I've got a 2000 ITR stock, I red-lined 3rd into 2nd(assisted by a few distractions)

I've replaced the timing belt,distibutor cap,rotor button,NGKplugs&wires&pcv valve. Also im about to replace the valve cover gasket & fuel filter.
I'm recieving codes; (PO302) Cyl. 2 Misfire, (P0304) Cyl. 4 Misfire, (P0300) Random/Multiple Cyl. Misfire Detected, (P1399) Manfacurer Control Ignition System Or Misfire.
With the stuff i've already done, i've got alot of improvement.The engine seems to be running strong only that the valves are louder than normal.If i drive it, as soon as I let off the gas it dies,without driving it.
Any help would be very much appriciated.


Modified by encognito at 10:48 AM 10/18/2004


Modified by encognito at 12:14 AM 10/19/2004

 

Sounds like bent valves due to a mis-shift.

Do a leakdown & Compression test. Good luck.

 

I am not a mechanic but usually over-revving the engine results in damage to valves (and associated parts). So, everything that you did, doesn't really mean anything.

 

Compression check was;
Without Throttle Cyl.1=155, Cyl.2=115, Cyl.4=90
With A Drop Of Oil Cyl.2=127
Wide Open Throttle = (1,2,3,4)>(230,190,190,155)

What kind of valves do you think would be best to go with? OEM or .........
Im not sure of whether or not i want to go performance or not.everything else is stock as of now(except the after market parts listed above).


Modified by encognito at 11:11 AM 10/18/2004


Modified by encognito at 12:12 AM 10/19/2004

 

Time to take your car to a mechanic man. Your engine is toast. I'm currently in the process myself so I feel you pain. Have fun.

 

hey i just did the same thing i had code p0303, cylinder 3 misfire and that p1399 code which i couldnt find but now know thanks...i bent a couple vavles and cylinder 3 was pushin not even 50psi i tore my motor apart cause im gonna do a full rebuild and found cylinder 3 and 4 had gouges startin on the rod bearings....i also feel your pain

 

bump

 

i'd put all my eggs in one basket here. bent valves without a doubt. if you would really like to see wherein the problem lies do a leakdown test. if you dont have the proper tools:
-you can pay the 40-70 it will cost for a shop to do it
-you can try to get help from a local member
-you can just pull the head off and look at the bent valves and hope nothing fucked up on your bottom end.

but i would definately say you did a number on your head and will probly be paying upwards of $350 on repairs. (cleaning, new valves, seatwork, seals, mill, maybe some guides)

if you end up deciding to give the go ahead on the headwork to upgrade. let me know and i will give my opinion on what new parts should go back into the head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by encognito &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why are you bumping this thread? Are you waiting for some idiot to say your car is ok? You've bent valves, period. Now go pull the head and get them fixed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why are you bumping this thread? Are you waiting for some idiot to say your car is ok? You've bent valves, period. Now go pull the head and get them fixed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nah, the car's fine...keep driving it till the ticking goes away!

wee!

-Resident Idiot

 

skunk2 vs. OEM valves?

 

O/S or std size?

 

yeah cyl 4 is fux0r3d mang, rebuild time.