Well this is what i have Skunk 2 Stage 2; Springs, Retainers, Cams and Cam Gears all stock bottom end this is what happen i was on the freeway racing a civic with gsr motor and i was in 5th gear doing about 65 then i slammed it in to 3 then topped 3rd out but instead of goin in to 4th i put in in 2nd the car jerked really hard, rpms jumped pass 9 that i remember then i put it in neutral then i put it in 4th cruised it got off the freeway and the car sounds fine...then i drove it home ran ok but this morning went to start it up and when its warm the engine shakes. can anyone give any advice on this? should i take it to get a compression test?

 

Compression test probably will show a loss in at least one of the cylinders, due to a possible bent valve.

don't drive it any more until you can get it diagnosed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression test probably will show a loss in at least one of the cylinders, due to a possible bent valve.

don't drive it any more until you can get it diagnosed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup. it's almost the same thing that my cousin did with his DC5-S in the track... except his motor just didnt run anymore. he was lucky warranty paid for his engine fix

 

well should i just take it to the dealer and have them look at it? its still under warranty.. but what should i tell them what happen? do you think the will still pay for it even tho i have modified the engine?

 

Most Dealers will know the difference in miss-shifts and motor failures... I doubt any dealer will pass a miss-shift thru warranty these days... Unless you have a dealer that accepts your girl friend as a bribe

 

Everybody has AIDS...... AIDS AIDS AIDS...... AIDS AIDS AIDS....

 

can you tell by driving or just listening to the engine if there is a bent valve? or is there something different about it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression test probably will show a loss in at least one of the cylinders, due to a possible bent valve.

don't drive it any more until you can get it diagnosed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

By starting your motor with a possible problem like this your only putting more stress on the weaken motor and could cause more problems. Do the compression ck before anything else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuickTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well should i just take it to the dealer and have them look at it? its still under warranty.. but what should i tell them what happen? do you think the will still pay for it even tho i have modified the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read your warranty manual. Unfortunately, I think you are not within the limits of the warranty agreement in the cars present condition.

 

this happened to me. all i could say is stop street racing with these hatchcraps cuz it cost me to fix my motor. u def have a bent valve and they are prob ur exhaust valves. my clutch also blew on the mishift. just replace ur exhaust valves cuz they r prob shot.

 

If you are going to take it to the Honda dealership and try to get it covered under warranty (good luck), make sure you put the car as close to stock as possible.

When I got my transmission fixed they gave me a really hard time about the modifications I had on it.

Good luck and hope everything works out for the best.

 

the car runs fine but it has just a lil shake in it.. is compression the best way to check for a bent valve? or is there any other way.. will it hurt to drive it to the dealer to get tested? cause i have no truck to pull it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny98r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this happened to me. all i could say is stop street racing with these hatchcraps cuz it cost me to fix my motor. u def have a bent valve and they are prob ur exhaust valves. my clutch also blew on the mishift. just replace ur exhaust valves cuz they r prob shot. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No...well yeah, stop street racing and start learning proper shifting techniques...if you are grabbing and clenching the shifter, you're going to naturally pull towards you...the proper 3 to 4 shift is done by cupping your hand to the outside and pushing outward...to where you're guaranteed a 4th...

As quoted from MichaelDelaney on TI.net....

"it's all in the technique. if you hook the shiftknob on the right side with your hand, the tendency is to pull towards you as you pull back for the downshift and get 2nd instead of 4th.

if you cup the shiftknob on the left side of the **** and simultaneously push out (instead of pulling towards you) as you pull back for the downshift you'll be guaranteed to get 4th.

we do this in the racing dog gear Hewland gearboxes which require heel & toeing because they are synchroless.

you have to learn the basics of shifting for road racing because if you're fumbling to get into gears, you lose drive, start coasting, and the opposition will pass you or you'll lose lap time.

everyone should learn good shifting basics..."

 

Here are the results are taking the car to get a compression test..
#1 230
#2 220
#3 210
#4 200

the guys at SRD said it should be fine, but i still feel a lil difference but its ok for now will be doing a leak down test a lil later.

 

edit: im a dumbass i thought this was my thread

 

probably distributor problem.. rotor probably blown and its not gettin enough sparks.. just a thought

 

check your tranny for any noise . you could of also broken a motor mount for your engine to shake. Seems like you could of blew the head gasket also. You can check for a blown engine by just removing the oil cap on top of your valve cover and checking for blowby . If you see any smoke coming out of the cap you most likely have a problem.Going from 4th to second isn't something even a itr could handle . I reved my stock engine up to like 10500 a few times and it still has about 240 compression all the way across . But from 4th to 2nd would have to be like 15k . On worse case scenerio crank could be unbalanced . check your crank pulley see if its still has the key inside it. I blew my b16 and my crank pulley chipped part of the crank where the pulley hooks up to it. Well good luck with your motor. New block cost about 2500.00

 

back to ur warranty, If u have that topend like u said dealer would not touch it ,and if u have bent valves ,if u put ur stock **** back on u wouldnt have bent valves anymore, my buddy did the same thing in his gsr with s2s2 cams and valvetrain,all he did was **** up his ckp (code 4), in his distributor, u prolly fine ,just check all of ur mounts and stuff like the other guys said but good luck man. oh yea i paid 2grand for my brand new itr short block from falconi acura in vegas ,with a 1 year warranty, if u need 1 # is 1702-367-6400 ask for scott crocket,he will hook any one up