as much when going into threshold braking after a long straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Spherical bearings for the LCA chassis mount + stiffer UCA bushings do wanders in keeping the camber deflection in check. Less static camber is required for consistent tire temp.
The orijin motorsports kit is even streetable...
http://www.orijinmotorsports.com
It works.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Spherical bearings for the LCA chassis mount + stiffer UCA bushings do wanders in keeping the camber deflection in check. Less static camber is required for consistent tire temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Matt, what kind of camber setting do you use?
Spherical bearings for the LCA chassis mount + stiffer UCA bushings do wanders in keeping the camber deflection in check. Less static camber is required for consistent tire temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Matt, what kind of camber setting do you use?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Currently in the -2.5 range in front...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you typically have a little more camber on the left side?
Do you typically have a little more camber on the left side?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no problems having sphericals on the front and OEM bushings on the rear?
It works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no problems having sphericals on the front and OEM bushings on the rear?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope you're not plagued by understeer until you get the camber kit.
At least with heavy fronts like that your rear end will not tend to fishtail quite as much when going into threshold braking after a long straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope :D quite neutral
The fishtailing I've dialed out using a little more toe-in in the Rear - This has also helped with turnin and high speed corner stability (Rear tends to stay tucked in rather than trying to break traction into oversteer :D)
Surface of the track is top quality :D but with more G's there'll be more squat
I hope you're not plagued by understeer until you get the camber kit.
At least with heavy fronts like that your rear end will not tend to fishtail quite as much when going into threshold braking after a long straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nope :D quite neutral
The fishtailing I've dialed out using a little more toe-in in the Rear - This has also helped with turnin and high speed corner stability (Rear tends to stay tucked in rather than trying to break traction into oversteer :D)
Surface of the track is top quality :D but with more G's there'll be more squat
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Spherical bearings for the LCA chassis mount + stiffer UCA bushings do wanders in keeping the camber deflection in check. Less static camber is required for consistent tire temp.
The orijin motorsports kit is even streetable...
http://www.orijinmotorsports.com
It works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....wowie!
I'm fast becoming a fan of the devil chicken.....
Spherical bearings for the LCA chassis mount + stiffer UCA bushings do wanders in keeping the camber deflection in check. Less static camber is required for consistent tire temp.
The orijin motorsports kit is even streetable...
http://www.orijinmotorsports.com
It works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....wowie!
I'm fast becoming a fan of the devil chicken.....
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