Ok, I in the middle of doing a ls/vtec conversion for a friend and I'm not getting vtec.

Its a stock 95LS w/b16 top end. I'm using a GE conversion kit (sandwich adapter, line and dowl pins).

so far I have:

Checked the vtec solinoid, cleaned it out and made sure every thing moves without too much effort. Verified the solinoid clicks when it is supplied 12v.

Removed all of the rocker arms and checked the lil pistons and springs for binding, everything moves without hassle.

Replaced all of the o-rings on the oil control orifices and the one that goes under the middle cam cap.

Ran a clip on the Vtec solinoid to verifiy it is getting power when it is supposed to.

The only thing I haven't/can't check is the oil pressure at the vtec solinoid.

Other than that I am at my wits end...

Is there anything else that would keep the vtec from working?

 

what kind of ecu?
check oil pressure

 

Its a chipped p72 (uberdata) I disabled knock and the pressure switch. I dont have a pressure gauge to check the oil pressure.

 

well get one(oil psi gauge)

 

yeah I think I'll pick one up today to check it with.

I'll just tap into the conversion line from the GE adapter.

How much of a pressure drop should there be when vtec engauges?

I'm wondering if there is some sort of pressure loss in the vtec system, like a leak in the head..... grabbing for straws here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I think I'll pick one up today to check it with.

I'll just tap into the conversion line from the GE adapter.

How much of a pressure drop should there be when vtec engauges?

I'm wondering if there is some sort of pressure loss in the vtec system, like a leak in the head..... grabbing for straws here.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

about 5 psi drop
if you check by the vtec sol. it should be 50+ psi

 

Ok, I ran the engine @3000rpm and jumpped a wire from the battery. It sounded as if it was trying to engauge, but lacked the oil pressure to lock the vtec pins in. Instead of bogging, it just started to give off alot of clicking noise.

I'm thinking he is going to need a vtec oil pump bucause the LS pump is just not getting the right pressure/volume needed.

Does that sound about right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I ran the engine @3000rpm and jumpped a wire from the battery. It sounded as if it was trying to engauge, but lacked the oil pressure to lock the vtec pins in. Instead of bogging, it just started to give off alot of clicking noise.

I'm thinking he is going to need a vtec oil pump bucause the LS pump is just not getting the right pressure/volume needed.

Does that sound about right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, the ls pump should have more than enough pressure to engage vtec, it could just be bad though.

 

Ok it works now..... as to what fixed it I have no idea....

I picked up an adapter: -6AN female/-6AN male/1/8npt
and a pressure gauge.

I wanted to check the oil pressure going to the head from the GE sandwich adapter.

When I went to unhook the line (-6AN) from the head I noticed that there was absolutely no oil residue. It was really strange. So I went ahead and connected the fittings to see if there was any oil pressure.

When I started the car it was getting good oil pressure, so I revved it up to 3000rpms or so and jumped a wire to the vtec solenoid. The car bogged like it should. I could defiantly hear the pins locking into place with a solid click.

The only thing I can think of was maybe there was an air pocket in the oil system... but it doesn’t make much since to me why disconnecting that line fixed it.

Oh well, I'll just take it out for a long drive tomorrow and make sure it isn’t an intermittent problem.

Thanks for the replies.